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I just bought the EZE-LAP:
EZE-LAP 81C 3 by 8 Coarse Diamond Stone
EZE-LAP 81F 3 by 8 Fine Diamond Stone
EZE-LAP 81SF 3 by 8 Super Fine Diamond Stonefrom AmazonSmile.com (note the “smile” is a part of Amazon that lets you donate to a charity… which I highly recommend as a convenience if you have a favorite charity).
They were all about $50 USD each (the coarse was a little more). They were sold by Amazon.com LLC and so Free Shipping (which is for items that cost more then $35 for the order… unless you have Amazon Prime). Looks like they still have them in stock. They work very well. I made a wood base similar to Paul’s pattern, but I added a piece of leather on the side which I may use for a strop someday. Note, these all have those little rubber feet, which I just left on and pushed down in the wood recess. It made them very snug and I can still take them out if needed. I don’t know if this is technically a good approach but it works great for me and all my planes and chisels are good and sharp!
I agree, the WD40 + EG works the old fashioned way. I have had some good success with pure Citric Acid (food grade, comes dry, mix with water) and a very carefully timed soak. I did do it too long on an old #45 once, and it didn’t pit but did change the color of the finish. It turned it kind of pinkish or maybe copper color. The tool is a user though, so I don’t care what color it is – it works great. For me, the Citric Acid soak works for the irons, screws, nuts, etc… extremely well. I still follow that up with a good WD40 + EG though. And, actually EG + Aluminum Foil works, but I started thinking it was the abrasion that was really doing the trick once the Foil gets bunched up.
Yes, time will tell. It is interesting that the 1/2″ blades that came with the router are actually “Made in Canada” but the rest are not. I used the 1/2″ last night making a new shooting board out of phenolic ply wood and it worked great, but I don’t think the ply wood makes for a very good test. I will be trying out the other blades soon. I just thought it was sort of deceptive, but it probably said something in the fine print before I bought them.
Thanks I will try those suggestions out. On another plane…. my son just brought me an old and VERY rusty no 5. I took it completely apart, soaked the iron / cap iron in some water with citric acid overnight and wow! That worked really well. I will try to post some pictures of that and the 71 when I am done cleaning them up. I was amazed at the amount of rust that came off using that technique. Not for nickel plating though. I am pretty sure it wouldn’t be good for the japanning surfaces too.
Yes, at least according to the stamps they are still built in the USA. I really like them a lot. In fact, I ended up buying 2. I put the other one on the end of the bench for a tail vise. I put a couple of 2X4s to cap the end so I didn’t screw the face into the end grain. This worked out well because it pushed the vice away from the bench, giving it some distance when sawing, etc. I think one of my sons will be using that one while I use the front one for some projects we have planned.
I have read some good reviews, and some bad ones. I have to say I didn’t agree with the bad ones at all. They were both really solidly built and relatively easy to install. The only problem I had was fitting them to the underside, because my bench thickness is thicker than they install to so I had to make some quick housing dados.
ok, I read the Paul’s blog and comments. I was taken in by the “scary sharp” words. I had invisioned that scene from The Bodyguard where a woman’s scarf fell on a sword and just the weight of the scarf caused it to cut in two when it hit the edge. That to me was “scary sharp” and I think it would be fun to have something that sharp. Maybe that was just Hollywood – idk. Anyway, I did buy the dmt duo and it has been working great for my purposes. Well, that and a strop with jewler’s rouge for final polishing.
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