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Maybe I did not get the full concept of the design. But I would be a bit concerned about the sideways stability since the quite small mortise and tenon joints of the rail beneath the seat would be the only joinery with gluing faces in grain direction and the seat and the lower board inserted in dadoes would not contribute very much to lateral strength. I would be afraid that the bench would collapse to one side.
So I think the back should be firmly joined to the 4 boards of the front carcase. Maybe dovetails to the sides? Gluing plus wooden dowels / screws to all 4 boards the back board sitting behind all 4 boards of the carcase.
The back board could be also glued between the sides but the dowels / screws would show on the sides. So preferabally dowels.
You could also use three to four through mortise tenon joints with wedges. This version I would prefer most.
Very nice design and immaculate joinery!!
I especially like the crosses in the upper part and the three part divisions in the lower part (very symbolistic!) where I find that the uneven division is a nice subtlety.
After seeing your progresses I don’t doubt that it will turn out gapless!
I am quite sure that you know the key would be to match and mark all the pieces and the positions of mortises together as I have learned from Mr. Paul Sellers (well I know the theories and try accordingly. But it is still a big challenge for me and I am speechless at the stunning accuracy Mr. Paul Sellers achieves every time in his videos).Accounting my personal inaccuracies I would allow me a little tolerance at the top tenon shoulders of the small vertical rails as small gaps here won’t be seen easily when you stand infront of it.
P.S. I am only a little bit unsure about the size of the top as shown in your sketch. I wonder if I would prefer it a little bit bigger.
I am eager to see the finished lectern!
Nice work, Laszlo!!
If you mean the small gap above the right drawer by “Not the best fit” you might consider to add a small chamfer on the sides and at the bottom of the drawer matching the size of the top gap. This way you might get a consistent “gap” all around without being loose in the fit. That might result in a “hovering in the center” look which could be quite nice. The left drawer should match to that look of course.
Just an idea.
Karl,
dovetails pointed it out already and you mention an old mounting guide. Additionally these instructions by Paul might be helpful espicially with all the photos: How to Build a Workbench – Fitting the Vise
Congratulations for the vise by the way!
Congratulations for the nice acquisition.
Especially getting the old “low knob”! it is a very fine plane – mine works like a dream and every time I use it I think it’s more than hundred years old! and I ask myself who might have worked with it since it is well worn.Hopefully you can get a replacement for the knob. Maybe you could find someone who can make a new one on lathe, perhaps through woodworking forum in your local area. If I had a lathe I would make you one (okay, I couldn’t since I have never done woodturning yet).
The lever cap might be not an original one though regarding the kidney shape of the hole, plating and the logo “STANLEY” on it.
Je
John,
I have got a D8 rip saw few days ago, assuming from the plate etch manufactured before 1928. On the plate it says 6 TPI but it’s more like 5 TPI.
Because it’s a new purchase I haven’t used it much yet but I can rip a 18 mm (3/4 inch) thick pine board without any problems: fast, smooth, easy and straight. And what’s more without much tearing out on the front and back side of the board, not much more than with my finer toothed Ryoba (about 8 tpi). That was very surprising for me. Well the front face of the teeth are on close look slightly slanted by a hair and not perpendicular. So it buys me some time to get saw files and a saw set.
Although I am very very new in woodworking and I have worked only with softwood yet my D8 might be exemplary for that a 5 tpi rip saw could work on thinner boards.
A too little set might be a problem as you mentioned. I would give a try.
Je
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