Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
The Millers Falls 5A Restoration
Polishing, Painting, sanding and finishing.
After a bath and scrub from the Evaporust, I degrease all the parts with Simple Green, which i cannot stop recommending as an ultrasafe cleaner and degreaser.
The metal parts are masked and painted with Black Engine Enamel. I know, all the purists will jump that I did not paint the wheel red, but unfortunately I couldn’t find red enamel here in Guatemala. That and that I really dont care what color I give it since it is a user drill. When I want to sell it or put it on a shelf, then I can repaint it, it is really not that difficult.
I repainted it differently than the MF No.1. On this baby, I put a coat on, leave it to dry for one full day, then I baked it in the oven at 200°F for 40 minutes. I did that for three coats.
The MF no.1 I put the three coats and then baked it. I fear it “toasted” the exterior and left the innner paint “fresh and gooey”. and it will probably be more difficult for it to fully dry.The wooden handle changed like the sun is to the moon. That really nasty orange lacquer revealed the most beautiful wood inside. I sanded it to 320, one coat of boiled linseed oil, another 15 minutes apart, and then I clean the excess. I waited for it to dry, a day or two, and then I applied 4 or 5 coats of wiping varnish. I mixed my own, 25% Mineral Spirits, 75% Minwax Polyurethane, you know when it is done when there is a shiny layer that will protect the wood from your benchwork.
Polishing all the parts is easy but it is a long and tedious process…. Depending on the condition of the part I usually start at 180 grit and work to 1500 grit even use green polishing compound if necessary. Even start at 120 grit if it is necessary.I try to put most of the parts in my electric drill, like all the screws and spindles. I spin them in the drill and offer the abrasives, they go real fast.
For the parts I cannnot spin in the drill, I cut thin strips of abrasive paper and go back and forth polishing the parts.
I bath all the parts in wd40 for safety measure against rust whilst the other parts get painted and ready for assembly.
Hey Jay,
I have been out of the scene with my day job, and finishing my MF No.1 Here are the pictures of the finished drill:
BEFORE
AFTER
I like how it came out. Some lessons learned for the 5A rebuild: finish painting last. I polished a part of the wheel drive and managed to scratch the new paint. I will not repair since all of my tools are user tools.
Jay, on your question regarding the spring chuck. Check this article out, I think that your description of your chuck with helical springs is similiar:
http://www.wkfinetools.com/tRestore/boringTools/tuningEggbeater/restEB3.asp
MF used different chucks in their manufacturing lifetime, it would be cool to have one of each, just because…. hahahaha
I hope tomorrow I can continue writing on the 5A rebuild. I am painting and finishing the wood now….
Salko:
With joiners knife I meant the stanley knife that paul uses:
The orange cracked lacquer didn’t come off as easily as the paint. it became gooey so I used the knife perpendicular to the surface so it was like a scraping movement. it proved better than using the wire brush.
Jay,
Don’t be afraid to dissassemble the drill. Even though you think it is in good condition outside, it is in terrible condition inside the chuck and the frame assembly. This is my second drill I restore, I am not an expert, but I am confident to tell you to give it a try.
The secret for the drill to sing, is to polish all the moving parts… you need to polish the chuck and all the sides where the jaws slide, so the action is always smooth when you open and close the chuck. Right now I bet that your jaws stick when you open and close your chuck, that is because even though you probably drown the chuck in WD-40, it is still rough and again, you need to polish all surfaces for it to slide perfectly. Follow this thread and you will see how easy it is.
Unfortunately, I am in a business trip so I had to leave this restoration midway. In this case, I took the parts out of the deruster and wire brushed all the carbon residue. I left all the parts in a bag with lots of WD-40 to prevent flash rusting until I come back on Thursday.
On Thursday, I begin polishing, painting and finishing. It is amazing how things change after painting and polishing.
My Millers Fall No. 1 will be ready to assemble on Thursday so you will have a sneak peak on how this babies end up.
