Workbench Dimensions
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Tagged: modern 2x4 or rough cut
- This topic has 83 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 4 years, 4 months ago by Mark68.
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29 July 2018 at 1:53 pm #549676
Mark, if that’s the wood for the aprons, it should be a common size used in construction for floor joists, stair stringers, etc. and those dimensions aren’t critical by any means. In the US, we would call it a 2×12 with actual dimensions of 1.5″ x 11.25″. The shortest 2×12’s we can get are normally 8′ so if I were doing it I would buy a 12′ board to make both aprons. You shouldn’t have a problem finding this at any lumber yard that supplies construction lumber.
To clarify, it is for the aprons.
I’ve just found a timber merchant that cuts wood to size (in the UK)
http://www.hancockandbrown.com/timber_products_cut_to_size.php
At least they let you type in exact measurements.
Perhaps it’ll be cheaper if I do a search for stair stringers.
Thanks (again) Harry.
The above company can only do the size I want with German carcassing wood and they said that’s quite difficult to plane.
The apron dimensions are: T 40mm x W 290mm x L 1680
How important is it that the apron thickness is 40mm as Paul recommends? I ask because I can buy the wood I require but it’ll be 45mm thickness. It’s only an extra 5mm but do you think that will render the aprons too heavy?
30 July 2018 at 12:39 pm #549692That won’t make any difference Mark. Use anythig from 38 to 45mm and you’ii be fine.
At about the one minute mark in the following video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycflZ6cE-vM
After setting the gauge carefully and precisely to the width of the chisel he will be using, Paul then proceeds to guesstimate where the two pins will be so that they are centred in the piece of wood he is working on.
My question is, after setting the pins to the correct width for the chisel, won’t moving one of the pins around so the mortise gauge is centred in the wood, mean that you lose that correct width for the chisel?
2 August 2018 at 12:02 am #549784I see Paul maintaining pressure on the brass bar with his thumb so the two pins don’t move in relation to each other when he moves the wooden beam.
Pretty standard. If you fear the pins might move, there are mortise gauges where the pins distance is set with a screw.
I was hoping someone might be able to show me where the ‘bearer’ is on Paul’s workbench diagram. I’m making my bench slightly longer and wider so I need to cut the timber to the appropriate size. I’ve done so with the benchtop and aprons but I’m not sure what a ‘bearer’ is and whether or not it too needs to be longer or wider to accommodate the different size of my workbench.
I’ve included two pics of the bench.
EDIT: I found them 🙂
- This reply was modified 5 years, 8 months ago by Mark68.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 8 months ago by Mark68.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.Was hoping for a bit of reassurance.
I’ve just noticed my workbench top is bowed 🙁
Top pic is the opposite end of the workbench and it’s nice and level.
Middle pic is the other end of the workbench and it’s obviously not level. I think it might be due to the split between the wood.
Last pic, I’ve inserted/glued a sliver of wood to hopefully stop the wood from wanting to close together, as that is what I think it causing the bowing.
Do I need to be worried, have I sorted it before it gets too bad, is it even due to that split?
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