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He uses regular 3in1 oil. Using this way of application means there’s very little actually on the saw/plane and so translates to next to nothing on the actual workpiece. I’ve never had any problems with finishing, and it definitely seems better than using a wax. Also, where you’re using a chisel, quickly give the back a quick swipe.
Check out a video by Mary May on YouTube for some good advice on sharpening a gouge. http://youtu.be/i5iEhUoSi8Q
The reason Paul uses the rough side, as mentioned by Greg above, is because he doesn’t use a strop in the conventional sense and so requires lots of compound and the dampening effect.
Going from his last diamond stone, he expects a lot from a strop (1200->8000). This is the reason for all that force. This inevitably ends up in an edge which is rounded. Using it in this sense also means you push the most of the grit within the leather and leave the largest grits exposed, leaving you with a finish that is usually fouled with scratches.
A strops usual purpose is to realign a sharp edge, similar to steeling, not for actual sharpening. The presentation angle is usually constant in woodworking, unlike an edge used in food preparation, and so realigning merits very little.
I purchased them from here: http://www.tool-net.co.uk/p-366950/tool-net-900mm-aluminium-sash-clamp.html
Probably the cheapest on line.
I agree the method has been used for many many years. In Japan they have used finer natural stones for many years too, and from what I’ve read, have always resharpened the ura (iron back) with each sharpening, which I doubt was without thought. If you enquire with any major japanese plane iron maker, they will confirm back wear is the reason for resharpening the ura carefully each time. I’ve found it helped find a lot sharper edge for finish planing when done well on western irons too.
I know we can delve very far into sharpening, but I simply wanted to point out a mistake which at least I made. This is only applicable to chisels. Like Paul does in his sharpening video, he uses the strop to pull the burr once sharpened on the back. I found my edges were rounding over (after a while), and I could no longer pare into corners very well, hence my suggestion for keeping the final grit used to flatten the back to always hone the back to remove the burr, alleviating the problem, which helped me a lot.
Perhaps I’ll avoid the sharpening threads as it seems quite a sensitive topic.
Hi Craig. I don’t dont believe it’s rubbish. In fact for the cost of some sandpaper and some honing compound, you can definitely find a working edge, but I just done believe it’s as good as it claims, and unfortunately does have it’s downs. I’ve used this method for a while and found if you introduce the three menzerna metal polishing compounds instead of the single green compound, you can arrive at an even better edge, and those compounds are quite cheap.
I am only trying to point out problems I had been having, and perhaps it may be of help to somebody else. On a chisel using predominantly for paring, there is little wear on the back, but a plane iron does show wear, and so should be refreshed each time for a better cutting edge. My point above, perhaps not so clear, was that after a while of pulling the back of chisel on a strop, you will indeed round the edge, which is not desirable.
In working I’ve found this step isn’t required as such, but does help to achieve a much better cut when finish planing or tasks where a much finer edge helps.
Apologies if I offended you or Paul, Craig.
One thing to note once you’ve flattened the back is the subsequent removal of the wire edge you’ll develop when sharpening. Be sure to keep your final grit handy on a flat surface for the removal of the wire edge. Removing this on either the 1200 grit diamond stone is not great, and using a leather strop is an even worse idea.The strop will undoubtedly round the edges, and you’ll lose the fine control you gain from a perfectly flat back. Now this depends entirely on the work you carry out, on very fine work, this is very apparent and I’ve experienced it for the worse using this method. On plane irons which do indeed wear on the back, you should be honing the back each time you sharpen, because the prevailing mentality is that you only sharpen the back once, which is clearly nonsense.
After lengthy research I’ve opted for Sigma power ceramic stones. 1000/6000/13000. They claim to provide a super edge. As for longevity of an edge, it seems there’s a lot more to it than what our simple PS method will lead you to believe. http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/index.html
I’ll let you know how I get on with the stones, and possibly do some testing.
If any of you still are interested in diamond plates, I’d suggest staying clear of the coarser grades. Perhaps will little use, the finer grades may last longer. Here’s what Alex from classichandtools had to say “Surprised to hear of your problem with EZE-LAP, I had considered them quite reliable. We used to sell them but we noticed a few problems with double sided stones not being as flat as they should be. We now sell DMT Dia-Sharp and they have been fantastic, not one return in four years. Like all diamond stones they loose their cutting edge a little but nothing quite like you have experienced.”
