37 Comments

  1. Nicholas Newble on 15 December 2017 at 11:03 am

    Very timely release of the fourth episode, as I’m just finishing the mortises. Are there any major advantages of using a haunched tenon on that top rail as opposed to the shoulder cut shown here?

    Production, lighting and camera work great again too.

    • david o'sullivan on 15 December 2017 at 6:31 pm

      the hunch provides integrity to the joint

    • ads king on 15 December 2017 at 6:40 pm

      I was thinking the same. The old YT workbench videos show the haunched tenon and the plans for this bench show it as an option. Would be nice to know why this shoulder? Type tenon has been chosen instead.

      • Stefano Passiglia on 16 December 2017 at 9:35 am

        The haunch helps prevent twisting. You still have a wide tenon surface, but with less end grain movement that could make the tenon cup, or warp. So it prevents tenon integrity with a smaller surface. Same reason why in some cases for very large tenon surfaces, you split the tenon in two.
        The top rail is the one carrying the load so it is imperative it is strong and stable.
        There’s no need to haunch the bottom rail tenon as it is a through tenon and its purpose is to keep the legs together

        • Stefano Passiglia on 16 December 2017 at 9:36 am

          “it prevents tenon integrity” should read “it preserves tenon integrity”

        • Nicholas Newble on 16 December 2017 at 12:13 pm

          Thanks – looks like I’ll probably make mine haunched then as per the optional bit in the downloadable plans.

    • Stefano Passiglia on 16 December 2017 at 9:37 am

      The haunch helps prevent twisting. You still have a wide tenon surface, but with less end grain movement that could make the tenon cup, or warp. So it preserves tenon integrity with a smaller surface. Same reason why in some cases for very large tenon surfaces, you split the tenon in two.
      The top rail is the one carrying the load so it is imperative it is strong and stable.
      There’s no need to haunch the bottom rail tenon as it is a through tenon and its purpose is to keep the legs together

    • Philip Adams on 18 December 2017 at 4:58 pm

      Hi Nicholas,
      Paul said that a haunched tenon was not necessary in this case as it doesn’t add significant strength for this purpose.

      • Nicholas Newble on 18 December 2017 at 6:47 pm

        Thanks for checking that – I have decided I will use one but more as an exercise in seeing how it works as my first project.

    • Michael Ostrander on 24 December 2017 at 7:55 am

      You’re installing a 4″ or 5″ tenon through a 4″ mortise. Adding a haunch here would just be an exercise. It would add very little strength to this already massive joint.

  2. Tassos on 15 December 2017 at 11:06 am

    Thanks Paul!

  3. laurence on 15 December 2017 at 11:56 am

    As always, great real life instructional video!
    Thanks Paul!

  4. ruben verschueren on 15 December 2017 at 12:28 pm

    I’m looking foward to start building mine during the hollidays. I am going to incorporate a removable tool holder to have that roubo style clamping option of the split top. And I’ll probably be adding a leg vise wit a wooden screw and an end vise.
    It’s only about the fifth design so it might still change 😁.
    Thanks for another great video.

  5. James Ortaliz on 15 December 2017 at 12:35 pm

    I noticed on your hand router that you have a jig attached to it. Is there any better woods to us to make this jig?

    Thank you

    • Philip Adams on 15 December 2017 at 12:43 pm

      Hello James, something durable and dense that doesn’t mark the wood you are working on, for example sapele.

  6. /Roger Dickinson on 15 December 2017 at 1:51 pm

    Hi Paul,
    I have been following your new bench series and have also been getting to grips with your new method of making m & t joints using the router plane. I am wondering if the router plane method could be applied to the bench construction, or do you think that the tenons are too big for this? I have also wondered about using a scrap piece of stretcher material to support the free end of the router during tenon reducing operations so as to avoid the router plane end swinging free. (Your employment of the bench plane on the tenon ends slightly frightens me!) I am enjoying these videos so much!

    • Bas Cost Budde on 16 December 2017 at 9:45 am

      supporting the router past your workpiece needs the support to be exactly in the same plane as the workpiece face. I frequently find that hard to realize. Pauls method with the bench plane, guided by the router groove and the knife/gauge marks on all sides is so reliable and so achievable, I never reached for the elongaters anymore.

