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11 February 2019 at 7:23 pm #554984
Hello Edmund,
Shwartz sets out a set of “principles” (not rules)
Principle 8 about 3d clamping and principle 10 “Aprons and skirts are good to look at” calling them a “crime”.
Not one of the designs in this second book “Better benches” has an apron. They are all pretty much roubo variations.11 February 2019 at 8:16 am #554970Gents,
To clarify the question: Chris Shwartz roundly dismisses aprons because they prevent clamping to the top of the bench top. Which activities do you find such clamping absolutely indispensable?
My reason for asking is that I don’t have an electric router, haven’t made a chair and so on…
10 February 2019 at 11:31 am #554962I think the use of dogs can be difficult with deep aprons. I don’t keep mine in so get a lot of dust underneath the bench. Also if one does get pushed down trying to reach under it is awkward. I suppose the planing stop used in conjuction with a holdfast and doe’s foot os the answer there.
I’ve tried Pauls technique using cramps but found that the aluminium ones flex too much if I’m hogging material off a 3/4” board, like the toolbox sides. I’m going to have a go with the bolt on jobs where you use a piece of 25mm thick wood with drilled holes.When we set out to design and build a bench we invest a lot of time money and thought so I thank you all for your patient, experienced advice.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 2 months ago by Rowdy Whaleback.
9 February 2019 at 10:20 pm #554950Gents,
Thanks for the responses. Just to be clear Shwartz seems to be talking about using the underside of the roubo to clamp pieces down onto the top Around the edges. Jcat your add ons do work for this but what for?
I can’t think of any reason for having to do this. Shwartz uses a Moxon vise and clamps that. I built a bench on bench which is similar but use holdfasts from the top. Don’t see why you can’t do that. Planing doesn’t seem a reason, neither does making mouldings…25 September 2018 at 12:56 pm #552258Thanks Harry,
Thos Go-Ez ones are the nearest to what I’d hoped to find. There are lots of the Blum type but they all appear to need side plate connection to the carcass.
I will see if I can find a supplier here in the UK.23 September 2018 at 10:57 am #552111Well, I finished making my oak joiners tool box with “impossitails” and I’m pleased with the end result.
Deeping (thicknessing/re-sawing)the 7” oak planks was a workout but worth it.
This was for my wife to store her crochet stuff in. I made it 2’ wide instead of the original width. If I were to do it again I might have reduced the height to keep the nice proportions of the original.
The daring diagonal dovetails were risky bit great fun to make and with careful measuring fit really well.- This reply was modified 5 years, 7 months ago by Rowdy Whaleback.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.31 August 2018 at 7:32 am #550792Rich, Sven-Olof and Harry,
All good, encouraging advice, thanks. It looks like I will go down concrete base route, particularly as the mix could come from a lorry (It may even equal the cost but I had read that a company may not deliver small quantities- you have put that to bed).
What is the frost line? I can’t work out wether it’s a thing here in the UK, Harry as you say most instructions say to pour 4 inches or so.
Cheers all,
Rowly15 August 2018 at 4:50 pm #550248Hello Casey and all,
Thanks for the kind words. Good luck with yours!28 July 2018 at 10:41 am #549666Another amazing upgrade I have discovered is…Tallow!
I’ve been using Paul’s oil in a can for a while now and use it for tool storage and when ripping stock as a saw lube. I find I have to re-apply the oil fairly frequently.
I have been looking through Roy Underhill’s Woodwrights PBS show and he discusses tallow. I gave it a go and it’s marvelous stuff. It doesn’t seem to disappear as quickly as 3 in 1 and keeps a saw blade gliding far longer.
oh and it makes my shed smell like Sunday dinner. Bonus!24 July 2018 at 9:05 am #549569Just to add my input…
I have the Pinie scrub plane. It’s lightness and the way it slides across the surface is great for hogging off chunks when thichessing by hand. I have since rounded my number 5 1/2 blade and tend to go with this more often. Just depends how much material I want to take off.24 July 2018 at 8:58 am #549568Peter,
Thats a very fine looking design. I’ve just made my first scratch stock from Garret Hacks video. I’m thinking of converting an old guage for times when I need a more detailed pattern or further from the edge.
If you don’t mind me saying, you could round the other end of your fence and turn it around for circular/rounded applications.24 July 2018 at 8:43 am #549563I was just thinking about starting a similar thread on useful tools but I will add mine here.
Having visited Paul’s new premises the other week I noticed he uses a mechanical pencil sharpener which I now find fantastic. I used to use a mechanical pencil but now have 3-4 super pointed regular pencils sharpened in seconds which I keep in an old pewter tankard on my bench.
Next, I really like my Veritas saddle square. I got the longer one for bringing marks around two edges at once.
Finally a medium sized “detailing” brush I got in a set from Amazon for my car. It’s great for cleaning sawdust from my tools, particularly my planes before putting them away. (Mine don’t have the writing on as in the picture.)[attachment file=”549564″]
[attachment file=”549564″]
- This reply was modified 5 years, 9 months ago by Rowdy Whaleback.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.16 December 2017 at 3:16 pm #407428Larry, Smokyrick thanks,
Larry, sorry, I may have confused the issue talking about the veritas. It just so happened for that bit of work the depth came to exactly what I needed. Mr Barron recommends (and sells) the Japanese saws which have a greater depth, however he does acknowledge that once a cut is made it becomes its own jig. I have made Pauls dovetail guide but have only ever used it for marking out.
Smokyrick, you have summed up the issue and I had never thought of the “motors” thing. Apparently there is a whole movement of “un-plugged” woodworking that perhaps my reading on t’internet became victim to.
Kind regards and happy Christmas
- This reply was modified 6 years, 4 months ago by Rowdy Whaleback.
15 November 2017 at 10:47 am #367008Ed, your bench sounds interesting, have you got any pics? I don’t currently have a tool well and can do without it I reckon.
Alan, my current bench is fairly standard, like an English bench already. I understand what you mean about the dog, my 9” eclipse has one. I really meant to cut a piece of wood as attached (I must get a stylus for my fruit based device)Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.14 November 2017 at 5:17 pm #366340Tom,
I wondered the same about the tails on the sides or ends. I reasoned that it has to do with the engineering of the joint. It is more likely that things are going to slide back and forth (say pencils in a pencil box) and push against the joints. With the pins on the ends they are less likely to burst open…?
Rowly -
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