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8 October 2020 at 5:20 pm #681426
The steel plate on hand saws is typically too hard for a standard HSS drill bit. If the bit is of good quality, and many of them these days are not, and sharp then it should work provided it is fed at the correct speed. There are specialist bits which work on hardened steel. I would search out the best quality bit to do the work. Using a file may cause the holes to become out of round.
28 March 2020 at 11:35 pm #654900Don’t discard the vise you have Paramo vices were made in Britain and were every bit as good as the more recognised Record ones. The history of Paramo vises is quite interesting and well worth looking up. I have a similar vice which was acquired from an RAF base in the 1950’s. For now clean it up, re-lube it and make up some hardwood jaws. When money is more abundant buy one of the Eclipse versions of the Record 53 and enjoy.
19 March 2020 at 1:54 am #653662Non-chlorinated brake cleaner and an old tooth brush are what I used. Re-lubricate the screw with wax or a dry lubricant such as PTFE or molybdenum disulphide.
16 February 2020 at 8:32 pm #649326Why not get another Jorgensen? They are nowhere near the quality of the USA made originals but they still have a wood bar. You should be able to pick up a good one pre-owned.
For what it is worth I think the Eclipse vise is far superior.14 February 2020 at 8:53 pm #649079The first thing is to remove the oil and grease from the vise. I have found that non- chlorinated brake cleaner is best for this. Then re- lube the guide bars and the thread with either a paste wax or a dry lubricant spray such as Glide Coat.
27 October 2018 at 4:37 am #552852If you are looking for an axe to do double duty then look for the Husqvarna Carpenters Axe. I believe it is made by Hultafors who make and axe almost identical but the Husky axe is considerably cheaper.
The design is perfect for hewing wood for carpentry and would also make an excellent general purpose camping axe.29 November 2017 at 2:29 pm #386281This is not an easy question to answer. It depends on a number of factors including how much work has to be done initially in sharpening the saws. You did not mention whether the saws were bought new, in which case an initial “touch-up” is all that may be required, or whether the saws were used. My own saws were purchased off E-Bay and some of them required considerable work in getting them sharp. In addition saw steel varies in hardness and this also has an effect as does your filing technique. How many strokes per tooth and how hard you bear down on the file.
I have sharpened some of my S&J and Tyzack saws numerous times and the files are still good. When they stop cutting I will replace them.
Incidentally the Bahco files have an excellent reputation and I an very pleased with the ones I bought.
Good luck.20 September 2017 at 12:51 am #317302Marples had their own range of planes prior to the merger with Record. Their planes were very similar to every other Bailey type plane on the market. I have found that the better planes all have the frog adjusting screw at the base of the frog. Cheaper, and therefore inferior planes do not have this screw relying on setting the frog using just the two securing screws on the front of the frog under the iron assembly.
16 September 2017 at 12:43 am #315948Hi,
When I made mine I used the rough side of the leather. The stropping compound I purchased is green and was described as being of ‘fine’ consistency. Any good tool store sells this stuff for buffing wheels etc.
Regards,
Chris Wood8 September 2017 at 4:48 am #315658Harvey,
For some reason I am unable to upload pictures. Perhaps someone can walk me through this. It is the second time I have tried and failed.
In the meantime if you let me have your e-mail address I will forward the picture.7 September 2017 at 5:41 pm #315636Hybrid sharpening is a controversial subject. I have yet to see compelling evidence that it is beneficial, particularly given that my 10 point, sharpened for rip-cut seems to cross-cut well in both hard (red and white oak) and soft (spruce) woods.
By the way, here is the wall-mounted till I made for my newly sharpened saws.7 September 2017 at 4:22 am #315620I ended up doing exactly what you suggested. The ten point 22 inch is now a rip cut and the eight point 24 inch is a crosscut. I think this last saw must have been a rip cut originally. It was hard to tell because the teeth were in poor condition. Although it cuts reasonably well I think another filing is in order. The other saws cut fine including my back saws, all of which are Tyzack.
I have to say that Paul’s tutorials on sharpening both for rip and crosscut were superb. I was always led to believe that saw sharpening was some kind of dark art but it really is quite simple if you follow his guide.
The only problem now is I keep browsing You Tube for saws, not because I need more but because I want to practice sharpening.
Thanks5 September 2017 at 3:59 am #315520Hi,
It looks very much like a swan-neck chisel. Used for levering waste from deep mortices. The tool is never struck but used only by hand.
Regards,
Chris28 August 2017 at 2:49 pm #314713I suppose a great deal depends upon the quality of the weld. If it was done correctly using the right welding wire and the area being welded was prepared to a high standard there is no reason why it would not be sound. However that is a lot of ‘ifs’. I tend to agree with the other posters and wait until something at least intact comes along. There are plenty out there. All one needs is patience.
25 August 2017 at 12:55 am #314671At just 4 pounds you won’t be losing much by having a go. I recently received a saw I bought on EBay which had a slight kink about two inches from the toe. I put it in my machinist vice at the kink and flexed the plate until the kink was gone. I was conscious not to over do the process but it worked.
Good Luck,
Chris- This reply was modified 6 years, 8 months ago by Chris Wood.
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