Bedside Cabinet: Episode 1
Posted 15 November 2017
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With all the stock prepared, Paul uses his mortise and tenon method to get exact sized joinery. First he uses the chisel and router to cut the tenons to desired thickness.
What brand of chisels is Paul using in this new studio? I would like to add another set or two to my bench.
Thanks
Hello Todd,
Paul has being using the Aldi chisels for a while. He redid the handles as follows:
https://paulsellers.com/2014/12/changing-the-shape-of-ash-chisel-handles/
Thanks, Phil
Love the way Paul practices what he preaches. He’s got loads of chisels, some vintage, some modern and expensive but he’s using the Aldi ones showing us that they’re not just a “make do” but are good enough for anybody’s use.
I think Paul has caused a “run” on Aldi chisels. I can never find them in the store. 🙂
It’s not that so much, they just don’t keep them in stock… It’s their business model. Lidl is the same.
Thanks Philip. I will keep looking for them at the local Aldi.
I believe the Lidl grocery stores in the U.S. have the same chisels for the same price but with a different brand name. Plus they have good cookies there, so if the chisels are gone, at least it’s not a wasted trip.
Great video! Just out of curiosity, why does the router have a wood sole attached to it? Thanks! -Matt
1. makes the sole bigger to allow you to work across larger tenons
2. wood on wood slides easier – it’s the reason Paul oils metal plane soles but not wooden ones..
Wow, I love the new mortise and tenon method. So simple yet so accurate. Looking forward to trying it out.
What an efficient way to cut the tenons! I was wondering how you would get the rails to the right length given the saw kerf — but cutting in the middle of the tenon itself takes care of the problem! Brilliant!
Nice video! I like the technique for cutting the tenons so fast.
I’m watching the videos for quite a while now and I know Paul tries to use tools the average garage-woodworker might own but I`m still wondering about the multiple low angle planes (mostly Veritas) in the background. Does Paul use those when not shooting videos?
What´s his opinion on low angle planes compared to the older Stanley pattern planes? Since I have both a modern low angle plane and an old Stanley it might be interesting what tools (chisels and planes) he would prefer if he wasn´t doing the videos with the with focus on the average garage-woodworker (or am I the only one who´d like to know that?)
Best regards from Germany.
Btw I love your show! Learned so much! Really appreciate you guys doing it! Especially in times where everything has to be quick, easy and losing quality by speeding things up. I sometimes really like to step back and focus on what´s really important… which is enjoying the way not only the result.
So great job! Go on 🙂
Paul is a bit of a plane collector. He mentioned he does use the other planes, but in his day to day work he’ll go for the normal no. 4 most of the time.
Also, see: https://paulsellers.com/2014/04/questions-answered-why-bevel-up-bevel-down-low-angle-high-angled-planes-are-equal-to-task/
Thanks, that helped a lot 🙂
Hi, I like the new technique too.
Best regards from Germany 🙂
First, I like the nightstand project. The first video is both interesting and informative. I look forward to watching and studying this entire project series — as I have all the other videos on Woodworking Masterclass.
Second, a comment on the new set and the productions in it.
1. The cleaner, sparer look of the new “shop” results in more focus on what Paul is doing. It is visually very effective.
2. The lighting seems very good. Combined with the lighter background of the set, the lighting really adds to the clarity of the video.
3. The camera image seems a bit sharper and the camera’s focal point seems a bit closer to Paul and his work. Very nice.
4. The close-up camera shots are terrific. They really add a lot of informative detail to the video.
All of these touches result in a very clean, very effective video production, and I appreciate all the planning, the hard work and the professional skill that go into making these excellent videos.
Thank you!
I think that idea is good forward thinking, rather than one cut at a time and easier tenon cutting bridging across the two.
Thank you Paul and Team.
Why a 5/16 chisel? Not sure i have ever seen one.
I think it is due to the need to make the tennons as near to 1/3 of the width of the material as possible. The guide that is generated to cut the mortises will only cut the right size mortise on this basis.
I guess that as Paul made the router a little over the width of the chisel, there’s a little jiggery-pokery required if this is adapted to other projects with different material width sizes?
Lovely idea though, really creative.
8mm will do.
Hi, I like the new technique too.
Paul was the reason, that i bought a old Stanley 45, and a Stanley 4.
Yet I’m looking for a Stanley 5 or 6. Is there any difference between a Stanley 5 or an other Stanley 5 that i can find on ebay? The quality or the state of conservation could be different, thats clear to me., but it there more? Maybe is there a different between the generations? They are all Stanley Bailey Planes made in England.
Until Paul actually cut the pieces towards the end it didn’t fully register with me what he was doing this entire episode… What a fantastic method. I really can’t imagine there could be a quicker or more accurate way to complete all that work.
Agree. I prefer Paul’s earlier mortise and tenon tutorials in which he only sought to true one face and one edge.
I would’t consider this method to require machining. It does however require longer lengths. It certainly is hard work, but not sure if it’s any harder than doing the rails individually. I would tend to only use a thicknessing jig for smaller stock.
The exacting sizing is a requirement of frame making rather than non-traditional work, I think. This level of accuracy does take practice, which I certainly am still working on.
One of the joys of woodworking is trying different methods and choosing which suits the project we are working on, even if not using one single method.
Jut curious if there is any particular wood that would be better suited for a novice? I have plenty of white oak, red oak and soft maple. Some cherry and walnut and ash as well. Thanks
Steve M
I’m working on one in cherry, which I find to be a very stable and fairly easy-to-work wood. It does often have swirling, undulating grain but you quickly get used to it.
I was wondering about the issue of the saw blade width in cutting to the lines. If you cut to the line, then does the width of the saw blade through off the next segment? Would there be value in the technique Paul has shown before of making a double line (the width of the saw blade) so that the measure of the segment remains exactly as intended?
Do you mean when cutting the tenon piece down the middle? The small amount that is sawn will not be a detriment to the tenon. The fraction of a reduction in length is not an issue.
I share the comment about stock prep. There would be value in some film time illustrating the stock preparation. The precision obtained by Paul on his stock prep is impressive, but I struggle with this aspect. Actually, I struggle with many aspects of this project, but just staying with the stock prep,, his techniques for planing down to the 13/16th mark exactly would be interesting and educational.
I believe you are mistaken. Paul hand planes his wood to be 6 square and all the same dimensions. He says so right at the beginning of this video. He has videos showing exactly how to achieve that. Since I saw how to do that last year, I’ve been 6 squaring all my wood by hand, and dimensioning it precisely as well. it takes a little time, not much, but makes the entire remainder of the project ever so much easier.