Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
27 July 2019 at 1:54 am #593709
really going to miss that #48 but I’m leary of eBay ones. lie Neilson has an improved version. had to set up the shaper to finish this door every piece was a different size. that was the freedom I had with the plane, had to make 2 setups for each board. this door was supposed to be smooth too and the only tool I have makes a chamfer on the groove side. For the cost of new cutter for the shaper, it would almost pay for the Lie Nielson
26 July 2019 at 12:57 pm #593509Thanks for the suggestion I can actually get tool steel from place not far from me but the real problem is the broken clamp that holds the blade. The blade broke because it was being held too far from the cutting edge.
16 April 2019 at 5:32 pm #556047Old kitchen base cabinets with drawers might work for you. Try your local barter site or classifieds you can often get them for free. Then make stacking boxes to organize inside. You might even make them so they can convert to drawers later when you have to time to make your own cabinets up.
16 April 2019 at 5:24 pm #556045What I found with these kinds of legs is that the actual floor is an integral part of the design. These were made to be on carpet so there was a lot of friction where it touched the floor and that keeps the legs from splaying. If it’s being used on slippery floor the force is all on the joint which can’t hold up. Little rubber foot pads actually were what solved this problem. The joints work even without glue if it can rely on the floor contact. Waited a while to see if it held up and its been fine.
1 March 2019 at 4:54 pm #555447There might be room for something like that. The post extends below the bottom of the legs but I may be able to chisel a recess on the post and on the leg and put a 90° bracket in there and it wouldn’t be seen. The legs, of course tend to splay and that opens the joint at the bottom first and then the rest fails. Thanks good idea
1 March 2019 at 1:52 pm #555443Hate my phone..
been re glued so many times I dont think doing it again would make a diference. What would you folks do to fix this?
17 January 2019 at 1:02 am #554576Thanks for this but I’m having a bit of a hard time “seeing” what I’m looking at in his diagrams. The idea of making a set of hollow and rounds for this is appealing but I’m not sure I understand ho his instruction diagrams work. Are the colours different planes or the cuts they make?
16 December 2018 at 11:31 pm #553903I thought it might not be easy. The router tools for this joint don’t necessarily work as I think the dimensions of the joint rely on the hinges used as they make the radius the joint has to follow. I actually forgot about the match planes used for this and your right, I doubt I’d find a set that would work the way I want. Paul has plane making instructions that really interest me so maybe I’ll delay the table top project until I have made a couple of practice planes, then make a set of planes to match suitable hinges and do it then.
Paul recommended as a reply to me that the stanley55 seemed like a great idea but was not too good in practice.
30 November 2018 at 2:49 pm #553668eek!.. wish I could edit that. If its confusing I’ll re write it
30 November 2018 at 2:47 pm #553667Ahh I think now see now. That hole you point out is it possible it was drilled through the hole part and the outside and the other side is hiding the ends of the pin? Assemblies like that are usually pinned in assembly. And if they do it right the pin and the hole are closely matched and blended so you cant even see them unless something moves. So I look back at your other pictures and the threaded stub looks too short. I think it may have broken off where the pin went through and they took the broken piece out and simply tried to thread it in further. You might measure to see if the centre of where the bit goes is colinera with the centre fo the top handle pad when assembled. I think they are supposed to be. And if they are not then using the brace properly may be a problem
28 November 2018 at 11:31 pm #553608looks like a decent brace otherwise. I think those threads are to far gone to save. I’d weld it up maybe it was made for interchangeable chucks?
20 November 2018 at 2:07 am #553333As a photographer, I get this question a lot, Can you make a living when everyone hs a camera. The truth is that there is a market for everything. you have to find your own niche, there is always one. and be the best at it. Can you compete with a “truck and ladder” guy installing 2 kitchens a day, probably not? but you might be the guy to restore one in a historic home and get paid for months to do it. Paul, I think still teaches.
20 November 2018 at 1:55 am #553332I think it would still make a strong enough joint if the boards were jointed to fit, the glue should be plenty strong. But if you’re really worried why not try a double tenon joint with one on each side of the glue line?
20 November 2018 at 1:44 am #553329Nice. It looks great!
these are mine. I recently moved and the 3 on the left were misplaced and were all rusty when I found them, water had gotten inside bt in the meantime I picked up the 2 on the right and fixed them up. I don’t know which I like better, I think the Anant #4 I reach for first, the blue Stanley works nicely too but the throat isn’t adjustable like the Anant but the parts aren’t stamped out like the weird one on the right. That one might become a scrub plane but might not hold up to the pounding so I haven’t decided. I also just picked up 2 transition period fore planes I want to restore and use.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 5 months ago by Glenn Dube.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 5 months ago by Glenn Dube.
15 November 2018 at 10:58 pm #553276There’s an interesting post in there about oiling before shellac. will that work to keep moisture out?
-
AuthorPosts