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i had the same problem in some old oak studs i think got extremely hard. what ehisey is saying makes good sense although i could cut other softer woods. a dull plane in oak just gives more resistance its hard to believe it would get so dull it couldn’t initialize a cut. its got to be the angle presented to the wood. let us know what you find out i have two laminated sections for a work bench leaning against the wall i have yet to wind up and true because of this problem
If you order boards, the store clerk rounding them up for you will not care if they are straight or bent or whatever. You will most likely end up with the rejects everyone else went through. They walk up pick threw them and put the ones they don’t want back on top of the stack and those are the ones the clerk will grab for you the ones on top, that’s the way it works. I would go to the store and pick your boards, put them on a cart and tell them you want these delivered to you, YOU ARE PAYING THEM. remember that and if they cause trouble give them hell and talk to a manager. Maybe you know somebody who can meet you there and haul them for you? give them gas money or whatever.
Table saw and a planer are big investments for someone getting their feet wet i think. Super cheap models wont do you justice and you’ll always fight them and be unhappy. However the heavy duty jobsite type will be nice if you have the room and relatively inexpensive for what they do. I’m not saying you shouldn’t get either they’re both nice for roughing a lot of work. But do keep in mind that thickness planners do not flatten your boards a twisted board go in twisted and comes out twisted. If you put a bent board threw the table saw the side on the fence will either ride the fence and bind it all or you put a cupped board threw and the side getting cut isnt square because your boards not flat to the table. You can somewhat remove defects with both tools with multiple passes removing less material thats not all so enjoyable. Manufacturers recommend putting your boards threw a joiner to flatten and square pieces on one side first and then use those.
If you choose hand tools to true your timber or machine, both ways you end up removing the same amount of material to get perfect boards. Most likely they will move again slightly after you cut and plane them and expose new grain anyway. Hope this helps
i really like the dewalt 20v brushless lightweight high power with a clip to put on your pocket to get your piece set level ready with the screw and then pop it out and put it in. feels really good in the hand durable and the brushless motors run so much smoother and cleaner than the brushed motors takes less battery life and less likely to burn out. i wouldnt trade it for any drill on the market. you can get the impact/drill combo for way cheaper than buying both seperate if your interested in that its nice for drilling holes and popping in the screws without changing your bit over and over and over. the impact is just better for putting in any screw i use the drill only for drilling holes.
the milwaukee makes good heavy duty tools but because of their batteries i wouldnt recommend them for their price.
Thanks for that recommendation @chadmagiera ive been looking at wood id books on amazon to help study and identify species and this looks to be the best to me im going to purchase this book.
I would I think it will be just fine with two part epoxy. Will probably look good too.If it’s an inch thick and the cracks 1/16 deep or its half inch thick and you’ve got an 1/8 or more deep ya know it’s hard to evaluate your piece of wood and the strength it has surely it will hold a cup of coffee without epoxy regardless. Those were all filled with epoxy on my tool chest.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.lol that is funny thanks for sharing that about the clerk. ive only been to woodcraft once and it was sweet but i ended up with temporary chisels and a haggard gents saw that went loose when i was first wanting to learn to cut dovetails. thankfully i came across paul sellers on youtube. i spent hours and hours flattening and polishing the sole and sides of my first plane and well, never again. my scraper has machine marks on the bottom and produces a flawless finish on the swirly reverse grain and around knots in black walnut. its an old stanley from ebay that cost 80 with the box and sharpening instructions that was basically brand new. i usually saw them around 30 or 40 in used condition maybe you could try finding one on ebay
Yeh I think they’re tool steel all the way up I’ll grind a new bevel it’ll just have to be a dwarf to the other four haha. Lost 5/8 Worth of chisel. Wow i thought they hand fit and finished those. But I guess they can still come loose from hand tight I made the handles for mine and I think two of them would do that come loose sometimes just wouldn’t compress tight inside. I stuffed a couple thick shavings folded up in there to act like shims and that has held up so far. Yes west system is very expensive. Luckily my chisels only came in around 120 for the five with one handle to copy from.
Thanks fellas for your feedback.
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