Ed- I’m not getting thick or out of square edges. It seems because there is little feedback from the angle you choose to sharpen at, as you don’t have a resting point on a convex bevel to register on the sharpening stone with, I was finding I’d keep increasing the angle as the tip seemed my only point of register. I take your points above about grinding away at the bevel again, but doing this each time leads to a very varied, and hardly repeatable practise. Admittedly this doesn’t matter until you’re aiming for a super sharp finish from the plane.
As for the stropping, it’s not actually there to provide extra sharpness, as if that’s what you’re relying on it for, you’ve failed at achieving the correct sharpness from the stones. Even how you remove the wire edge can affect the quality, but this is seldom discussed. Pop your edges into a honing guide and compare the edge you get from a consistent angle, and a freehand edge with multiple facets. A flat bevel is much easier to sharpen because of the feedback possible. Take a quick look at how a Kanna blade is sharpened to see correct registration.
Apologies if it sounds like I’m bashing the PS method of sharpening, but like I said earlier, I’ve failed to achieve any consistency, especially on thick irons like those in bevel up planes.
I’m sure we can debate sharpening methods endlessly.
Overall, my point was that I find the claims made for these diamond stones to be a little exaggerated. I see little point in stones which do indeed continue to cut, but cut with a magnitude less cutting power in only several months.
I’d like to add an update to my reply above.
I bought the extra coarse and coarse plates to grind new angles on my plane irons and chisels, nothing too big of a change, just a few degrees. I’ve had the plates for just under 7 months, and I work full time woodworking. My usual system comprised of the eze lap plates and menzerna compounds to strop with.
Just yesterday I got round to a problem I’ve been having sharpening using the PS method, but that I can explain further down. So I decided to change the bevel angle a little on a block plane iron and after long hard struggle with the coarser plates, I was only half way there. Quite disappointing considering that was the only reason for their purchase. The 150 grit side wouldn’t even cut as quick as a well worn sheet of 240 grit sandpaper.
I emailed the supplier and they’ve issued me a full refund, which I’m very happy with. Otherwise I would have been left with some very expensive paper weights.
I can see PS point on continued abrasion, but they’re a far fetch from the original stated grit after only several months, and frankly you’re wasting your time using those sides anymore, and dare I say, purchasing them in the first place.
Now my problem with the PS method of sharpening, which I admit, I may be the only one suffering from. All my plane irons and chisels had the usual convex bevels. I hadn’t checked my angles on the bevels since the first few times after changing to this approach. It seems I have been having a lot of trouble maintaining the angle at the cutting edge as the bevel became steeper. This was definitely the issue with bevel up planes where it does take a while longer to achieve a fresh sharpness. Hence my need to pop them back in a jig and reset the angles now and again. It seems virtually impossible to maintain feedback on the angle when you have a convex bevel when compared to a single flat bevel and the way you’d sharpen a kanna blade. I understand that exact angles are not of paramount importance, but some of mine were becoming way off. These diamond stones do wear prematurely and provide nothing like the stated longevity. I’m afraid I’d have to say I’d take the fresh cutting surface of a waterstone any day over these diamond stones.
My experience so far with EZE-LAP diamond plates are not quite as the above. I’ve had them for several months now. I noticed fresh plates do indeed feel very coarse, and you’ll notice this wears away quickly, but this is simply the plate levelling out.
I’ve always used an abrasive belt cleaner with my plates to remove swarf, and normally wash them at the end of the day. I’ve flattened several chisels and I’m still noticing a very good cut from both my extra coarse, and coarse.
As for flattening planes, I found my granite plate to be within 0.004″, and only cost me £10 for a size large enough to do a Jack plane. If you keep using an abrasive belt cleaner, this helps make the job a lot quicker.
Your cheapest route to a sturdy workbench will be to fix a work surface to a wall. Although this is somewhat limited in its use, it will serve you during your year off. What I’d advise against is building a light workbench to use with hand tools. You’ll find it virtually unusable as it moves around whilst you attempt even the lightest of hand tool woodworking.
Yes, I’m in the UK. This is their website, http://www.greatbarrsawmills.co.uk. You may have to call for more up to date prices.
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