Breadboard-end Cutting Board: Episode 4

Breadboard Cutting Board Episode 4

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In this episode Paul shows how to check for a final fit then he shows how to drill the hole and make the pegs. He shows two methods, the first is a minimalist approach with a chisel and a plane, then, for those who have them, how to make them using a dowel cutter.


  1. Ken on 3 July 2013 at 5:25 pm

    Great job guys, thanks for this one

  2. Eddy Flynn on 3 July 2013 at 5:31 pm

    another fantastic episode the hints and tips keep on coming thanks

  3. mark d on 3 July 2013 at 6:27 pm

    Interestingly enough, i was at an auction in Chester (UK) last week looking for a restoration project, and what did i see…. a table top constructed just like the chopping board. The table was described as made in ‘wartime Britain’, so 70 years old, and the top was as solid and tight as the day it was made.
    There is so much to learn from these video’s. I use a similar dowel method to join stair handrails to newel posts for customers. Although this is quite a traditional way to do this, I’ve found that there is not a better modern method that gets such a tight fit! The trouble is a lot of people are turned of because the dowel method looks complicated, but following i sequence of steps like you describe, along with practice, makes perfect.
    Anyhow thanks Paul and Joseph for the video, cant wait for the final installment!

  4. smfield on 3 July 2013 at 6:33 pm

    Great job guys, thanks for this one ….. Oh, lost again.

  5. pawpawdon63 on 3 July 2013 at 7:44 pm

    Sure left me hanging. Wish I could’ve seen the ends come together.

  6. avillalo on 3 July 2013 at 8:53 pm

    I’ve a question: Are the dowels glued? Let’s say one of the boards gets cracked over time (for any reason) and you want to replace it. Is it possible to drill trough the dowels in one side, change the piece and add a new pair of dowels? how about the offset?

  7. Matt Hess on 3 July 2013 at 9:03 pm

    Only Paul Sellers can make drilling a hole look so enjoyable 🙂 Such a joy to watch and learn. Keep up the great work!

  8. STEVEN COOKE on 4 July 2013 at 9:04 am

    Hi Paul, Joseph,
    Ones again thank you, very inserting & i look forward to using the mothered soon if i ever complete my makeover of my small hand tool shop a new space which will be used only for hand tool use.
    Just sitting hare smiling really, at the thought of the projects which are in stick awaiting me. Clock insets sitting waiting, Okay for the coffee table which i just happen to really like i will keep my legs straight just a personal chose this time.
    Really enjoying all the videos’ site comments ex thought the card scrapper video was spot on & very clear, chip of the old block as they say.
    If anything i guess what i am saying is i like the way you are down to earth clear & to the point no flannel a good all round teacher making for ½ hours enjoyment
    Thank you

  9. pawpawdon63 on 6 July 2013 at 2:13 am

    I have a QSWO board about 4″ wide. Could I use 4 boards instead of 2? And put the draw bore hole on the 2 innermost?

    • Steve Follis on 6 July 2013 at 2:49 pm

      I think the white oak would make a nice cutting board. If the multiple boards are glued together for the main panel, then the draw bore pins should work fine as you have described. Be sure to post pictures!

  10. mikeprutz on 10 July 2013 at 7:44 am

    I was lucky enough to pick up a brace and 24 bits (bundled like Paul’s) at our local swap-meet for $18. Now I just have to get the rust off them 😉
    If you are thinking of doing a “how to sharpen your bits” episode, I could use it.

    • fossil on 6 October 2013 at 12:50 am

      Might want to Google ” Electrolytic Rust Removal ” for easy to follow steps to removing rust without sanding/grinding away any parent material. i have tried this procedure a few times with excellent results after purchasing used tools from flee markets.
      Hope it helps

    • Craig on 7 October 2013 at 5:22 pm

      If you’re in the US, you may wish to consider Evaporust as a method of cleaning the bits.
      Generally available at auto parts stores as well as others.
      I like this because it chemically removes the rust without damage to the steel and is reuseable and convenient for small parts derusting.

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