1. Wonderful episode, I’ve been looking forward to seeing the housed dovetail joint for the frame since the first time I saw it in the intro. What looks like a very complicated joint when broken down into Paul’s easy bite sized pieces is revealed to be much more straightforward than I anticipated!

  2. The project was going to last longer (in number of weeks) than we thought appropriate, so we decided to treat you with longer episodes. So it will vary depending on what suits the series. Hope that works for everyone.

    1. Hello Philip,
      I realize it’s been six years since this series & the above comment but personally I much prefer the more frequent long videos/large projects. I especially have enjoyed the ‘Jointer’s Toolbox’ series & the ‘Occasional Table’ series where Paul does his excellent forensic inspection of an old or antique piece & remakes it. It’d be awesome if you guys could do more videos like those.
      That being said, I am never disappointed with any of the videos or series you guys produce. Masterclasses is such an amazing resource & I’ve learned so much as my woodworking has improved. Many thanks to all involved. -Derek

    1. He uses one for the tails to help keep them square, and you can then use the guide for the other three corners. You could use one when cutting the pins, but wouldn’t be able to re-use for the other corners. Don’t think it’s essential to use one at all, it’s just another technique to help, particularly while learning. Hope that helps.

      1. Thanks Adam, your thoughts do clear things up a bit, but Paul did make it seem that it was essential per tail cut. But I do see that each pin is a individual negative of its tail-spacing.

  3. I think I got my answer involving the lack of use of the pine backerboard when cutting the pins. When going back over the instruction Paul states that the pins tend to be too tight with his exact methods and thus precludes the use of such a board. However, I do still see the possible need of the board to help maintain the squareness of the pin shoulders.

  4. Does anyone know why the cross rail is housed in a dado, instead of just making a dovetail to attach the rail? I was just wondering if there was a structural reason for this or a matter of style/personal choice.
    I recently applied this joint in a project and had fun making it, but just wondered what the added value was of the dado…

    1. Robert, IMHO the addition of the dado adds better support for the cross rail as well as keeping it square to the case over time. The drawer that sides above this rail will more than likely be pretty heavy when loaded with tools. That drawer will also be pulled out to full extension quite often. The dado gives the rail that little extra support to sustain the weight and torsion that it will be subjected to. Plus its just a cool little exercise in joinery.

  5. Anyway there can ever be a short video or so on nothing but setting up dovetails? I noticed how on one board the straight line went on top the next it went on the side…or maybe there is somewhere I can go online?

  6. The housed dovetail joint is so cool. These videos are really gems. What at first seems almost impossible when you first see it becomes actually “do-able” after Paul breaks it down into understandable steps and with careful layout. I love these!

    1. Go with the 2 1/4″ in the cut-list otherwise the sizes don’t quite add up. I will change it in the video asap. If it’s already too late and all your stock is cut to size, your bottom drawer front may be too narrow. and you may have to plane the extra width off the bottom rim of the box to make up for it. Sorry for any inconvenience.

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