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10 December 2014 at 3:22 pm #122052
Nice work Jude. I got so engrossed in reading your blog that I forgot about the time. It’s 2.20am!
15 November 2014 at 7:36 am #120977If you want to go to higher grits there’s nothing stopping you. I don’t think it will make too much difference to performance though. I’ve done a few recently myself. I found that by removing most of the rust first with vinegar its much easier then to use abrasive to clean up the plate and give it that nice brushed metal look. Just be sure to remove all traces of grease using degreaser or scrub with dishwashing soap. Rinse then pat dry before fully immersing in the cheapest white vinegar you can find. I found a cheap kitty litter tray to be perfect for this. Keep an eye on it and scrub every so often with a brass brush as you see all the bubbles forming. Make sure they are immersed fully or you might get corrosion lines where the metal is in contact with the air. Takes about 20 hours. Maybe longer if its cold or the saw is in really bad shape. Here’s some photos. Some people might find this removes too much patina but Im a user not a collecter so I prefer them like this. I’ve tried electrolysis in the past as well but I think I’ll just use the vinegar from now on. It might work a little slower but its less mucking around.
Oh and be sure to thoroughly wash away all the vinegar with soap then dry well before immediately using a rust preventative. I find G15 works so kuch better than WD40. WD40 is one of the worst in preventing rust according to results of some tests made by Jim Davey, a tool restoration expert here in Australia. I then put mine out in the hot sun upright length ways just to make sure all the moisture comes out of the spine then spray some more G15 down there.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.11 November 2014 at 3:50 pm #120836Sounds horrible. I would look for better wood. All my local pine comes from New Zealand I think. I wouldn’t be surprised if it was available over there, they seem to be sending it all over the world these days. I know the USA have been importing it by the ship load as well.
11 November 2014 at 9:41 am #120825I stoned the edge after re-cutting, shaping, and sharpening the teeth. Works brilliantly now, thanks for the suggestion Frank, I actually did do this but at first it showed no improvement, I was reluctant to do it too much as in all the videos I’ve watched of Paul I don’t think he ever mentioned it.
I didn’t use a stone though, my old oil stone is way too dished. I used my 600 DMT diamond with the saw laid flat on the edge of the bench and the diamond plate held straight in a forward motion while most of the diamond plate was on the bench.
I’m pretty happy with myself now and learned a lot. I didn’t want to give in and end up taking it to a saw sharpener or I might not have learned a thing.
I’ve sharpened quite a few times over the years and I think I always end up having to do this to get them to cut straight. My saw is about 18tpi. I remember Paul saying that you don’t have to worry about the burr on small teeth as it will wear off in use but I find I always have to do it when I sharpen from one side only as Paul did in the video.
I think he should perhaps mention it in a future saw sharpening video, I think he is working on some in the future. It would have saved me some stress.
I now have the best performing saw I’ve ever used, the progressive rake works great, it was an old rusty no name but it now works way better than my hardly used Veritas which I’ve hated since I got it because the handle is too big for my hands (and my hands are big) plus it’s all shiny and new my hand just slips around in use.
Anyway, thanks guys.
Have fun.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.8 November 2014 at 9:14 am #120721I had a similar experience today then jumped on here to see if I could find answers. The main problem I had was that the saw was nice and sharp but when i tried it out it cut to the left all the time and wouldn’t follow the line, when it gets deeper it starts to jam which makes sense because of the curved cut. After inspecting the saw and feeling with the finger tips I realised it’s caused by the tiny burr left over from sharpening all the teeth through from the same side.
I wouldn’t be surprised if this was the problem with your first attempt as well but we may never know now, maybe ask the guy who sharped it, he might have noticed the problem before correcting it..
In the video Paul said this would be ok for rip cut saws with fine teeth and that the burr goes away after the first few cuts. I haven’t found that to be the case, I’ve made quite a few cuts with it and it’s horrible. I think I might alternate and only cut through on every second tooth then flip the blade around in the vise and cut the others from the opposite direction. This is what I used to do years ago when I was a teenager and it worked fine. I’d rather be woodworking than mucking around with saws though, it’s frustrating, I feel your pain. Paul makes everything look so easy, I get all excited to try something new after watching him and it always seems to end in frustration and hard work for me plus a wasted day or whole weekend.
2 November 2014 at 12:20 pm #120424I’m wanting to know the best way to buy them in Australia. I have a few of the DMT’s but would rather go with Eze-Lap because the little dimples in the DMT annoy me and leave marks. Does anyone know the cheapest way to get them? I could order from Amazon I think but shipping would be high. Anyone local stock them?
I’ve managed to track down the Thor hammer and the Stanley marking knives. Someone needs to start up a business – ‘Paul Seller’s Recommended Supplies’ so we can order all this stuff from one source. Would be much cheaper than shipping all these separate cartons of tools all over the place. I’ve spent so much time trying to find everything down under but it’s worth it in the end. Now I just need to build a tool chest to store it all!
2 November 2014 at 11:01 am #120422I just did that out in my workshop about 10mins ago. An old saw I picked up at the local market. Worked the heel and toe a little more with the file until the ruler was sitting on all teeth, then once more over it just to make them all even. I think my file was a little too short so it was riding down the concave, using the ruler allowed me to see where the high spots were then I just put the file on a skew to focus the high spots. Seemed to work well, not sure if my advice is correct but that’s what I was doing today then I came in and just happened to read your post. Just keep an eye on how much your taking off, you don’t want to end up removing the teeth altogether or you will have nothing to judge the teeth spacing by. If the teeth get close to being removed then a few quick files in the gullet will keep your spacing marks present as you continue to lower the high teeth by topping.
Hope this helps, I started sharpening the teeth after topping, got to about 20 front teeth then decided to finish up for the day, my eyes and neck were strained. I tested the newly sharpened teeth on a piece of scrap and it seems to be much better than my last attempt at sharpening, before I watched Paul’s videos. Can’t wait to get the whole saw done and put it to work, I think it will become my new favorite. The progressive rake angle helps a lot.9 October 2014 at 3:16 pm #119204I’ve just about given up. I don’t think there’s anything I can do at my end anyway. The problem is at their end.
6 July 2014 at 4:03 am #59138Looks great, can you give us any tips? Did you use a grinder or just a file or both? How do you make sure the point is dead centre? I am going to make one as I haven’t been able to find one I like, the square ones seem to be hard to find here in Australia.
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