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2 November 2015 at 9:47 pm #131976
We having nothing scheduled so far, just discussions with the team up to now.
2 November 2015 at 9:18 pm #131974I decided not to do it as it has such limited interest because of its size. We are looking at a more practical sized one though.
18 February 2015 at 8:17 pm #124822“This is an interesting thread. I have had the same problem with both my EZE Lap coarse stone and paddle I bought only last year. I have already replaced the paddle with a DMT but not the stone because of the cost. I raised this directly with Paul on a course last year and he claims his stones last for years. I will ask him to comment directly on this thread”
It’s hard to comment differently than my experiences over the last decade. I have replaced my coarse plate four times in ten years but’s it’s not just my personal plate but one we use for every student attending too. We have two sets going at any given time. I have read what everyone is saying about erasers and vinegar and such and feel these things seem all the more to complicate what’s very simple for me. I use only auto-glass cleaner of the cheap kind. The stones never clog as long as I keep them wet, which I never neglect.
The stones do lose their aggression but I have never worn through the surfaces of the plates we have. I do move the coarse up a step when I feel it is less aggressive than I want so the coarse becomes medium and medium superfine and then superfine super-superfine.
I also figure into my new regimen using 120-grit abrasive paper spring-clipped to my granite block. I find that this gets me down faster than diamonds. Of course this is not as sustainable as the diamonds but it’s very fast.6 February 2015 at 10:11 am #124430My short answer is this. Knowing the mahogany as I do, weight variation happens depending on where in the tree the cut is taken from. Near the root or a crotch, even a distance a way, it’s heavier in almost all trees. My suggestion here is to make the mallet to the same size and see how it feels because i like to have different weights but not different sizes. Small mallets from denser and heavier woods work fine but translating that into a specific size is not the practical approach. You can make the mallet to the sizes and then, after using it for a few hours, change the length by 6mm on each malleting face first. This will make little functionality difference. Then you can tale some off the four sides. That way you are customising according to personal feel without compromising the main work which is the mortising and fitting the handle.
6 February 2015 at 10:11 am #124429My short answer is this. Knowing the mahogany as I do, weight variation happens depending on where in the tree the cut is taken from. Near the root or a crotch, even a distance a way, it’s heavier in almost all trees. My suggestion here is to make the mallet to the same size and see how it feels because i like to have different weights but not different sizes. Small mallets from denser and heavier woods work fine but translating that into a specific size is not the practical approach. You can make the mallet to the sizes and then, after using it for a few hours, change the length by 6mm on each malleting face first. This will make little functionality difference. Then you can tale some off the four sides. That way you are customising according to personal feel without compromising the main work which is the mortising and fitting the handle.
29 January 2015 at 8:03 am #124057I think somewhere we are introducing one of those unknown sources here that might be better addressed now. There is no need to sand anything more than 250-grit, sometimes 350 max. Generally there should be no need to start as coarse as 80-grit either, unless the wood absolutely won’t plane because the grain is just too wild. If planed using a well sharpened plane, the surface (sometimes) is more likely to need roughening a little, to give the surface tooth for the finish. Wetting the surfaces of boards isn’t a good idea and especially unconstrained materials and thin flat panels especially. Wet a board with water and it has no choice but to curl and crawl all over the place. There is no doubt that we can indeed go too far with everything, the questions is, how did we get to there?
10 January 2015 at 9:35 pm #123348I think you’re right. I take many things like this for granted. My hands are total muscle and thicker than most mens hands in that the having no pudginess they look the same size. I try not to use my fists to hammer joints together even though that’s what I do most of the time. I don’t people to hurt their hands thinking their hands are as hard as mine. It is the same with squeezing squares and leverage too. even though I am for ever trying to put myself in the shoes of the watcher, I tend to take some things for granted so this feedback is helpful.
11 December 2014 at 5:56 pm #122094Have you considered finding a glass or stainless steel dish inside the wooden part or parts? Whereas I might think that epoxy would indeed seal the whole surface skin-like, I would still be concerned about the longterm immersing or exposure of epoxy to untested substances because there are no guarantees that the surface is indeed perfectly sealed. I think the main problem here is not the exposure to wood but surfaces that might no be sealed or unflawed. Food trapped might well be harbouring bacteria.
27 November 2014 at 6:49 pm #121557Just wanted to add something in here. I try not to interfere with the forum because everyone has input, but just looking at the answers I see how much everyone has grown through the past two years. I know that this is not all through wwmc, but a lot of it is and I am amazed at how well our endeavour to train people is becoming so successful. So, I say all of that to say a great big THANK YOU!!!
21 June 2014 at 9:54 pm #58702I’m not sure what to say Salko except thank you so much for taking the time to write. We have so much planned for the future that we hope will indeed progress the future of woodworking for everyone.
31 May 2014 at 2:26 am #57732You could go either way but I think I liked the idea of laminating first (after surface planing the laminated surfaces first)because then I have the weight of the benchtop to plane on and I complete two tasks at once in that I level and remove the rounded corners in the one task. The set up of the scrub in a #4 plane works for roughing or scrubbing off too.
7 May 2014 at 9:08 am #56865I would that everyone started out without the honing guide as I did. In a few hours I was away and never looked back in 50 years of sharpening. But I do use one now and again if a bad iron comes in and needs restoring it means I can focus just on pressure and not correcting. there is nothing wrong with using a guide except the fiddle of installing which isn;t that big a deal really. You should just do it and see how you feel after a fair trial period. I think it would set you free and give you the versatility established skill gives you. Some people, not many, just a few in a thousand, just don’t get it. Should they give up woodworking just because someone said not to use a guide? Not at all. Use the guide in that case.
6 May 2014 at 3:13 am #56793A few years ago the boys and I installed some false beams for someone over on Anglesey and we needed a scalloped adze-like surface on the beams we made to make the appearance right. We created a successful plane using a coffin smoother like the one you describe you have and used it as a scrub plane very successfully and the beams looked like they were 200 years old to boot.
If you have a #3 Preston you have a rare find indeed. Perhaps it can be salvaged and restored to its former glory. I certainly wouldn’t be using it for a scrub if it is.
I have found the #4 anything will make a very decent scrub plane and you can get them for a buy it now for under 20 if prepared to wait a bit and keep watching. You could of course just buy an extra secondhand iron to shape and use it in a normal #4. You don’t have to have two planes, just two irons.17 April 2014 at 9:45 pm #56218This depends on a couple of things. What size are the leg sections and what joints have you used. I assume M&T and if so, what length are the tenons. usually we place the mortise holes off centre to maximise the length of the tenon. Going too near to the outer face of the leg will weaken the outer edge of the leg. Generally the legs of dining or working tables are around 3″ minimum and 4″ max. Not hard and fast. This means you can keep the mortise further away from the outer edge. 1/2″ is a good thickness.
If the table has well proportioned legs thicker tenons and the rightly positioned mortises, the table will be fine without a stretcher.7 April 2014 at 6:59 pm #52256I would run and hand saw down into the gap, cut a tapered cut along a scrap to create a 4-5mm wide feather-edged slither to fit into the gap and glue it into the opening and reclamp. i would weight a little t o make sure there is no more movement. It is most unlikely to move further. I suspect that the wood was insufficiently dry. Most likely over 20%. No matter how much glue, clamping or screws can stop this if the wood still has high MC.
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