Paint stripping, derusting
Hi all, this is the part I detest on rehabilitating and restoring tools, stripping the paint.
I hate using paint stripper, it is really dangerous. But unfortunately it is the best way to go.
I stripped only the frame and handles. Like I said, the red driving wheel is in good condition, and it is better to let it as it is so it impacts character to the drill.
The frame had half of the paint but all of the plating is intact, so the paint has to go.
The wooden handles had a very heavy coat of lacquer, orange cracked laqcuer. It loocked awful and it was a pain to take it off. After several methods, including wire brushes and cleaning towels, the best way was to scrape it with my joiners knife, The wood looks beautiful and will take a nice color when I finish it.
Next, all the parts gets a bath on a Deruster. I am using Evaporust. It has prove to be effective many times. When I take all the parts out, I continue polishing the metals, sanding the wood, and painting the frame.
Next up… Polishing and Painting, Sanding and Finishing
Salko,
I would only worry on losing the small parts that this tools have. Remember that they are top of the line tools and are made superbly with top of the line materials and craftsmanship.
That said, It would be very difficult to render a tool useless just by disassembling it. Dont be afraid to take it apart. It is of the best material and it will resist. And you know, they need some love out of so many years of neglect. They need to shine ones more!The frame, Crank and spindle disassembly
The crank handle attaches to the crank by means of two screws, unscrew them and both the handle and crank should separate cleanly from the frame.
The frame has two spindles. The handle spindle is attached by means of a pin to the frame, the front of the spindle is housed to the frame and seated to one big ball bearing. The counteracting pinion rides freely in this spindle.The spindle towards the chuck houses the driving pinion and it is fastened by a pin. there is no bearing ball in the spindle that houses this spindle.
Taking the handle of the spindle out was difficult, the spoindle has grooves that makes it difficult to pull. some WD-40 and force helped. the driving spindle came out just pulling with your hand.
Next, clean all parts again, I do it with gasoline. you can do it with whatever solvent or degreaser you fancy.
Next… Cleaning, derusting,and paint stripping
The frame, Crank and spindle disassembly
The crank handle attaches to the crank by means of two screws, unscrew them and both the handle and crank should separate cleanly from the frame.
The frame has two spindles. The handle spindle is attached by means of a pin to the frame, the front of the spindle is housed to the frame and seated to one big ball bearing. The counteracting pinion rides freely in this spindle.The spindle towards the chuck houses the driving pinion and it is fastened by a pin. there is no bearing ball in the spindle that houses this spindle.
Taking the handle of the spindle out was difficult, the spoindle has grooves that makes it difficult to pull. some WD-40 and force helped. the driving spindle came out just pulling with your hand.
Next, clean all parts again, I do it with gasoline. you can do it with whatever solvent or degreaser you fancy.
Disassembly of the chuck, and main wooden handle:
First, unscrew the chuck from the frame
Second, take apart the chuck by unscrewing it. It has a slot, where you can use a large flat screwdriver can help you unscrew it, dont use force, it will easily give.
WIth your finger and then a dowel, push the jaws out of the chuck assembly
Disassemble the jaws from its assembly, carefully taking the springs out.
Usually, the ebay vendors “cleans” the items with enough WD-40 to make the piece look good. They actually make a mess inside the chuck with leftover sawdust, grease, years of dust accumulation and rust. Clean all the pieces. I am using here Gasoline because that is what I have on hand. You can use any kind of solvent, Diesel, alcohol, Degreaser, Purple Power, Simple green, or whatever you want. The idea is to clean all the parts for rust and paint assessment.
On to the main wooden handle. I first unscrew the wooden top of the handle where the bits are stored. Then using a pin punch and a light pin hammer I tap the pin out of the ferrule.
The pin only goes one way so try from both directions. you have to tap hammer it gently but firmly, the pin starts moving after a couple of taps.
