Breadboard-end Cutting Board: Episode 1


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In this first episode Paul will give you a brief glimpse of the castle kitchen and then give you measurements for this project. He will also show how to layout and cut the wide tenons on the end of the board.


  1. Ken on 12 June 2013 at 11:36 am

    great job guys, thanks for this one

  2. cpetersen1970 on 12 June 2013 at 3:24 pm

    Love the choice for this short project! As a chef by trade, this is right in my breadbasket, as they say, haha.

  3. STEVE MASSIE on 12 June 2013 at 4:50 pm

    Thanks Paul and Joseph, this is going to be a nice little project also.


  4. Mexiquite on 12 June 2013 at 5:44 pm

    I’m going to make this one. Might scale it down even further. Will be quite lovely.

  5. RL on 12 June 2013 at 7:44 pm

    I wonder if Paul referenced off the wrong face with the mortising gauge? It seemed to me that the face mark was on the side nearest the camera around 17 minutes in?

    • RL on 12 June 2013 at 7:45 pm

      I mean around 16.20 in. I know that the tenon is centred, but shouldn’t it be referenced off the face side?

  6. Mark Armstrong on 13 June 2013 at 5:51 pm

    Richard well spotted It proves we are all human.

  7. Josh Frey on 15 June 2013 at 12:40 pm

    Would you ever use a filister plane to make the tenon?

  8. martyn smith on 16 June 2013 at 1:45 pm

    what a good little project to practice different sizes and the draw bores ,great.

  9. smfield on 26 June 2013 at 4:19 pm

    Not to be pedantic, but only accurate, botulism is a neroutoxic disease caused by the release of toxins from the spors of the bacteria Clostridium botulinum. The spors are completely resistant to most cleaning agents and even caustic/corrosive substances.

  10. kelly on 22 July 2013 at 1:17 am

    In this video, Paul mentions a debate regarding a debate about materials being used for cutting boards. I happened to trip over this interesting article that addresses that very issue.

  11. danw on 12 February 2014 at 11:17 pm

    If you don’t have a 3/8 would it be better to use a 1/4 or a 1/2?

    • Craig on 12 February 2014 at 11:55 pm

      Tough question.
      My first board was 1 inch thick so I used the 3/8.
      The next three were 3/4 inch thick and I had the same debate as you.
      I finally decided on 5/16 ๐Ÿ™‚
      I guess it comes down to what you want to wind up with for the mortise wall thickness.
      Either would work.

  12. Paul Sellers on 14 February 2014 at 6:41 pm

    The wood plays a part in this too. Generally we accept 1 part tenon to two parts mortise walls, but most tenons stop after 1″ on generally joinery and furniture making. Timber framing is a little larger but not massively. 1 1/2″ to 2″ is pretty typical.

  13. Chris Bunney on 9 March 2014 at 11:05 am

    Hi Paul,

    Another great video – thanks. A quick question: when you plane the 2nd tenon cheek across the grain, are you not worried about the opposite edge splitting/breaking out? It did not look like you were stopping the plane before reaching the other edge. I feel like if I did that it would split out the opposite side. I’m sure I am misunderstanding something though! Thanks!

    • Paul Sellers on 9 March 2014 at 5:13 pm

      I think every surface is different and I can tell when grain will or will not tear by experience I cannot give to you. Some time the surfaces are slightly uneven in height and so it may appear that I am hitting the grain when I am not or it may be that I have my plane slewed at a slight angle as I meet the opposite. All I can suggest is feel after how the grain responds, if it feels easy without too much resistance you can usually make through passes.

  14. BondiMacF on 23 July 2014 at 11:14 pm


    you talk about “moving the knife-wall”; (about 17;50) clearly you want it to stay where it is because that’s where your measurement is, but what do you mean by that?

    Does it move down or sideways, Any why does it do that?

    In a way related to moving a knife-wall or scribe line, I’ve noticed with some of my mortises that when leavering out the waste I’ve rounded over the edge of the mortise hole because I’ve levered against the edge of the mortise and squashed it down leaving a gap when the tenon is inserted. How do you lever out the waste without damaging the wall of the mortise?


    • BondiMacF on 23 July 2014 at 11:36 pm

      Oh ok, I think you go on to explain it little more later in the vid.

      you say the bevel drives the chisel into the wall. why does it do that way round? Why doesn’t the bevel drive the waste away seeing the broad flat back side of the chisel is registered against the knife wall which in turn has the lengh of the fully board behind it.

      • David R. on 25 July 2014 at 8:18 am

        Paul puts his hand between the chisel and the mortise hole ends to prevent it from being damaged. If you have to lever too hard, maybe you need to take smaller chunks at once. As a remedy if you already compressed the wood, have a look at Paul’s video here:

        From what I understand, the bevel drives the chisel against the sidewall, if the amount of wood on the bevel’s side is too large. It has to do with physical forces, but I wouldn’t know how to explain it technically correctly, so I made a drawing about how I think it works:

        Maybe this helps a bit.

        • BondiMacF on 4 August 2014 at 10:22 pm

          Thanks for that.
          just watching the video. what he does at about 15 minutes in is what keeps happening to me – luckily I’m learning these lessons building my bench at them moment which is going to be more functional than anything, and having seen the vid I’ll give it a try when I actually build some furniture for indoors. ๐Ÿ˜‰ can’t wait.

          Thanks for the picture too.

        • Philip Adams on 5 August 2014 at 10:43 am

          Great description David, spot on. I think it’s one of those things, that the more you work wood the more you will realise why it’s happening.

  15. Philip Adams on 5 August 2014 at 10:41 am

    Sound seems to be working fine here. Maybe the video hadn’t fully loaded? Could you try again and let me know how it goes?

  16. George Harris on 6 February 2018 at 9:43 pm

    Hi folks,

    I’ve just finished this project and have one pertinent point to raise;

    When i was using the router plane (home made, maybe the problem) the wood I was using pulled the router blade down into the wood and made it a touch lower, low enough to make the tenon too small to fit tightly into the mortice (but only by a touch, see my pics on the forum).

    I hope this info is useful to someone else ๐Ÿ™‚

  17. David B on 7 February 2018 at 1:57 am

    Did you have it oriented bevel up or bevel down? Bevel up will pull the chisel into the wood. Bevel up is much more smooth and does not dig.

  18. Jukka Huuskonen on 30 April 2018 at 5:34 am

    Hi Paul or other admins,

    Description of this vid says about cutting dovetails, which obviously there are none. Maybe you should correct the description.


    • Philip Adams on 30 April 2018 at 2:05 pm

      Hello Jukka,
      So it is! Thank you for letting us know, I’ve now corrected it.
      Best, Phil

  19. Francois Maurice on 22 November 2019 at 5:24 pm

    Thanks for this project.
    Looks so simple.
    But so much to learn and understand, about reading the grain and choosing the right way to go.


  20. Don Baker on 23 November 2019 at 6:26 am

    A number of years ago they made all the restaurants get rid of all the wood countertops. The one near us bleached it every night. Sad to see them go. Then they discovered less bacteria on the wood than on plastic or metal. Too late, all the wood was gone. (Illinois)

  21. Gregory Saue on 29 November 2019 at 9:58 pm

    Would have seemed a good place to use a router plane, (which I learned from you). ?

  22. Gregory Saue on 29 November 2019 at 10:03 pm

    And there it was.

  23. Jon on 24 January 2022 at 3:30 pm

    i’m nearly a decade late to the comments but anyone have thoughts on using quartersawn sycamore for the main part of this?

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