Breadboard-end Cutting Board: Episode 3

Breadboard Cutting Board Episode 3

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This is the key episode in making this project. In this episode Paul shows how to cut the mortise and cut the haunches on the tenon. He also shows how to fit the tenon into the mortise.


  1. George Bridgeman on 26 June 2013 at 2:45 pm

    Thanks guys. I’ve got the stock for a couple of these cutting boards prepared and ready to go!


  2. Ken on 26 June 2013 at 5:15 pm

    Nice work guys, thanks for this one

  3. empeg9000 on 26 June 2013 at 8:55 pm

    Great video and thanks. My wife is very excited to get one of these.

  4. kelly on 26 June 2013 at 10:47 pm

    This looks like a good project to practice with.

  5. bobeaston on 27 June 2013 at 1:20 am

    Not that it really matters at this point … but it might later. The “face marking” arrow lines don’t match. The marks were probably made when this end piece was at the other end of the board.

    While it doesn’t affect these pieces fitting, it might later, if final assembly pays attention to these marks.

  6. Ken on 27 June 2013 at 1:39 am

    HaHa we sure have a lot of observant critics on this project. 😉

  7. RL on 27 June 2013 at 3:30 am

    outstanding camera work and presentation, thanks

  8. STEVEN COOKE on 27 June 2013 at 8:18 am

    Paul, Really enjoyable, the care you show using your tools to fit the joints must be an inspiration to us all. Taking the time not to rush, to enjoy every aspect of our time in our workshop, be that sharpening our tools, or laying up our timber section, before taking to finally dimensions, totally enjoyed all your videos thus far thank you.

  9. smfield on 28 June 2013 at 8:09 pm

    What’s wrong with mortise chisels anyway?

    • Anonymous on 28 June 2013 at 10:55 pm

      IMHO, It’s an extra expense.

    • Paul Sellers on 17 December 2013 at 11:46 am

      There is nothing wrong with using mortise chisels except if you don’t have them at the time you want to use them. Not having them shouldn’t stop you from the task at hand when they will do the same thing.

  10. smfield on 29 June 2013 at 12:07 am

    I guess Paul is just showing that you only need a minimal set of tools to do the majority of woodwork.

  11. Brad Cooper on 3 July 2013 at 4:30 am

    Paul, I was wondering the name of the clamps you used in this video. I tried to source the other clamps you use but have had no luck in Canada.

  12. STEVE MASSIE on 5 July 2013 at 12:04 pm

    Paul thanks for another en-lightning video, I enjoyed it very much. Seems I learn something new with every episode.


  13. friscomike on 10 December 2013 at 10:51 pm

    Greetings Paul and crew,

    Watching your videos has made me wonder about the tightness of your mortise and tenon joints. It seems your joints are much tighter than I have seen US woodworkers make them. I have tried to make the joints so that only hand pressure is needed to seat them. Are you ever concerned about the mortise splitting or is this a another good lesson for this Yankee joiner?

    With respect,

  14. Paul Sellers on 17 December 2013 at 11:43 am

    It’s important to have a sort of hand-in-a-tight glove fit. Big tenons have more surface friction and can be more problematic. The important thing is that tenon cheeks connect with mortise walls and that glue connects the two. All woods are different in terms of compression and so different woods can factor to determine some of this. The mortises should never be compromised by splitting and after several trials in fitting you will increase confidence to know exactly what will happen.

  15. BondiMacF on 25 February 2014 at 9:58 pm

    you mention getting seasoned/air dried wood over kiln dried.
    Why is that? What’s the difference between air seasoned and kiln dried wood?

    My local sawmill has both, and the seasoned wood is cheaper than the kiln dried wood, but it has a higher moisture content.

    Is that not a problem?
    thank you

  16. clairep on 15 September 2014 at 2:57 am

    It would be good to get an answer to the above question (I’m just downloading the eps now). Air dried wood where I am is also of higher moisture content than kiln dried. Is it an Australian thing?

