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21 March 2020 at 1:03 am #653895
@Sven-Olof Jansson, You are very observant. Yes, south east use would be close. I’m in Turbaco Colombia, near Cartagena. As for the Royal Enfield, love that bike!
I have a Japanese dovetail saw, 24 teeth, very narrow kerf. I failed to mention the curve is full thickness of the board. The Botton has the same raised gap as the top.
I think what I’m going to do is like you suggested and others did to, is cut the glue line. It’s only 5 inches or less. Glue and clamp.
Thanks to you and everyone else for the replies.
Gary19 March 2020 at 11:34 pm #653772Last idea I have. I just don’t know if any of my ideas are good or if there is a “professional” way of mending this.
Last idea. Drill a hole slightly smaller than the thickness of a finish nail starting on the low board side and 45 degree into the raised board while it is clamped into place.. Cut the nail so it won’t go all the way through the wood and counter sink the head of the nail. Then use glue and dust to fill the hole opening. I thought about using a wood dowel, but then thought if this wood has that much strength to bend, it might just split the dowel in two, but the nail, maybe 8p, would have a lot of strength.
Advise? I really don’t want to screw this table up, it turned out so nice.
19 March 2020 at 10:44 pm #653767While having a cup of coffee and staring at this joint problem I came across and idea. Take my smallest drill bit and drill 3 maybe 4 holes along the split at a 45 degree angle running with the split. Then using a syringe shoot some glue in the holes, move the board down to position and let it up and do that a few times to spread the glue. Then fill the holes with glue and dust and clamp it level again. Let sit for 2 days.
Or should I do as above with the drill and glue and then after moving the board the 1mm a few times with a clamp to try to spread the glue inside, then just clamp it in the natural position (raised) and let it set for a couple days, then plane smooth?
Good idea or bad?
5 December 2019 at 3:18 pm #633695Where I live a full size 2×4 or 4×4 or 6×6 etc are full sized. I have to plane them down when I want a 3/4 or something smaller. The 1×8 I get is actually 1 +3/16 by just under 8 because they use metric. I know it doesn’t help you, but when I did live in the states I could find at lumber yards rough cut 2×4 and on up which were actual 2 x 4 or larger boards.
Also in the states, I didn’t know for years, but most towns of any size (20k or more) often have a milling shop that makes lumber to any dimension you want. They make lumber for trim and siding or large pieces for beams, but they will make anything you want and they aren’t expensive.
- This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by 5ivestring.
21 March 2019 at 3:22 am #555628@flyboyjim Figures, I play the banjo, 44 years now. Played 15 years in with one group. Paid those dues too.
20 March 2019 at 8:10 pm #555625You can do like I did, make a whole bunch of small jewellery type boxes. For me, it was learning eye hand coordination 90%, then holding the chisel or saw straight. Box after box after box. Sometimes I would keep a box with bad cuts just to refer back to later. Most times I would just re-cut the ends and square them again then start over, less waste of wood. I got big boxes (use them for my tools now) and so many small gift type boxes, but it was a great way to learn to prep stock, extremely important, and cut tails, slowly getting better and better
Now the confession. I just made my Trestle table, and the dovetails were the least of my worries. As it turned out, everything else was perfect, mortises and tenons absolutely perfect. Dovetails….. very first one I blew into a differnt time zone. The next 2 were super good and the last one perfect. That dog’s tooth was my fear on the first one and I think I let that get to me. Turned out to be pretty easy to do really. So with all my practice on Dovetails, when it came right down to it, I can still blotch them.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 1 month ago by 5ivestring.
25 January 2019 at 11:08 pm #554715Thank you for all that information. I actually was thinking about doing Tong and Grove. It wouldn’t be that hard with this wood.
Actually the hardest part so far is getting the long edges absolutely straight and square. But I have surprised my self by being able to do it. I plane to what I think is straight & square then let it sit a couple days, then re check it. I’ll keep doing that until the time comes to call it good. I’m at the point with those boards that I have my plane depth set very shallow just taking of a whisper of a shaving each pass and then re checking. Still learning and getting my confidence. OH, and having a great lot of fun doing so.
25 January 2019 at 12:59 pm #554705Hi @flyboyjim
I did cut 2 more on the 4 inch mark and they came out fine. The planed down very easy too.
As for the board that bowed, I’ll find some use for it. Maybe cut short pieces for something, or plane them even again. I sure won’t waste the wood though.
23 January 2019 at 10:40 pm #554672I’m going to guess it was the grain, although I really don’t know. After waiting a few hours I decided to cut another piece of wood. This time it still bowed, but very acceptable. Maybe 1/8 over the 8 foot span. This piece I can plane true.
23 January 2019 at 8:55 pm #554671This wood was seasoned before I bought it. I just left it in my shop extra time until I was ready.
However, I did not know about the one year per inch rule, thanks for that info.
No, this wood was definitely dry, no question there. I looked at the grain again real close and there were a couple spots that could have caused some of it, not sure though.
20 October 2018 at 10:45 pm #552797Thanks Sven Olof,
I think that is enough to settle my question. I’ll just order the new wood and do a different project in the meanwhile. When in doubt, do it right. I’ve finally gotten to the point in my wood working that I can tackle these projects and there are a lot of things I want to make.
Thanks for the info.
Gary
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