1. Not that it really matters at this point … but it might later. The “face marking” arrow lines don’t match. The marks were probably made when this end piece was at the other end of the board.

    While it doesn’t affect these pieces fitting, it might later, if final assembly pays attention to these marks.

  2. Paul, Really enjoyable, the care you show using your tools to fit the joints must be an inspiration to us all. Taking the time not to rush, to enjoy every aspect of our time in our workshop, be that sharpening our tools, or laying up our timber section, before taking to finally dimensions, totally enjoyed all your videos thus far thank you.

  3. Greetings Paul and crew,

    Watching your videos has made me wonder about the tightness of your mortise and tenon joints. It seems your joints are much tighter than I have seen US woodworkers make them. I have tried to make the joints so that only hand pressure is needed to seat them. Are you ever concerned about the mortise splitting or is this a another good lesson for this Yankee joiner?

    With respect,

  4. It’s important to have a sort of hand-in-a-tight glove fit. Big tenons have more surface friction and can be more problematic. The important thing is that tenon cheeks connect with mortise walls and that glue connects the two. All woods are different in terms of compression and so different woods can factor to determine some of this. The mortises should never be compromised by splitting and after several trials in fitting you will increase confidence to know exactly what will happen.

  5. Paul,
    you mention getting seasoned/air dried wood over kiln dried.
    Why is that? What’s the difference between air seasoned and kiln dried wood?

    My local sawmill has both, and the seasoned wood is cheaper than the kiln dried wood, but it has a higher moisture content.

    Is that not a problem?
    thank you

  6. It would be good to get an answer to the above question (I’m just downloading the eps now). Air dried wood where I am is also of higher moisture content than kiln dried. Is it an Australian thing?

  7. Ive posted a couple links that will hopefully flush through from previous blogs. Search ‘air dried’ and a couple come up. If i understand correctly, the seasoned you are referring to ‘may’ be of higher moisture because perhaps harvested this year or last. So sufficient time has not passed for it to have air dried/ seasoned enough, which may take months or years. The kiln dry method is force dried (artificial) to bring moisture content down so it can be sent to market faster.

  8. Hello Paul and gang. Great work!
    This one I’m doing for my wife and mother-in-law.
    I’m a bit slow getting to this project. I’ve been finishing some other work. I do have a question though. Would it be feasible to chop the mortise hole before you plow the grove?
    Thanks Jim

  9. I really enjoy watching your work skill.
    I’m working on a sugar chest reproduction that has bread board lid 3/4 ” thick.
    The plans show 3/4″ SQUARE dowels. Would appreciate any comments/suggestions.
    Thank You, Larry

  10. It is apparent that the fit is very tight in Paul’s work. And yet, we did hear a “tick” during fitting the tenon, possibly because oak is a hard wood and will not compress like a softwood might and the stress has to go somewhere. This being the case, the project will be under compression at the final dry fit. The bigger the tenons the more that stress will add up. Adding glue to the joinery should cause the wood to swell somewhat putting some additional stress on the joint. So here are my questions:
    1. Has Paul ever had work crack during glueing – if so is there a “fix” for that?
    2. Would it not be safer to aim for a slip fit and let the glue fill any voids – or is walking that tightrope the mark of a true craftsman?
    3. Finally, is there some factor that comes into play during glue setting that saves the project from (literal) failure?

    1. Hi Gordon,

      I passed on your question to Paul and below is his answer:

      1. Yes, if it does crack you just glue it and carry on. Not all cracks are caused by over tightness, there could be a separation of the cells that just pop within the joint.
      2. I would never ever use glue to fill a void, so I aim to get the joint as well fitting as possible, even to the point of high friction.
      3. I’m afraid I don’t understand this one.

      Kind Regards,

    2. On question 2:

      I recently ended up with a slim tenon on a table apron. I glued pine veneer on the cheeks to make it tight again, then glued the project the next day. It worked ok. Filling voids with glue is not a good idea.

  11. I don’t have the skill to have the tenon ends show without space in the mortice on the breadboard edge
    So I have modified your design by making 1” tenons that don’t go through
    my lack of skill is hidden
    But I keep practicing

    1. Follow up on hiding the tenons
      It turns out that my plow plane had a 1/4” blade. A 3/8” blade made a huge difference because the tenons are more substantial. I find showing the tenon more aesthetically of pleasing
      These make great gifts. Everyone can use a cutting board

  12. My lack of skill with a plough plane made my groove offset to one side about 1/16″. Do I need to try and match the mortise on the back side to the offset or do I trim the wall of the groove on the fat side? I am afraid I will end up with a gap in my groove at the end. I did leave my tenons a little fat. How should I proceed?

Leave a Reply