  7. Keith Walmsley on 15 December 2017 at 2:26 pm

    Hi! What length are the saws used in this video?

    Thank you.

  8. Randall Cates on 15 December 2017 at 2:58 pm

    Paul,
    Thank you. As always, a very well done presentation. I’m looking forward to building a new workbench myself in the near future. I do have a question tho. When it came time to surface plane the rail, you picked up one plane then switched it with another. And when you were adjusting it it looked like it was your scrub plane based on the appearance of the blade in the throat. Is that correct? And did you have a particular reason for choosing that one?

    • Mohyudin Dingle on 19 December 2017 at 3:52 am

      I’d guess he was choosing between the Stanley #4 smoother and the #4 set up as a scrub plane

    • Philip Adams on 19 December 2017 at 2:04 pm

      Hello Randall, it was indeed a scrub plane that is used first to remove a lot of stock, then the smoothing plane is used to refine the surface.

  9. steve Eastwood on 15 December 2017 at 4:36 pm

    Hi Paul, enjoying your new series you make it look so easy, practice makes it so I’d guess.
    Just one question, “what happened to the split that was appearing at the end of the mortise as you neared
    Completion”.
    Please keep the good ideas flowing and a merry Christmas to you and the team.

  10. Ecky H on 15 December 2017 at 4:49 pm

    Many thanks for that great video and in particular for the valuable hints to fit the tenon in the mortise – with the router plane.
    That helps a lot in my next steps prior to build the workbench: work on small saw horses (perhaps they’re better called “saw ponies” 😉 ).

  11. Dennis O'Shea on 15 December 2017 at 8:52 pm

    Every time I watch you work I am in Awe of your skills .I have one question how many times did you have to sharpen the chisels in cutting all those mortises ? Again just a fantastic series and many thanks

  12. Bob Hutchins on 16 December 2017 at 3:20 am

    Best Wishes for a Happy Christmas and a Joyous and Prosperous New Year!

    As always, your videos are a wonder to watch. You impart information in so many different ways without seemingly thinking about the teaching aspect. It’s as if teaching is part of your nature in all you do. Marvelous to see!

    At about the 9 min 30 second mark in this video you mention that your layout will be true if your square is true and registered on the correct sides. Of course this is true, but it would be helpful if you expanded on this a bit and showed how to test that a square is truly square, and what to do if it is not (provided, of course that the error is correctable). This would make a good subject for a short video lesson.

    All the best,
    Bob from central Texas

  13. Brian Miller on 16 December 2017 at 5:19 am

    Watched this at 5 am (South Dakota time) now I’m back at 11 pm watching again. Can’t get enough of this.

  14. Christopher Dennis on 16 December 2017 at 12:43 pm

    Great to see you using on the Workmate and along with a basic set of hand tools this really is a build that ‘Everyman’ can follow.

  15. pomme on 17 December 2017 at 1:36 am

    My eyes keep getting drawn to the offset brickwork to the left of the picture near the copper down pipe.
    No miss alignment with the perfect fitting mortise and tenon joint.

  16. JDLG on 18 December 2017 at 4:02 am

    Is there a reason for using the router plane rather than a shoulder plane? Are they interchangeable for trimming the tenon? Is one better than the other?

    • ballinger on 18 December 2017 at 11:23 pm

      It’s about a minimal set of tools. It’s a way of eliminating the need to buy a shoulder plane. But if you happen to have one then use it 😀. The advantage of a shoulder plane is that you could save a little time prepping your stock. You could flatten one face and edge to register your layout lines. Then on the side that hasn’t been prepped you could use a shoulder plane because it doesn’t rely on the rail being coplanar to the tenon cheeks.

      • Larry Geib on 19 December 2017 at 1:34 am

        Two different functions.

        a router registers against the face of the work. It is primarily used to dress the tenon cheek.

        A shoulder plane isn’t named a cheek plane. It was designed to dress the shoulders.

    • Philip Adams on 19 December 2017 at 2:09 pm

      The router plane is indeed used to give a guaranteed distance from the outside face, so you get a centred, even width tenon.

  17. millermj on 9 January 2018 at 2:19 am

    Hi. You center the mortise gage to center the tennon. With hand tools, each rail will be slightly different. Do you recenter the gage on every rail or is it “close enough”?

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