problem with veritas tenon saw..
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Tagged: Veritas Saws
- This topic has 30 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 3 years, 8 months ago by Sven-Olof Jansson.
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15 August 2020 at 11:49 am #674064
Took the plunge and have ordered three of the buggers a standard dovetail, crosscut carcass and rip tenon. In for a penny in for a lot of pounds 200+ of the buggers, ouch! Read so many reviews and everybody rates the Veritas saws even up against the more expensive brass backed saws. What I need now is an appropriate file or files to touch them up as per Paul recommends, and ideas as to what I will need? I’ve been using Irwin disposable saws for quite a few years but once they lose there edge you can’t get them back I’ve tried. I had a Barracuda panel saw and the handle snapped off halfway though sawing a sheet of 18 mm ply I replaced it with an Irwin which has a much sturdier handle. I don’t do much large work and have a Triton saw bench with rails now so I can cut up to the full 8 x 4 sheets accurately. I recommend them they fold up quite small and can be tucked under the bench.
15 August 2020 at 1:03 pm #674071Here’s a link to a page that to me clarifies much of the riddle around saw files.
http://badaxetoolworks.com/files.php
(These saw files are available in Europe as well.)
Personally, I’m quite undecided on whether I prefer my Lie-Nielsen cross-cut saw or the the Veritas one, which has a less aggressive rake angle. As for the rip tenon saws, I think The Veritas’ compromise of 9 tpi and 14° rake angle is a good one, when I compare with Lie-Nielsen 11 tpi 0° rake angle. The Lie-Nielsen one makes for faster sawing, but woe betide me if I stray out of the intended line. The Veritas saws gives just a tad of wiggle room
Perhaps give them a go as they come?
15 August 2020 at 2:33 pm #674081I probably would get on better with the easier to use Veritas as I’m use to cheap saws and am a bit ham fisted. I’m looking forward to using them. I have a veritas router plane and it is a joy to use as long as you keep it sharp which is quite easy to do thanks to the detachable blade. One day I might even be able to stretch to a LA Jack plane for shooting I currently use a Stanley 5 1/2 which is just about OK as long as I keep it Brazilian sharp and take the finest of shavings. Have you ever tried or heard of anyone trying alternate rip then cross cut teeth i.e 2 rip then a pair crosscut… Just a thought.
16 August 2020 at 8:23 pm #674255Mark Harrell of Bad Axe Tool Works recommends what he calls a hybrid cut: a 10° rake angle and 12.5° fleam. Attach a link to a document where he discusses this filing.
http://www.badaxetoolworks.com/Filing.php
Alternating rip-cut and cross-cut, I worry would increase the tear out when ripping and reduce efficacy with perhaps as much as 50%
16 August 2020 at 9:41 pm #674270Interesting makes sense though. He sums it up though everyone has their own opinion and what might be good for hard woods is not necessary good for soft woods. I checked out their saws GULP. I’ll just keep it simple and touch up the first inch or so to make it easier to start the cut but I’ll try them out of the box first. I tried this on an old gents saw 19 tpi I have and it was noticeable.
17 August 2020 at 8:16 pm #674364Each to their own is the best aspect of woodworking.
Not being a friend of refurbishing (dead clumsy), I convinced myself that a bespoke D8 replica could be justified. And, it is a very good saw, though those with the talent and skills will of course achieve equally good ones by refurbishing a vintage saw.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.17 August 2020 at 10:41 pm #674385£400 for a saw phew I’d frame it and hang it on the wall over the fireplace and get it insured. I got a 22″ Irwin throw away it tears through everything I’ve thrown at it so far with a good results, I cut an 8 X 4 inch oak sleeper in half to get it in my car a few days ago, took a while. I’m hoping to split it down the middle on the Triton 2000 by cutting it from both sides, might need to dig out the Irwin for the bit in the middle. Hoping to get it down to nine good 1″ X 2″ planks for a to replace the planks in a garden bench I picked up, the wooden planks have rotted but the cast iron ends are sound. The original wood is strange it looks like a light grey coloured oak with a dense grain but is incredibly light in weight not sure what it is.
18 August 2020 at 4:47 pm #674507The dovetail and the carcass saws turned today. Now I understand why people are willing to pay for quality saws, amazed at the difference. Not sure if paying any more would make any difference these are so much better than I have ever used.
18 August 2020 at 11:53 pm #674552One of the issues with testing with construction wood would be the high moisture content. Here kilns dried construction materials technically just means moisture content was brought down to 19%, though some kilns dry to as little as 12%.
The purpose there is to prevent the formation of mold, which doesn’t grow below 19%, and to kill bugs in the Wood, which will die in and hour at 160°F.
Saws for fresh construction material need more set than in dry wood like S4S hardwoods that are brought down to 5%.
19 August 2020 at 12:13 am #674555I just drove down to Lee Valley in Victoria (BC) and bought the pair of big Veritas tenon saws. I have only given them a small test in alder and maple. No problems; yes, I like them. A lot.
19 August 2020 at 12:33 am #674559I might mention that the blades (Veritas tenon saws) are made in Japan and have a hybrid tooth pattern. I first bought the rip tenon saw, and took a look at it when I got to the car. I thought it had been mis-labeled. It looked like it had crosscut pattern teeth. So I took it back inside, and asked to see the crosscut version. The teeth were different than on the rip tenon saw, and I thought: “Then that’s just how the Japanese like them.” I returned the single saw, and bought the two together, and saved $43.00 plus tax against the cost of buying them separately.
Currently, I am building gate frames of two-by four material, and found making half-lap cuts with a router was much too tedious to get set up, subject to error, noisy, dusty, and after each cut, count my fingers. Using hand saws, I feel, will be faster and safer.19 August 2020 at 5:56 am #674594Hand sawing will no doubt get you there, but as a hybrid tool user (hand and power), I will stand up for the power router here and say that if you took two offcuts of your two by four (a couple inches different in length), a scrap of plywood secured across the top, you have a jig which, in combination with a guide bushing would give you regular and repeatable finishing of the joints. (Assuming of course that you have the appropriate sized router bit to hand.)
Make the shoulder cut, split off the majority of the waste, finish with the router. All operations performed on the work piece without having to remove it from the vise / workmate and re-orient.
I also remember making lap joints for a swing set I built using a tracksaw, track and miter fence. Lots of kerfs, then finish with a chisel.
So, now I will let folks get back to talking about saws 🙂
Lets not let this become a hand tool / power tool fight (if you want that, start a different thread please). -
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