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I had trouble doing this too at first. I had a tendancy to veer away from the line, even when I felt I was standing, and sawing, fairly straight. When it came to cutting the ends of my benchtop I wanted a good straight cut to avoid extra work after. I thought: if I tend to wander away from the line at an angle left to right, why not ‘feel’ like I’m trying to perform a slight undercut instead, and see what happens. Voila!
A relatively square cut, enough that the eye can’t tell if it’s not totally square. It feels weird that I’m turning my wrist inwards a bit to get a straight cut, but that’s what works for me, especially if cutting through a thick board and I don’t want to keep stopping every three seconds. I guess it really is about feel, and knowing what works and what doesn’t.
I think it’s important to take the time to establish the cut as well, so you have a good accurate starting point. Hope that helps along with the other advice you have here.
Andrew, I have had a similar dilemma recently. I bought an old Stanley a few months back and can’t find any auger bits to fit it. I was going to buy a new one, but an online shop I order from helped me out, as they now stock ‘Clico Jennings Pattern Auger Bits’ which fit these old braces perfectly. They’re not cheap though. So you have four options as I see it: 1) buy a new brace, 2) seek out some old bits from ebay and old tools shops for your current brace, 3) buy some brand new, old-style bits for a 2 jaw brace, 4) buy an inexpensive adapter that ‘converts’ your old brace to take the hex-style bits. (again from ebay; where-else?)
I haven’t tried the Clico bits yet, but I expect they will be very good to use. Hope that helps.
Ok, it appears that the iron trick doesn’t work on this type of finish (unless you’re after the stripped wood covered in white blotches look). Before I caused complete disaster, I just went over the wood with the waxes I use to maintain it: one clear; one colour.
I think the re-heating method is for lacquered, or more durable (thicker) finishes.
What saw are you using? Maybe a very fine Japanese-style saw will make a neater cut. Also, is your wood perfectly square before you begin? This could be a problem area, effectively introducing difficulty before you’ve even begun. I use a very fine jewellers saw to cut out the waste as well, as I find it just leaves a much neater line.
To me the humble dovetail seems to have a number of pitfalls (moving while marking the pins/ brusing the wood/ cutting beyond the line) all of which can lead to undesireable results. Your not far off; I’m sure you’ll get there!
At the moment I have a batch of rough boards that came as a ‘hobby pack’. Thinking about it though, and having experienced this sort of lumber, I may consider using planed timber, especially if I want something that is a bit more adventurous than just pine (there are a couple of suppliers who are quite good with online orders and cutting lists). So it will likely be square 4-sides for most of the time.
You’re right, I’m in the UK. There are a couple of planes I’m watching on ebay, hopefully they won’t go for too much. One is a number 5 Stanley, which I think will serve as a good all-rounder. There are quite a few on there actually, as you say. I think I’ll try for one of those and take it from there.
Hi Michael. I guess I’m looking for both. A new plane – as in an addition to my current tools – and thoughts about the various brands. I’m happy to buy old tools, but was curious about peoples experiences with different makers. Mainly because I’ve never used any of them. It’s a good point about it not fulfilling their needs; I’m wondering how many people buy a new plane thinking it will magically shave wood with no effort, only to find they struggle to take thin shavings.
David, I agree brand is an aesthetic to a degree. The choices when it comes to tools can be difficult to make. There’s a lot of nice to have vs need to have.
The voice of reason Dave!
I’ve been mulling this over and looking at those listed above, and I think you may be right. The Clifton planes are readily available here, as are all the spares and bits n’ pieces. They are affordable, and in honesty, are a Stanley in everything but name. The Nielsen’s always catch my eye, but I wonder how much style over substance they are. Only way to know is try them; but that involves a fair journey.
I’m quite happy with my old Stanley really, so if I can ditch the desire to just buy some new gear, I think a visit to ‘ye oldde tool shoppe’ might be the way to go. I can always get a replacement blade if needed.
Thanks for the nice comments everyone.
[quote quote=120280]I’m sure it beats chasing a workmate.[/quote]
You’re not wrong there. Many a frustrating afternoon spent doing that…[quote quote=120283]my bench is only 48 inches long and I’ve managed to build some biggish furniture pieces with mine[/quote]
That’s good to know, cheers. -
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