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8 July 2022 at 9:44 pm #766389
If my metric is correct, 55 mm is just over 2 inches thick. That’s pretty good if it’s what you’ve got. The difference between 55 and 65 mm is not that great. My benchtop is 3 1/8 inches thick and it has been great. But if all you can get is 55 mm, then go for it. It’s possible that it will flex a little with heavy use, or that it might vibrate a little when pounding on a chisel. But if you chisel over a leg, it’s not a problem. The important thing is not to let these details get you off track. Build it. It will be fine for several years. If it proves inadequate later, make a new, thicker top.
31 January 2022 at 4:24 am #746709Looks good. I’m pretty sure I left mine unfinished. It’s been in service several years now. But it has gone out of square on me a couple of times. When that happens, I need to plane the reference surface of the wedge to get it square again. Remember to check yours for square once in a while.
14 January 2022 at 2:37 am #744709Looks fantastic, Matt. The wedged tenons look great. And I love the back board detail of T&G with the bead. Nicely done!
30 December 2021 at 1:54 am #742641George, you could use 3/4″ stock if you want. I think Paul may even have said so in the video. There is nothing magic about 1″, but it will be a bit stiffer than 3/4″. As far as species is concerned, you could use a chunk of 2×6 if you wanted. There is nothing magic about beech. A hardwood will last longer and a softwood will scratch easier. But the wood you use makes little difference. Just get out there and use something and don’t get paralyzed by the details. If you find after some months of using your router plane that you might have liked to make it from something else, then make another. You’ll already have the hardware.
1 September 2021 at 6:58 pm #727066Looks very nicely done! And the mitered dovetail in the upper chest is very cool – something I’ve never tried.
15 June 2020 at 5:52 pm #665637@TIMIJTSMA – Hi Tim. Go to my blog (the url shows up in my original post above and maybe also in this reply) and use the “contact me” gadget to send the request. You can safely send me your e-mail address if you want a pdf copy or you can safely send me your home address is you want a paper copy. But I might not want to mail a paper copy if it’s outside of the U.S. Let me know what you want to do.
15 June 2020 at 5:48 pm #665635@CODECOWBOY – Sorry I never saw your request, Luke. If you still want an instruction sheet for the Record #778, go to my blog (the url shows up in my original post above and maybe also in this reply) and use the contact gadget to send the request. You can safely send me your e-mail address if you want a pdf copy or you can safely send me your home address is you want a paper copy. Good luck.
28 December 2019 at 6:43 pm #640747Ha! Isn’t that always the way it goes. Well it looks nice in the picture. I don’t think I’ll be making this project, but I had thought that the joint between the base and upright seemed more complicated than it needed to be. But it does look nice with the mahogany strips meeting up.
16 December 2019 at 4:00 am #636899For a month in, I’d say that’s outstanding! Paul once made a stool with a sliding dovetail. He might have called it a Shaker stool. I don’t recall if he used a jig to cut the inside wall of the sliding dovetail, but it’s hard to imagine how it’s done without one.
22 November 2019 at 2:40 am #629557D’oh! Looked like the glue was still liquid – no chance to pull it apart when you discovered the problem? If not, any chance you could make that little mortise a design feature? Maybe inlay something …
10 March 2019 at 5:57 pm #555497Hi Thomas. As it turns out, we only use the board occasionally. But it is still totally flat. I make sure to clean it off after use and it hangs near the sink when not used, so it dries completely. Good luck with your project.
2 February 2019 at 2:56 am #554863Turns out a neighbor is a beginner woodworker and so he’s now the proud new owner/caretaker of a brace, 13/16″ bit and a hand drill. I’ll look elsewhere to give away the other brace. Thanks everybody.
17 January 2019 at 6:23 am #554582You wouldn’t have to beef up the stretchers or rails, unless you want to increase the overall weight of the bench. The extra size of the stretchers wouldn’t add anything to the stability of the bench. Having said that, I made my stretchers beefy to match the size of the legs and I like how that looks (and I wanted the extra weight). But my rails (front to back members) are a bit thinner and they do their job well.
22 November 2018 at 1:58 am #553403Steal away, but if you do it like mine you may want to have less of a “rise” for each step, especially if your mom is elderly or not too strong. Mine has steps at 9″ and 18″ off the ground and that’s too much for some people. I’m sure you have your own plan for this, but just saying … Good luck on the project!
“If don’t get back to you, I probably died.” –LOL
21 November 2018 at 7:12 pm #553396GfB, I made something similar earlier this year from recycled oak. I dovetailed the upper and lower steps into the uprights. And the horizontal rail supports are also dovetailed into the uprights. I expect this stool will long outlast me and whoever owns it after I’m gone, though I don’t use it every day (but do use it fairly often). It easily holds my 153 pounds and could easily hold a 250 pounder with hard use.
Now, I do think there are things to consider in the design. If you use dadoes to join the steps to the uprights, then the horizontal rails will be all that keeps the stool from racking. Dovetails are far stronger than dadoes in that respect. So if you do use dadoes, then think about mortising (or dovetailing) the rails into the uprights. If you use mortise and tenon, maybe used a wedged through tenon for added strength against the racking.
Just a few thoughts – hope that helps. I’ve added a couple photos of my stool to give you ideas. Note that the uprights get wider (front to back) near the floor – this really adds a lot to the stability.
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