1. Amazing!
    Interestingly enough, i was at an auction in Chester (UK) last week looking for a restoration project, and what did i see…. a table top constructed just like the chopping board. The table was described as made in ‘wartime Britain’, so 70 years old, and the top was as solid and tight as the day it was made.
    There is so much to learn from these video’s. I use a similar dowel method to join stair handrails to newel posts for customers. Although this is quite a traditional way to do this, I’ve found that there is not a better modern method that gets such a tight fit! The trouble is a lot of people are turned of because the dowel method looks complicated, but following i sequence of steps like you describe, along with practice, makes perfect.
    Anyhow thanks Paul and Joseph for the video, cant wait for the final installment!

  2. I’ve a question: Are the dowels glued? Let’s say one of the boards gets cracked over time (for any reason) and you want to replace it. Is it possible to drill trough the dowels in one side, change the piece and add a new pair of dowels? how about the offset?

  3. Hi Paul, Joseph,
    Ones again thank you, very inserting & i look forward to using the mothered soon if i ever complete my makeover of my small hand tool shop a new space which will be used only for hand tool use.
    Just sitting hare smiling really, at the thought of the projects which are in stick awaiting me. Clock insets sitting waiting, Okay for the coffee table which i just happen to really like i will keep my legs straight just a personal chose this time.
    Really enjoying all the videos’ site comments ex thought the card scrapper video was spot on & very clear, chip of the old block as they say.
    If anything i guess what i am saying is i like the way you are down to earth clear & to the point no flannel a good all round teacher making for ½ hours enjoyment
    Thank you

    1. I think the white oak would make a nice cutting board. If the multiple boards are glued together for the main panel, then the draw bore pins should work fine as you have described. Be sure to post pictures!

  4. I was lucky enough to pick up a brace and 24 bits (bundled like Paul’s) at our local swap-meet for $18. Now I just have to get the rust off them 😉
    If you are thinking of doing a “how to sharpen your bits” episode, I could use it.

    1. Might want to Google ” Electrolytic Rust Removal ” for easy to follow steps to removing rust without sanding/grinding away any parent material. i have tried this procedure a few times with excellent results after purchasing used tools from flee markets.
      Hope it helps

    2. Mike,
      If you’re in the US, you may wish to consider Evaporust as a method of cleaning the bits.
      Generally available at auto parts stores as well as others.
      I like this because it chemically removes the rust without damage to the steel and is reuseable and convenient for small parts derusting.

  5. [i]Exactly[/i] how I sharpen a pencil. Learned that when I helped build a timberframe building. I picked up a 2″ chisel recently (second hand-about 15 US) and that is my favourite pencil sharpener ever (after a full working over of the bevel). It’s handy for normal chisel and slick duty as well. Now I need a 3″ and a drilling machine to complete my timberframing kit. That is also where I learned to drill for draw-bore and tree-nails as well.

    Squaring up the legs for my bench today.

  6. I know this is a really old video series, but it feels like the is something missing between episode 3 and episode 4. I’m in the process of making a bread board now following along, and it would have been very helpful to see how to actually make the 4 tenon joints all line up just right so the two pieces of the breadboard fit together tightly. At the end of episode 3 we go from transferring the knife walls for getting the tight alignment of the second mortise and tenon joint to suddenly it’s all assembled in the start of episode 4.

    It would have been helpful to see where to make adjustments (and where not to) when fitting the second joint to maintain the tight fit of the two pieces that make up the main surface of the breadboard.

    I learned so much watching and re-watching the different steps, but then felt suddenly lost when it came to making sure I got the next 3 joints done correctly while maintaining the proper relationship with the other pieces.

  7. I don’t think that is shown in the video though? I think it’s just placed closer to the shoulder in a single direction? Correct me if I’m wrong? Which way would you offset the hole to bring the Center section together? Nearer to the center? Thanks in advance

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