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It looks just like some meranti that I have been working with recently. I also salvaged mine. I used Wood database to identify it. You can weigh it, measure the volume and it will take you in the ballpark. Than you can can compare how it looks with suggested species.
I also convert this saw to rip pattern. I did actually re-set the teeth. Normally there is a danger that teeth can brake off if you try to move them in opposite direction, as somebody pointed out, but in my case, everything went quite alright. No teeth broke off. Maybe because the steel appears to be quite soft. I used the Eclipse saw set, the one with red paint which is meant to be for smaller teeth.
Isn’t this due to the manufacturing process as explained one Eze lap stone package? It says that the first layer of stone will fracture rapidly, but what remains will last for years. Paul also wrote in his blog about this. He said that he presses quite hard on them when sharpening. And although they will get smoother with use, relatively to each other they will stay course, fine and super fine. But he says they will last for years.
Or is there another issue at hand?
[quote quote=553309] @nikolaj33 the glass is likely fine, but if you are not gluing the paper down, I would not be surprised if the paper is curling as you work the back and causing the back to round into a belly. I always use spray adhesive when working the back. Some will hold the paper down by wetting it and placing the wet paper on the glass, but I find that isn’t adequate for me.[/quote]
I saw Paul using just clamped sand paper on the granite block in one video, where he is flattening a sole of a plane, so I thought it could work for this too. I was looking for a short cut, because the sand paper I have looses the grit so quickly that I cannot achieve anything with one sheet. So gluing down makes things more time consuming, you gotta scrape off the glue etc.
Another problem I was having was when flattening a sole of a plane I just bought. I had problem again to make it flat. It is a 30’s plane, the steel seems very hard. What I noticed after abrading it’s back for a bit that I didn’t get a simple abraded and not abraded zones, but rather a few different zones with different layers of abrading. I have spent again a couple of hours trying to make it flat, but it didn’t work. Do you think that maybe the problem actually might be that the surface isn’t flat after all?
Maybe it is time to invest in those diamond stones, or at least a coarse one to begin with.
Yes, I agree, but what I am saying is, I cannot flatten the back on one for two hours on 80 sand paper, with frequent paper changes. What I am thinking is, that if I was working for those two hours, I would have made £25 for an Ashley Isles chisel. And I doubt that it is me, because I did manage to flatten the back on Irwin Marples chisel.
I wonder if Paul has tried new series of Lidl chisels. I started woodworking about two months ago. I was really excited to get the pack of Lidl chisels when they came out because of Paul’s appraisal. But I must say I am a little bit disappointed. Let aside the fact that some of them don’t sit right in the handle, or that side bevels are not the same size etc… But what was particularly bad is that I can’t seem to flatten the underside of the chisel. There always seem to be a patch around the blade where the sand paper doesn’t reach. I have spent three hours trying to initialise two chisels. And what did I get, well… with the bevel down it cuts beautifully, but with the bevel up, not nearly as good, which makes me believe it is because the underside isn’t flat enough. But it seems impossible to get polished until the edge of the blade. I also did a test on the light with a straight edge and it seems like there is a general hollow through the length of the blade, but it seems as if there is a tiny belly just at the edge.
Like I said, I am new and I don’t have experience, so I wonder, am I doing something wrong, or is it the new series of Lidl chisels. Yes they are innexpensive, but if it is going to take me 8 hours to get them ready, it would actually make more sense to get Ashley Isles instead and spare myself the frustration.Does anyone know of a DVD about stock preparation by hand? There definitely is one that I saw recommended on another forum, but I have no success finding it again. I think it was maybe part of a hand tool woodworking series, or it may have been a two/three volume DVD.
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