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6 February 2019 at 11:19 am #554898
Thanks for the info. Interesting, makes sense then that draw bore tenons would be used for exposed windows and doors.
Making a bed soon, even though I hope it will never be used outside, I’m using draw bore tenons 🙂
7 January 2019 at 2:20 am #554293Thanks again guys.
I haven’t had a chance to try stoning the saw yet. I feel that’s the best bet.
I have modified the set to make it work for small teeth. And I did try reducing the set with the hammer in the vice trick to no avail.
By ‘drags to the right’ I mean a curved saw cut. The saw’s passage through the wood is clean and smooth.
Thanks guys I’ll get back ASAP with the results
5 January 2019 at 8:57 pm #554279Ok great!
Thanks for he advice and info.I’ll try exactly what you suggested and get back to you.
I use an eclipse no 77 type saw set.
Thanks!
7 October 2018 at 1:01 am #552535Yes they seemed to be sized and cut by eye. Beautiful work.
Apart from this feature the boxes were rather utilitarian. Perhaps the craftsman just got sick of dovetails…28 September 2018 at 3:50 pm #552363Thanks for the replies guys.
Interesting to think there is no glue for these larger joints?!
Just walking down the steet here in Peru, seems every door and window has a draw bore.
Btyreman, you say draw bore was common when you were growing up?
Perhaps it went out when the machines came in?Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.30 August 2018 at 11:58 am #550765Your not alone Andrew!
All my projects to date have been from salvaged timber (picked from dumpsters mainly). Dimensioning ALWAYS takes the longest. I had also found it quite frustrating.
After thinking long about it I realised the frustration was mostly because I was setting myself arbitrary and unrealistic goals. I wanted to finish a table in a week but after 5 days I had not even started the layout. Expectations differing to reality.I do have a scrub plane and can vouch for that.
Also adjusting projects to the size of your stock helps. I find timber and then find the project.Take your time! Enjoy the fact you’ve really and absolutely made something from scratch.
I find a supreme satisfaction that Ive literally taken landfill and turned it into a useful potentially beautiful object without the aid of machines.Maybe one day you and I will have a bandsaw, jointer and thicknesser. Hell! Maybe even a bench bigger then 3’x1′ in the laundry… but not for now, thats ok.
Keep at it!9 April 2018 at 2:59 am #520592Thanks Larry!
That appears to have worked.
Small taps with a ball hammer against another hammer clamped in the vice.Austin, have you removed the handle? I found it easier to deliver the correct blow in the correct place with the handle removed. Then the light rapping with the hammer did the trick.
Thanks for the help guys!
7 April 2018 at 12:40 am #519453Thanks guys!
Great info. I was able to remove a the very slight gradual curve which was present.
However now there remains a very slight kink halfway along the teeth. very slight, almost imperceptible except in bight light . Im loath to try and fix it with a hammer, being sprung steel and all id probably do more damage.
I found some guys on the net saying you can remove the handle, clamp some heavy straight steel to either side of the saw plate, just below the teeth so not to get the straight edge hung up on the tooth set and put it in a screaming hot oven for a while then let it slowly cool. although id probably have to remove the brass back? never done that before… might be headed down a long bumpy road.cheers
6 April 2018 at 11:27 am #519062Hey Ecky
Thanks mate
Yes as Kenny says, against a wall helps.
My bench is not bolted to the wall. I have leather pads on the bottom of the legs and the areas where it contacts with the wall tiles. This was intended to prevent damage to the tiles but it also prevents slippage.
The bench is surprisingly stable, pushed flush with the wall on two sides I always plane towards the wall, this drives all forces into the wall and it all stays pretty solid. Its far from perfect but way better then on the ground as id been used to.
Sometimes I have to move the bench a touch so a long workpiece can stick out the window(i did this today when marking the pins for my toolbox), the apartment is rented so I cant drill holes in the wall(also don’t have any power tools).cheers
4 April 2018 at 10:58 am #517306just a picture to help visualise.
- This reply was modified 6 years ago by Jac Norton.
- This reply was modified 6 years ago by Jac Norton.
19 March 2018 at 10:04 pm #502043I finally finished my mini work bench a week ago. I live in a 1 bedroom apartment with my Partner in Paddington, Sydney Australia. My work bench measures 36″ by 12″ (900mm x 300mm). The room which houses my workbench is 6’x 3’7″ (1.8m x 1.1m) and also has a sink, washing machine and clothes drier.
I find the space large enough for most small jobs. As a beginner its perfect. I have no power tools.
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