After taking the pin out, pull the main handle out. Be careful, other MF drill the wooden handle is screwed to the frame, dont use force, if it doesn´t come out, unscrew the main handle and pull the ferrule out of the wooden handle with a vise or vise grip with leather strip protection so you do not ruin or scratch the ferrule.
Next up Frame,splinde,pinion, drive dissassembly…
I wanted to take the time and document the MF No.1 Restoration, but I did not have a camera available. I am almost finish with this drill and will post photos of the restored tool.
Now I have the opportunity to document the Millers Falls no. 5A Rehab-Restoration. Please hop in the train and tag along with me on this journey. Please be aware that this is my tool. I am not a professional restorer or a tool galoot, most of the time I finish making things in a much unorthodox way. I will do my best with what I have and my abilities and that is that. If my methods serve you then I will be happy you learn from them.
THE DRILL
Attached are photos of my new (old) Miller Falls Drill model 5A. I am using Georgesbasement.com type study to identify the drill:
The frame is the Wiper Era No. 5 type 17.
The chuck is the 17 GCS-3J.
The main handle is type 17 and the crank knob is the late lacquered HW-15. The principal side Handle shape is the Middle, Chef’s Hat, lacquered HW.
The Crank Markings are the Triangular Millers Falls Tools Since 1868 logo, Greenfield, Mass. Made in the U.S.A. No. 5A. It also has lines marked near the the crank affixing screw.
Given that, we can say that the drill corresponds to the No. 5 type 16: this is the description on georges basement:
Type 16 – The triangular Millers Falls logo and model number are stamped on either side of the crank affixing screw, along with some lines, that perhaps were used to as a substitute for a lock washer, near the crank knob. The protected-spring, 3-jaw chuck is no longer stamped with the patent date; and the thickly red lacquered hardwood main handle has a gently rounded flare.
The major change is in the frame, which is now made of die-cast alloy. The pinions have a more usual pressure angle.Upon further examination. you have to assess whether it needs a complete restoration or if you just want to rehabilitate it.
Given the above, I think that the drill is in good condition, with some parts that has lost its plating, the frame has lost its paint but not its plating and the wooden handles has cracked lacquer that need to come off.
My decision is to go half ways: a rehab-restore.
Some parts will be rehabbed to working order, others will be stripped down and restored like new.
Next up, the dissassembly…
Hi Salko,
I am pretty impressed with the craftmanship of the Millers Falls tool. Specially the way they have survived , the use, misuse and sometimes the horror of neglect, for so many years and they have done so in good condition.
The MF No. 1 is definitely not the the best amongst the MF drills but I can say that it works like a charm, and it is my favorite. I am also sure the No. 5A and No.2 are also superior tools.
In the future I will end up buying a No. 2 and then my friend, I will have any drill to choose for a task, and my addiction will be satisfied.
I invite you to follow this thread, I will make a step by step rehabilitation-restoration of the drills.
Hey Barry, Most of them are, but one of the smaller diameter ones apparently has been dropped and one spur is bent…. I thik there is no way to fix this problem, Can anyone help me with this issue? @paul-sellers , @joseph
Hola Antonio,
Ultimamente he comprado demasiados taladros y berbiquís, por lo que creo que te tengo algunas recomendaciones…
First of all, research the drill brand, and chuck type. Then look or ask if these springs work for your chuck:
If not, you can buy Stanley springs from a Stanley chuck replacement parts set. They are cheap enough to buy and try to see if they fit in your chuck… look here http://www.stanleytoolparts.com/drills-hand.html
or google for stanley chuk parts.
Buena suerte!
Hi all, Well it looks like i will have to build up the finish then… Joseph, My only problem with 2 or 3 lb cut shellac is that it dries on me pretty quickly and I cannot make that work. I am working around 1 to 1.5 cut shellac right now and the application is not so traumatic for me…. I love shellac and I am giving it several “second chances” since I have not have any problem with my polyurethane finishing.
Ill get back to this post If I find an easier way to work around the pore filling.
-
AuthorPosts