The last part of the construction is to fit the lock down lattice. First it is hinged and then the teardrop and stop are fixed in place to add solidity and security. Once it has been sanded and necessary refinements made, the finish is applied.
The last element of the stepladder is the top lock down lattice. Once the mortises and tenons have been cut, it can be glued up. The horns are cut off and a wear plate is fitted.
The back frame is checked against the front frame. Then, once Paul has repaired a blemish, it is shaped. With the frames complete, the trestle hinges can be fitted.
We’re ready to layout the back frame, marking the cross rails for the angled tenons. Then a guide is used to cut the mortise holes and the rear frame comes together.
Once the steps have been finessed, the wedged aspect of the top and bottom steps is prepared. Then the front frame can be glued up, with the wedging closing up any gaps. Then it just needs cleaning up.
The next step is to layout, cut and fit the tenons on the top and bottom step.
With the locations of the housing dadoes established, they can be marked and cut, with care being payed to the angled aspects. Once they have been cut, the mortises can be laid out and cut.
Paul starts by talking through his materials and the design features using the prototype and drawings. Then the project is laid out on a storyboard to get the exact positioning and angles required. This can then be transferred onto the stock in preparation for the joinery.
Stepladders made from wood have almost disappeared, but not because they don’t work or work well. Paul introduces a design he has developed which includes key features to enhance stability, usability and long term durability. A real lifetime ladder that you will enjoy making as much as having around the house and workshop.