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My LN large tenon saw had the exact same problem out of the box, purchased directly from LN. One day it dawned on me that the problem probably was that it had too much set. I decreased the set per Paul’s method and the difference has been night and day – the saw works much, much better. It still isn’t as smooth as I would like it to be, which I will take care of when I gather the courage to sharpen it. I plan to alter the tooth geometry at that point as well, but that isn’t strictly necessary. Just like their planes, their saws are usable out of the box but must be sharpened for optimal performance. I believe this is what people mean when they say that LN’s saws aren’t that great. There is nothing wrong with their steel, and their handles are well executed, it’s just that their saws do appear to require some attention. Once taken care of, these saws should be just fine.
Check the auction site… I found a NOS Stanley iron for $20. It works very well. That being said, depending on the wood, A2 steel can work better particularly on knotty wood. Lee Valley does sell various replacement irons and cap irons for older Stanley planes. Their A2 steel is very good and priced reasonably.
MarcI just converted a 100-year old smoothing plane to a scrub plane. It works like a charm…. extremely lightweight and easy for scrubbing diagonal to the grain with short strokes, or along the grain with longer strokes. I am glad I saved myself the $ and didn’t buy a metal scrub plane.
Marc[attachment file=”141319″]
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- This reply was modified 7 years, 6 months ago by Marc D.
- This reply was modified 7 years, 6 months ago by Marc D.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.I use the bandsaw for ripping and occasionally for crosscuting within the 14″ limit of my machine. The chop saw is ok but I prefer to cross cut by hand. My table saw is sitting unused waiting for me to find the time to sell it, along with my jointer. The bandsaw cuts do require cleaning up with a hand plane, whereas the table saw cuts can come out essentially ready to go. That spinning blade, however…. I don’t want to deal with it any more. The bandsaw is much safer, though it can do harm as well like all machines.
MarcHaving faced the exact same issue recently, I searched online to learn that some people pour very hot/boiling water on the saw plate and immediately bend it in the opposite direction to the bend or kink (wearing insulated gloves of course). Boiling water seems to be hot enough to straighten the saw without annealing the metal. I also found someone who uses a plain old hammer and an anvil (Matt Cianci). Haven’t tried either method myself. The saw cuts fine regardless.
Lee Valley sells an insert nut driver that attaches to a power drill for installing threaded inserts (there are two versions for either 1/4-20 or 5/16-18). I have a T-shaped threaded driver that does the same thing, but I don’t see it on the LV website. I think that’s where I bought it.
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