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maybe a bit late here, but you could carefully grind off the old pins and drill holes as close as possible to the originals. shorten and point the drill bit/ bits and use them as new pins.
keep them short or they’ll break in use. drill the holes a fraction bigger than the new pins and set them in place with a bit of epoxy. A pillar drill would be best for the job,take it handy, with the bits well up in the chuck or they’ll break.Use a centre punch to locate your starting point for the holes.
I thought i heard Paul mention something about using piano wire of a suitable gauge for pins which maybe a better job.
don’t try to weld anything it will mess up the the steel slide and set fire to the timber .
in any case it would be impossible to weld something so smallhello
I’m not an instrument maker but if i was trying to do what you are doing i would cut two templates the same (cut and shape them screwed together to ensure accuracy) then put one on each face of your blank lining them up using a square and measuring or gauging equi-distance from the blade of a square. mark around them and work to the lines.
Two points in diagonally opposite corners (so to speak) would line them up.There is one point that should be borne in mind in relation to modern technologies.
The industrial revolution brought about the mass production of hand tools which most of us use in woodworking.
The natural progression of this revolution and advance in technologies led to the near extinction of hand work.
While manufacturers of old had some pride in what they produced their principle motivation was to make money.
This is the same with manufacturers today.The pursuit of Money.
My point is you cant use these technologies on whatever level and then decry their evolution.
It’s a double edged sword. I don’t believe that future generations will be any more or less interested in hand work in whatever field than those who have gone before.
The reality is advancement in technology in the developed world has taken the hard hum drum graft out of woodworking in particular which crippled men and sent them to an early grave as they had no choice but to do it for ten and twelve hours a day everyday.
It’s too easy to romanticize the old ways when you engage in them merely as a hobby.if using “sand paper” try emery cloth.
its available in all grits and is very durable,much more so than wet and dry paper.
it works great if lubricated with wd 40 or similar
the coarser grades are good for flattening plane soles and irons etc.
its usually sold in lengths of 1M or multiples there of.(also available in sheets but rolls are better for our purposes)
widths are generally 50 or 100 mm.
100mm is best as it takes the width of a plane sole or iron.
get good quality stuff clean it during and after use (just a wipe of a rag) and it will last a long time.
it must of coarse be used on a flat surface and make sure to lubricate and clean.hello just thought id add my two pence worth.
i know this seems like a stupid question but is the cap iron mated to the flat side of the blade ?
secondly straight and flat are not the same thing.
its possible for the sole of the plane to be straight along its length on both sides and twisted
at the same time(out of plane)
a Pair Of winding sticks would show up any twist there might be.
regardless of anything else if you have to put the blade out so far to get a bite the sole must
bowed.
i take it you watched the video on restoring and fettling a hand plane by paul and the crew.
There’s not much in the way of possible problems that they hav’nt covered,
sometimes the frog rocks a bit on the plane bed which can be remedied by filing a little off one or other of lower machined surfaces on the frog itself.
i’ve doctored a fair few planes but never seen this to cause a big problem
is it a new or old stanley.
the newer ones take a lot of work to get them going properlyHello i have a question for those in the know.
Does Anyone know what the plates on disposable saws are made from? is it carbon steel
with the teeth pulse hardened. (whatever that is)
If its only the teeth are hardened the rest of the plate could be used for all manner of things.
It seems an awful waste when you think of what must be the hundreds of thousands of these saws that are dumped every year.Hi Ed
if your thinking about getting a band saw get good one with at least a 24 inch square table.
some makes have a sliding fence which is handy for rough cross cutting small stuff. due to the table size on even the biggest machines your very limited on length when cross cutting.
a band saw with a #
course rip blade is great for ripping wider stuff as long as its set up properly.
for small stock a bench saw would work better you can double the height/depth of cut by ripping from both sides.cross cutting can be accurately done with a sled you can make yourself. theres loads of ideas for these on you tube.
as far as shaping goes, a good jigsaw with a blade thats suited to what your cutting will do all most all a band saw will do but not as fast.
i have a bandsaw, jigsaw and bench saw and i think for small stock you would get better use out of a decent table saw than a bandsaw
thats just an opinion of coursedaragh.
Evening all (evening in this part of the world anyway)
I agree with all jude says.
I have a tool box about 28 inches long by 15 by 15 with just everyday hand tools in it,
its really a two man job to lug around but manageable on my own.
I’m threatening a long time to make two smaller ones that are more portable.
Still we must remember the owner of the chest that Paul restored and replicated
was as strong as as an ox from the nature of his work and the hardship of the times he lived in. God rest his soul.
No labour saving devices or electricly operated anything in his time.
Another point is the original owner of the chest probably carried only the essentials in it.
thats my tupece hapney worth anyway.daragh rusty holmes ireland.
hello there
what you propose is, i think, a geometrical impossibility.
the only way to double the number of teeth is to wipe it clean and start again.
however if i were you i’d leave it alone as rip saws go its not overly coarse.
a saw of that size is not meant for the fine work that a twelve tpi rip saw in a tenon saw is intended for.
its more for ripping boards for finishing with the plane.
looking at the picture the teeth look to be 90 degrees to the line of points i.e the toothed edge of the saw which can be a little jarring in use.
try tipping the teeth back 5 degrees (to 85) it makes for smoother operation although slightly less efficient. hope i’m not telling you what you all ready know. -
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