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24 August 2022 at 2:21 pm #771534
Hi Joost,
I’m glad you solved your problem! Looks like it was both stubborn grain and a wobbly workbench. I do think the angle of the bevel could be slightly increased to at least 25° for hardwoords. With a shallow angle, the edge is fragile and damages more easily.
PS: totally forgot I sold you a plough plane ☺ Glad to hear you already made several projects with it!
Cheers, Stijn19 August 2022 at 10:07 am #770925Hi Joost,
in my experience, beech is a wonderful wood to plane. I do find it very helpful to regularly oil the sole of the plane, more so than with softwoods. From what you’re describing, I can think of 2 possible causes:
[ul]
[li]The cutting angle of your plane blade is too steep (nearing 45°). When this is the case, the blade rides on the bevel instead of cutting. An overly rounded bevel (especially towards the edge) can cause the same thing.[/li]
[li] The board of beech is nowhere near level enough for a smoothing plane. The blade simply doesn’t cut because it doesn’t touch the wood. Check the board with a long ruler, and try planing the high spots. Or better yet, come in with a scrub plane first. [/li]
[/ul]
It does help tremendously to have a good workbench to plane on! Since you can plane spruce and Douglas without problems, you have no excuse to start building one 😉 You will need to build one anyway if you want to progress in handtool woodworking. I speak from experience, I too postponed that build way too long. I worked on a makeshift workbench made from trestles and pallets for about half a year.
Hope this helps!
Cheers, Stijn2 March 2021 at 9:29 am #703589Hi Aaron,
to check for bow, you usually use a straightedge. I use an aluminum L-profile, but you could also use a long enough level or make a straightedge from wood:
If the wood is very thin (let’s say 1/2 inch or less), don’t stress too much over a slight bow. The construction will keep that board constrained.18 October 2020 at 10:23 am #682713Hi Sebastiaan,
I buy my shellac flakes from Baptist:
https://www.baptist.nl/houtbewerkers/houtveredeling/politoeren/schellakschilfers-kleurloos-1000-gram
They are located in Arnhem, but I live in Belgium so I have it shipped. I dissolve them in 90% food grade alcohol. Desinfecting alcohol also works, but I don’t like the smell.
You can also buy 100 g to test it first, but I can assure you you will buy the kilo eventually. I would advise against ready-made shellac. The shelf life is limited, and you have no way of knowing what additives are in there. Shellac is a wonderful product. Dries really fast and is completely non-toxic. Did you know they use it in the food industry to make candy shiny?Cheers, Stijn
14 October 2020 at 2:05 pm #682214Joost, I might be able to help you out. I have a Stanley 13-030 with all the cutters that I don’t use anymore. Works really well, but I prefer my Record 044 because it’s prettier 😁 I live in Belgium, so postage should be reasonably priced. If you’re interested, send me a private message (in Dutch).
18 May 2020 at 1:44 pm #661869Yes, your concern that the stain might be taken up too much in some places is justified. I would pour transparent epoxy until all the holes are filled, then I would add a layer of epoxy with a colour mixed in, and I would finish with a transparent layer again. That should do the trick.
7 April 2020 at 8:32 am #656056Hi Austin,
I can confirm that the first few photos you posted are indeed Padauk, 100% sure. It smells a bit like chocolate and cardboard.
I’m not sure about your last 2 photos, though. It looks a bit like Afrormosia to me, but that’s just a guess.27 March 2020 at 9:24 am #654700Hi Greg,
it’s normal that the diamond plates become finer grit through use. It could also be that they become clogged. Try washing the 250 plate with soap water and tooth brush first. My impression is that they cut faster again after this treatment. But I should also say that the 250 plate is not well suited for restoring bevels. I always use coarse sandpaper (80 grit or so) on granite for this. The quality of sandpaper makes a big difference. Cheap sandpaper looses its abrasive qualities much too quickly.18 March 2020 at 8:37 am #653565Same here, I use food-safe alcohol (90% I believe). Not cost prohibitive, with the amounts you normally use for shellac. In Belgium, they add a little ether to denatured alcohol, and I can’t stand that smell.
9 August 2019 at 10:52 am #597621Yes, that would definitely work. Just put 2 coats of shellac on the face of the drawer again after planing. And maybe even a third coat for the entire drawer.
19 July 2019 at 11:51 am #591420Hi Mark,
thanks for sharing. I had a really good laugh while watching the trailer.30 June 2019 at 9:21 am #585620That’s the one. It does give crisp results, but you need to be careful while rubbing the paper off. Use only with laser prints. Ink jet prints give blurry results.
26 June 2019 at 6:42 pm #584626I always use a laser print transfer liquid. Gives very crisp results! Sparingly brush the liquid on both surfaces (wood and paper with laser print), leave to dry, and wash away the paper with a wet sponge. It helps to print on thinner paper. The brand name I use is Powerprint by a Belgian manufacturer called Powertex. Might be hard to get outside of Belgium, but I’m sure there are similar products available elsewhere.
Oh, and don’t forget to print in mirror image.22 April 2019 at 11:54 am #556703Hi Alexander,
here’s my guess. It might be that your bevel angle is too steep. Anything close to 45°, and the plane will ride the bevel instead of presenting the cutting edge to the wood. I would start by checking the bevel. If it seems steep, try resharpening to a less steep bevel (around 30°). If that doesn’t solve the problem, we’ll start thinking about other causes.20 January 2019 at 1:19 pm #554626Hi Henry,
a lot of Dutch and Belgian woodworkers are on http://www.woodworking.nl, a dutch woodworking forum. It’s not just hand tools but a bit of everything.
Cheers,
Stijn -
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