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Hi Jeff,
the principle is not very complicated. While pulling the drawknife your feet are pushing against the holding device in the opposite direction making the head grip and hold the workpiece in place. A Bodger’s horse just uses a horizontal bar to hold the workpiece whereas the Schnitzelbank-Style or german-style horse features a “dumbhead” to hold down the workpiece.
http://timmanneychairmaker.blogspot.de/2013/07/build-better-horse.html
This is a pretty straight-forward design without carving the head etc. The chair maker Curtis Buchanan uses both this style and a more traditional Schnitzelbank in his videos on youtube. I highly recommend watching him if you have a bit of interest in windsor chair making and such.
Beside all that I like to use the drawknife with the workpiece mounted in the vise. What exactly do you struggle with?
Hi Dominik,
if it was for a chisel handle (not what you are looking for) or a wooden plane you could get square and round stock of beech at most of the hardware stores in Germany.
Small amounts of exotic woods like ‘Palisander’ are sold for example through dictum.de. I never bought wood there but it’s a quality hand tool store so chances are good they care about everything they offer.
If you go to the lumber yard and you only need enough wood for a saw handle you could also ask if they do sell their off-cuts before spending a fortune one a whole board of rosewood.Hey Matt,
I agree that the holder probably looks best the way you made it. Is the bottom glued on?
The first thing I thought of was mortise and tenon to connect the sides to the end and I still do but to achieve a similar look like with the dovetails instead of a single tenon one could use two or three through tenons and maybe wedge them like the ones used for the walking cane.
All of this will not affect the taste of the content 😉Thanks Brett @pheasantww!
I will give that a try. Do you think the sealing of this area will affect the linseed oil paint on top later?Great! Thanks for sharing. Incredibly skilled man. Are windows glued-up in France traditionally? I always thought they were just pegged for ease of repair.
I could easily spend a week in his shop just admiring all his tools. The saw sharpening vise for example and all those planes and saws. Even the glue-cracker looks like furniture. He knows every single bump of his grinding wheel by its name. Thanks again.Hi,
like @dave I can recommend the czech York vises (Lee Valley).
The big one weighs 18 kilos and has a capacity of 15 1/2 inches.
All three are made to the same quality standard and even the small one uses the same 24 mill acme screw.
The main differences exist in jaw width (10 1/2 > 9 > 7 inches) and opening capacity 15 1/2 > 13 1/2 > 8 1/4 inches).Good Vises if you don’t want to spend time to look for an old one.
@gman3555: thanks for the links! I’ve been familiar with the underhill-video but last time I was on the lostartpress site there was no download possibility for the books or at least not for the one I was looking for or not for people ordering from outside the US or I just didn’t see it. Nevertheless I’ve got 3 more books in my digital shelf now 😉
Thanks, Greg. I’ve been searching for videos on sash window joinery but couldn’t find a lot in combination with hand tools. If you know more, please post!
Although most windows might have been made of pine as the author states, the wood used for demonstration here looks a bit like alder.Hi David,
thanks, I tried it on oak and had the steel-wool in the alcohol only for one day. It turned very dark immediately.
For the present project, I don’t want such a strong darkening, I just want to keep it natural. I hope to have the joinery done on wednesday and then I will decide what to do. One idea is to just mix some pigments into the shellac and go with that, then do some further testing to use the “kitchen-stain” on later projects.Cheers,
Florian
Hey David,
it’s nothing special, just a small piece of wood, neither carefully sawn nor sanded.
Left is the tea finnish, right just two coats of shellac on the back side of the same piece of wood, which is alder, and which is a, well, not very expressive wood but with a “cup of tea” I like it.
Alder is one of the least expensive species at my lumberyard, around the same price as local pine, so I gave it a try. It’s very homogenous with no big differences between early and late growth and it carves nicely. It’s always very exciting to get to know new species that I haven’t touched before beside collecting branches for my sister’s christmas decoration 😉
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