The final part of the construction process is to hinge the lid to the box. Paul shows how to scotch the hinges, fits a stay and then then applies a shellac finish.
Paul cuts the joinery for the lid frame and fits the panel. Once glued up, the haunches are removed and the lid is shaped ready for hinging.
We’re ready to fit a bottom into the cabinet, starting with the support rails. Then the bottom is cut to size and trim fitted. Once the rear hinge rail is fitted the carcass is ready to receive the lid.
Paul has decided to glue up the carcass in two stages, starting with the end frames and using alignment pieces to keep everything square. Then the whole carcass is glued together, taking special care to ensure all the joints seat making combined use of the clamp and hammer.
Once all of the panels and frames are together, Paul refines the shape of the legs. Then the bottom rails are arched to tie them in with the shaped legs.
The wood for the panel is selected then jointed and glued up. Once dry, the panel is scraped and cut to size before being chamfered and fitted to the frame.
With the rail stock selected, Paul cuts the grooves, being careful to avoid tearout, then cuts and fits the tenons into the leg mortises.
There are grooves to put in the legs to accept the panel. Paul shows a couple of tips to avoid tear-out when ploughing the grooves, then lays out and cuts the mortises.
We’re ready to get started with the blanket chest. With the stock chosen and prepared, Paul starts with the initial shaping of the legs.
Blanket chests, also known as hope chests in the USA, were used for storing valued items as well as bulky duvets, quilts and blankets, but you might also use them to store and protect many other family possessions such as photo albums, childrens toys, crafting supplies or indeed your collection of woodworking tools.