Turning Saw Build
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- This topic has 78 replies, 23 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 2 months ago by Greg Merritt.
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30 December 2013 at 7:38 pm #24836
Thanks Florian, that bow saw looks great! You need to get the blade installed and post your thoughts on it.
Thanks guys! It’s made from larch and the blade is just some spring steel from a roll. I’ll get my files ready as soon as the christmas holidays are over 😉
The bandsaw blades are a smarter solution since they will let you start sawing as soon as the frame is completed.30 December 2013 at 10:30 pm #24844Greg that saw looks really nice, I like it and would love to make one myself. I have a Woodcraft a little over an hour from where I live may have to take a ride and check to see if they have a clearance table. Their wood price’s IMO is normally pretty high. I like the pattern you made is this your design?
Steve
Greg,
I’ve built a couple of these and find the finish nails distort quite a bit with use, making them hard to remove later.
I’ve gone to using roll pins which are a lot harder and hold up better. Generally available at most hardware stores in various diameters and lengths.
Best,
Craig30 December 2013 at 10:54 pm #24848Thanks Steve…I’ve been all over Woodcrafts website and can find no listing for the handle kit. So I don’t know where they got it from. I can’t guarantee what your local Woodcraft might have. Woodcraft is headquartered and the main shipping warehouse is here in my hometown. That means that all overstock and returns make there way to the local retail store.
Thanks for the tip Craig. Do you just rely on friction to hold them in until tension is applied? What wood have you used for your saws? Pros/cons?
Greg,
The handle/blade holder setup is different on the saws I built.
You are using slotted brass rods which hold the blade in a slot, fastened with a pin.
For that I don’t know if you’ll be able to find a small enough roll pin to fit.I have a small Marples turning saw that uses the same setup and the pins are soft and distort a little, but not too bad. Maybe Piano wire? but it’s hard to cut without really good nippers.
For the saws I’ve built I used a different handle design that has a slotted dowel run thru the uprights and into the handle knob…for those I used a 1/16″ roll pin to hold the blade.
I’ve used Oak, Cherry for the uprights and always Pine for the stretcher for lightness.
Best,
Craig1 January 2014 at 10:56 pm #25000OK, I’m calling this one done. It turned out pretty well, I think. Finished shaping, sanding and added an oil finish. I ended up using a broken drill bit shank for the pins to secure the blade. The saw cuts really well. The blade that I made from a bandsaw blade works better than the one that came in the kit. The turning radius is what you would expect with a 3/8″ wide blade. Thanks for looking.
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