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Inductive hardening usually is a local process.
The area within ~1/8″ of the teeth will probably be harder than the rest of the plate, but likely softer than a saw file.
Paul has a video out there on Youtube showing how to reestablish new teeth. If I were going to do this, I would used a grinder or belt sander to remove the teeth, then a mill file to joint the edge straight
- This reply was modified 6 months, 1 week ago by M W.
There are a few ways I see this could happen.
1. You hand sharpen without a jig/fixture and flex the blade at the center, pressing hard.
2. The temper is damaged at the center of the blade making it soft and cut faster.
3. The diamonds are worn off on the perimeter of the plates.Are these thin plates? They may be flexing under pressure.
Do what Darren said above and:
1. Verify the blade is sharp. It should be easily able to slice computer paper/newspaper or if you are daring, arm hair.
2. If you use Paul’s method, you introduce a slight convex profile on the blade, the inverse of a hollow grind. Be sure that convexity is not resting on the wood before the sharpened edge of the iron does. If it does, you have too steep an angle on the iron. I did this to myself when I was starting.
3. Be sure that the iron is fully engaging the face of the frog and parallel to the mouth of the plane and doesn’t flex into a curve when you tighten the hold down bracket. This will exacerbate #2. It should be tight enough not to move when planing but loose enough to allow the blade to move with the adjuster.
4. If 1, 2, and 3 fail: Check to see if the plane is flat. Secure the iron in the plane as if you are going to use it, but leave it RETRACTED into the body of the plane. Get a plate of glass or a ceramic tile and place a piece of 150 to 300 grit sandpaper on it, abrasive up. Get a sharpie (permanent black marker) and draw some cross-marks about 3/4″ apart in a grid pattern on the whole plane bottom. Gently rub the bottom of the plane across the paper. The inked areas left behind are the low areas. Low areas are problematic at the front and rear of the plane mouth. Ideally, you should be able to put a good straight edge front to rear, and diagonally across the plane and not have room for more than a .003″ thickness gauge. If it is out of flat severely, go to the auto parts store and get a variety of wet/dry sand paper and start flattening. Do this with the iron secured in the body and retracted so the same stresses are applied as during use.
This is a single phase ac motor that uses either a start or a start-run capacitor. It is that black lump on the top of the motor housing. The purpose of the capacitor (cap) is to change the timing of the AC phase between the windings and the armature. Caps are designed to pass AC and block DC current. As capacitors get old (over years) they start to pass DC and eventually will fully short. So instead of the winding seeing AC, they are seeing AC riding on a DC current, and the windings are not designed to pass DC and will heat up (act like the grid in a toaster).
Before you condemn the motor, find a friend that has electrical knowledge and have him test the capacitor. Capacitors cost typically less than $25. You will be hard pressed to find a motor of the quality you have now for less than $125. Don’t buy a replacement cap on Ebay or Amazon. Use an electronic supply house (Digikey, Newark Electronics) as there are many counterfeits out there. Stick to a name you have heard of (Sony, Panasonic, etc,). The voltage rating must exceed 220 and the Farads should be the same as you have now and have a temp rating of 110C.
The plane will probably work for rough finishing. If you go against the grain or the grain direction changes you may experience tear out. The mouth in front of the plane blade presses down and supports the wood as the blade shaves it off.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.I have found that working with softer woods both coniferous and deciduous you need to keep your tools very sharp.
I have some chisels I keep honed at ~20 degrees and only use them on pines and poplar. The edges won’t hold up to beating with a mallet. These are usually used for paring operations. Another wood working instructor, Bob Cosman, recommends 17 degrees for chopping out dovetails in pine.
I know this is probably heresy, but I find that Japanese style pull saws make a much cleaner cut than Western saw in softwoods. Most traditional Japanese wood working was typically done in soft woods. So it is my impression that the saw tooth profile in those saw is optimized towards softwoods.
Try:
You may also want the seller to remove and keep the handle and knobs if they are rosewood. I have heard of antique tools being seized when being imported because rosewood is on the CITES list for endangered woods.
One other thing. The blades most saws come with are usually a bit dodgy. Invest in a Timber-wolf, Starrett or Laguna. Less TPI will be faster cutting, but coarser. Wider will give straighter cuts in thick wood at the expense of how tight a radius curve you can cut.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.Stick to 2 wheel bandsaws, not the 3 wheeled ones seen on some compact saws. 3 wheeled saws are difficult to get to track properly.
The power needed would vary with the TPI on the blade. More HP is better. Don’t trust the advertised labeling for HP, check the electrical label for amps. 1/2 HP should be about 4 amps, 1/3 about 2.5. This is assuming 120 volts.
A brief look around and the only ones I found I would buy is a Grizzly or Rikon. They appeared to be steel beam construction and not cast pot metal. All the others I saw on Amazon were of dubious brands. When you need some parts a few years from now Grizzly or Rikon would probably still be in business. If you have a Woodcraft store near you, they usually have a good stock of saws.
The down side of these smaller saws is that they tend to take odd ball length blades and may not be stocked locally.
If you have a hard time locating some brass tubing you can use copper water pipe. It is almost the same strength of brass and comes annealed so it shouldn’t be brittle. I have done this. The local big box hardware store sells 1′ stubs of this for repairs. You can use a tubing cutter for this.
Lead oxides were primarily used as pigments in paint.
Your most likely exposure would be in old paints by ingestion, hand to mouth, or inhalation of dust from sanded surfaces. The japanning on an old plane would be the likely culprit.
Some steels contain lead for improved machineability (tapping), this is usually only in high strength steels in .15% to .35%. This type of steel is not typically used in hand tools. It is found in watch movements. Lead is less galvanically active than iron and not likely to leach onto sweaty hands before the iron is exhausted from the alloy. The more galvanically active metal will give up its ions first.
I would be more concerned with restoring any brass or bronze tools which may contain significant amounts of lead.
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