  17. BrianJ on 15 September 2014 at 11:57 pm

    Ive posted a couple links that will hopefully flush through from previous blogs. Search ‘air dried’ and a couple come up. If i understand correctly, the seasoned you are referring to ‘may’ be of higher moisture because perhaps harvested this year or last. So sufficient time has not passed for it to have air dried/ seasoned enough, which may take months or years. The kiln dry method is force dried (artificial) to bring moisture content down so it can be sent to market faster.

  18. Jimmy Chrisawn on 17 February 2015 at 4:16 am

    Hello Paul and gang. Great work!
    This one I’m doing for my wife and mother-in-law.
    I’m a bit slow getting to this project. I’ve been finishing some other work. I do have a question though. Would it be feasible to chop the mortise hole before you plow the grove?
    Thanks Jim

  19. Larry Turner on 24 November 2019 at 6:38 pm

    I really enjoy watching your work skill.
    I’m working on a sugar chest reproduction that has bread board lid 3/4 ” thick.
    The plans show 3/4″ SQUARE dowels. Would appreciate any comments/suggestions.
    Thank You, Larry

    • Izzy Berger on 26 November 2019 at 8:38 am

      Hi Larry,

      Thank you for getting in touch.

      Could you provide us with more information to help us answer your query?

      Kind regards,

  20. Gordon Dayton on 6 December 2019 at 3:00 pm

    It is apparent that the fit is very tight in Paul’s work. And yet, we did hear a “tick” during fitting the tenon, possibly because oak is a hard wood and will not compress like a softwood might and the stress has to go somewhere. This being the case, the project will be under compression at the final dry fit. The bigger the tenons the more that stress will add up. Adding glue to the joinery should cause the wood to swell somewhat putting some additional stress on the joint. So here are my questions:
    1. Has Paul ever had work crack during glueing – if so is there a “fix” for that?
    2. Would it not be safer to aim for a slip fit and let the glue fill any voids – or is walking that tightrope the mark of a true craftsman?
    3. Finally, is there some factor that comes into play during glue setting that saves the project from (literal) failure?

    • Izzy Berger on 10 December 2019 at 11:51 am

      Hi Gordon,

      I passed on your question to Paul and below is his answer:

      1. Yes, if it does crack you just glue it and carry on. Not all cracks are caused by over tightness, there could be a separation of the cells that just pop within the joint.
      2. I would never ever use glue to fill a void, so I aim to get the joint as well fitting as possible, even to the point of high friction.
      3. I’m afraid I don’t understand this one.

      Kind Regards,

    • Ermir on 23 December 2019 at 4:42 pm

      On question 2:

      I recently ended up with a slim tenon on a table apron. I glued pine veneer on the cheeks to make it tight again, then glued the project the next day. It worked ok. Filling voids with glue is not a good idea.

  21. Luc Groenendijk on 6 December 2019 at 6:48 pm

    Just a general remark. I am viewing the video’s on an iPad but I can’t view them in beter quality than 720. Is that intentional, because it used to be 1080p?

    • Izzy Berger on 9 December 2019 at 8:46 am

      Hi Luke,

      As it was one of our older videos, this is the highest resolution it goes.

      Kind Regards,

  22. Benoît Van Noten on 6 December 2019 at 9:26 pm

    – video in 720p ?
    maybe because it is from 2013.

  23. K S on 16 December 2019 at 1:20 pm

    I don’t have the skill to have the tenon ends show without space in the mortice on the breadboard edge
    So I have modified your design by making 1” tenons that don’t go through
    my lack of skill is hidden
    But I keep practicing

    • K S on 6 March 2020 at 10:37 am

      Follow up on hiding the tenons
      It turns out that my plow plane had a 1/4” blade. A 3/8” blade made a huge difference because the tenons are more substantial. I find showing the tenon more aesthetically of pleasing
      These make great gifts. Everyone can use a cutting board

  24. chason Hayes on 21 March 2021 at 5:19 pm

    My lack of skill with a plough plane made my groove offset to one side about 1/16″. Do I need to try and match the mortise on the back side to the offset or do I trim the wall of the groove on the fat side? I am afraid I will end up with a gap in my groove at the end. I did leave my tenons a little fat. How should I proceed?

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