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I can’t answer your question, but will give you my thoughts on work benches. FWIW…
I think the Shwartz iteration of the Roubo bench is the best bench for my purpose. And one day I will build one.
I intended to build the ‘garden’ version of Paul’s bench and was about to begin when he teased the smaller version. So I built it instead. I reasoned that I could build it quicker, get on to some projects and then use it to build the Roubo bench. I installed a vise as per Paul’s design and also drilled the top and use holdfasts. I do clamp to the front of the bench just as Paul does using the same type of clamps. When I build the Roubo bench it will have the sliding dead man instead of the apron. Both serve the same purpose.
The stretchers mortised into the legs and the legs dovetailed into the top make the Roubo a more challenging build and are more time consuming to complete. Paul’s ingenious wedged leg design was fun to build and works perfectly.
So pick a design and go for it!!!
- This reply was modified 5 years ago by P McC.
I laminated SYP for my benchtop and experienced the tearout of the softer growth rings. The harder growth rings planed just fine. Tried different planes, all very sharp. Unable to avoid the tearout. The wood, ripped from 2 X 12 big box store construction grade lumber, though kiln dried, was noticeably wet. And I was working in my, open on three sides, leanto in very humid conditions. So I gave up on trying to make the benchtop as smooth as a dining room table and began using it for its intended purpose. Woodworking.
Hi AT, You certainly could use wood filler. But that may not be strong enough. I would use thickened epoxy, but I am a boatbuilder, biased toward epoxy. Another solution would be wood glue thickened with wood powder. All easier than cutting a slot and fitting a strip of wood. Perhaps not as neat looking as the wood strip.
Hi Chayne, I did just as you are doing when I made my bench. Legs flush with the vise side apron and increased size to about the size you are using. I used the 2X6 material for the barers and stretchers.
I don’t think you need to go to 4X4 or 4X6 stuff unless you want the extra weight or just for looks. My benchtop is 5″ thick so it is heavy enough.
The legs are actually laminated 2X4 and 4X4 with a length of 2X6 laminated to the wide face of the leg to make it flush with the vise side apron. I used thickened epoxy resin for the leg glue-up. I am very pleased with the modifications to the legs. The stability of Paul’s design with the weges negates the need for lengthwise stretchers IMO.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 1 month ago by P McC.
If you could try planing with or at least handing a few different numbers it might help you make a decision. I have numbers 3,4, 4 ½, 5 and 6 at my bench. I almost never use the #3. Too small for my hand. I reach for the 4 ½ or 5 first because they fit my hand best. If I need a smaller plane I use the #60 ½ block plane. I have a Fulton the same size as a Stanley #4 but is clunkier and much heavier. I ground the blade to make it a very good scrub plane and use it often. It seems like the extra weight helps when hogging off rough wood.
Of course I have rasped all the totes to give my little finger more room, and shaped them to be more comfortable to hold.
FWIW… Have made three of Paul’s rag/oil cans. I used soft flannel cloth for two of them and they work as advertised. Then I used a harder denim-like fabric for the third one. This one does not freely wick the oil onto the metal. I’m sure that the harder cloth is the reason.