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Thanks for the advice all. I hadn’t heard of the Worksharp before, but I guess that’s another thing to consider.
Having watched some high speed grinders I can see how the dust could get everywhere though.
I’d be fine with slow shaping/grinding to be honest, as long as it’s quicker and less tiring than using sandpaper on glass I’ll be happy.
The Tormek does look good, my only worry is that I’d be paying for a lot that I wouldn’t use (since I’d just be using it for shaping/grinding, not sharpening/honing really).
@deanbecker that’s a great idea, no-one but me will know 🙂
@deanbecker thanks, that was the only use I could think of. I guess it could be annoying after a while, some ply would definitely fix it (but look a bit ugly). Can always see if I can some offcuts from the original apron lying around somewhere.
@markbannon unfortunately not, it was due to me messing up measuring the height on the bench top side of the tool well and transferring it to the other.Thanks for the links/videos/feedback, I hadn’t seen those before. Looks like Paul uses a bunch of work holding techniques that I hadn’t thought about before.
It sounds like I can go ahead with his bench build and see how it works out, guess I can always add another vise (or tail vise) and holes/stops later if I really need them.
I went on a short weekend woodworking course with a heavy focus on improving sawing skills.
One of the things which we did that helped me a lot was to set up a mirror opposite where we were sawing (vertically 90 degrees from the bench).
The teacher got us to saw very slowly and to keep checking our body positions in the mirror, and also to keep looking at the lines marked in front, on top, and on the back (in the mirror) very frequently, so that we could stop and notice when something was out.
Another main thing he focused on was getting us to focus on moving our sawing arm with nothing getting in the way (i.e. making sure it could always move straight forwards and back without being forced to the side).
Other than that, we mostly just did lots and lots of test cuts on scrap wood, making minor corrections one one thing at a time (e.g. if the cut was out of vertical, just focusing on fixing that, rather than trying to fix everything at once).
[quote quote=410518]When you have it fully seated and there is a gap at the back but not at the front, is it square then? If not, then maybe you need to shave a little off the back of the tenon to allow it to sit straight. That is all I can come up with right now.[/quote]
Unfortunately not – when it’s fully seated, there’s a gap at the back but not front, but it’s still out of square there.
All I can think is that maybe the mortise was cut at a very slight angle rather than being 90 degrees down?
@btyreman Thanks for the pointer – I didn’t even know that microfinishing film existed, looks a lot less hassle than sticking down sandpaper.
One other question, how do the micron sizes of the film match up with grit sizes? Lower micron sizes would mean smaller particles which means higher grit?
- This reply was modified 6 years, 7 months ago by Dave C.
Using a sharpie definitely helped me see what the issue was, thanks for the suggestion. I’ve attached an image now, looks like the blade (it’s from a 2nd hand plane from ebay) needs a lot more metal removing to reach the very edge (which still has some sharpie marks on it after sharpening a bit).
That leads to another question – without a bench grinder (my workshop is a corner of my living room, so no room for one!), is there a suggested way of removing large amounts of metal quickly? It’s taking a very long time even on the coarsest diamond stone I have (250 grit I think). I was also wondering how I’d do that if the blade ever got a nick in it.
Should I look for a coarser 120 or 80 grit stone? Or move to sandpaper for that? Or is it basically impossible to do without power tools?
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