Blanket Chest: Episode 7

Blanket Chest Episode 7 Keyframe

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We’re ready to fit a bottom into the cabinet, starting with the support rails. Then the bottom is cut to size and trim fitted. Once the rear hinge rail is fitted the carcass is ready to receive the lid.

10 Comments

  1. ehisey on 10 May 2018 at 2:43 am

    Team-
    What would you suggest for a non-plywood bottom? Tounge and groove or maybe ship lapped planks like the tool chest seem a little weak on the middle boards, but another panel’n’frame peice does not seem quite right either.

    I try to avoid plywood for personal projects. I used it a lot of it professionally and was just never fond of it.

    • harry wheeler on 10 May 2018 at 5:33 am

      I’m using 3/4″ aromatic cedar for mine. Just a plain T&G flat panel, nothing fancy. Over such a narrow width, that will be extremely strong. My box and panels are hard maple and the lid will be birds eye in either a hard maple or wormy maple frame. Not sure on the frame yet but I have to make a decision pretty quick. I’m gluing up the box tomorrow.

      This project has been a lot of fun. And I’ve learned to hate my Stanley 45 on a whole different level! Seriously, that evil thing has a mind of it’s own at times, but Paul really came up with a nice design – those legs are awesome.

    • Philip Adams on 11 May 2018 at 4:16 pm

      Paul says that ship lapped, tongue and groove, or a solid board as long as it is stable in moisture content and not a wood prone to excess expansion and contraction should all work just fine.

    • Farred on 11 May 2018 at 11:38 pm

      I used frame/panel for mine, topped with 1/4 aromatic cedar. Remember, it must be thick enough for a 3-year old to jump up and down on, because that is a distinct possibility.

    • ehisey on 12 May 2018 at 1:44 am

      Thanks all. Seems like a good place to try some tounge and groove then.

    • Paul Round on 29 September 2022 at 1:26 pm

      If you are going to use a none engineered wood for the bottom make sure it is cut for a loose fit to cope with expansion. For a small chest like this a 1/2″ T&G or ship lap would be plenty strong enough just make sure it has room to move.

  2. robdavies on 7 January 2019 at 6:48 pm

    Hello all,
    I’m finally at the stage of fitting the bottom to my chest. I was intending on using 18 mm plywood for the bottom but it’ll have to be 4ft long by 15 inches wide to span the distance I need. I’m a little concerned that this may not be strong enough and I’m also wandering if anybody has any recommendations on a minimum size I would need to use for the supports that’ll hold the bottom. I want to make sure it’ll be strong enough as my girlfriends intending on stowing her workout stuff in it so will have to hold dumbbells, medicine balls etc, so quite a bit of weight.

  3. Jim Thornton on 8 January 2019 at 3:12 am

    If there are cleats to support the plywood along the length (which there should be) then you’re only talking about spanning 15″. If you have a piece of good quality 18mm plywood the size you need, then support it along the long edges and pile 200-300 lbs on it and see if you get any flex. I’d be surprised if you get any. I would think 18mm thick cleats of whatever width you have room for should be plenty.

  4. MARK POULSON on 1 October 2022 at 11:04 pm

    Paul,
    In the last month, I have experienced swelling and stiffness in my left thumb’s joint, to the point where I can no longer bend it more than half way without pain. My Dr. says it’s the result of years of “abuse”, when I hit the wrong nail, leading to calcification in the joint.
    Considering I was able to work on the job as a residential carpenter for forty years, I consider myself lucky that this hasn’t happened until now.
    So I can understand what you’re going through.
    Be well, and stay safe.
    Mark

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