Breadboard-end Cutting Board: Project Info

Our current project is a Breadboard-end Cutting Board (June-July)

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Breadboard-ends – skills in making large draw-bore mortise and tenons

Breadboard-ends can be used on many projects. It allows glue-free friction joinery that is long-lasting and durable. This method will build your technique in making mortise and tenons but also give you a new way of making sustainable and enduring flat boards which can be used not only for cutting boards but for table tops, counter tops, box lids and many other projects.

Parts and cutting list

PartThicknessSize (Imperial)Size (Metric)
Main board x 27/8″ (22mm)6 x 16″152 x 406mm
Ends x 27/8″ (22mm)2 x 12½”51 x 318mm
4 small pieces to make the dowels

Tools/materials/equipment needed

The tools we use to make this project are quite common, minimal and yet essentially fundamental to all joinery types. Most of the tools below are simply part of the set you will need for all dovetailing in the future.  The essential element to all joinery is a keen knife edge, an accurate square and sharp chisels.

Marking gauge
Chisel hammer
Smoothing plane
Tenon saw
WoodA couple of square feet of 7/8″ (22mm) wood
FinishVegetable oil


  1. Michael van Zadelhoff on 12 June 2013 at 2:24 pm

    Am I correct to say that 7/8″ is around 22mm and not 13?

  2. Michael van Zadelhoff on 12 June 2013 at 2:25 pm

    Am I correct to say that 7/8″ is around 22mm in stead of 13mm?

  3. Ohj123 on 12 June 2013 at 5:51 pm

    Should mm be 23mm and bottom x1 3/8 be ends x2 ( thickness 7/8 23 mm)

  4. Ken on 12 June 2013 at 5:58 pm

    Guys the 7/8″ to mm mistake has been reported. Joseph will sort it out asap

  5. Joseph Sellers on 12 June 2013 at 6:53 pm

    Sorry about this guys. Thank you for reporting it. I have fixed it now.

  6. Michael Swinburne on 23 November 2019 at 2:09 pm

    Thank you for your help. I have got what I need, I am now one happy bunny

    Yours gratefully

    Michael Swinburne

  7. Terry Baxter on 26 December 2021 at 4:04 pm

    Dear All: I’ve just got back into my workshop and started to prepare some oak boards for up and coming projects. They’ve been air drying in my garage (if you can call it that) for twenty years- which shows you how much fishing I’ve been doing. The soft wood along the wany edge is full of woodworm. What should I do?

    Sincere regards,


    • Keith Walton on 26 December 2021 at 6:21 pm

      Just cut it off if they’re wide enough. Bugs usually go for the sap that’s where all the sweet tasting stuff is for them. Except some stuff like cherry and maple they’ll eat the heartwood too

  8. Larry Geib on 26 December 2021 at 5:11 pm

    Obviously only you can decide if the wood you have is fit for use in its current state. Bad portions can be cut out.

    But you can halt further insect damage with heat. The U S Forrest service has done experiments and shown that all boring insects can be killed by heating the core temperature of wood th 60°C (140°F). for one hour. You can do this with a makeshift kiln of tarps and a heater. Obviously, it will take thicker wood longer to reach that core temperature. Here is an excerpt from the forest service study , which was originally conducted in the last decade or so, though I have seen prior studies from the 1930’s.

    “Our Research
    During 2009-2013, we tested different treatment temperature and time regimes required to kill various woodboring insects in log sections cut from naturally infested trees. During our studies we examined both hardwood (deciduous) and softwood (conifer) infested material. Survival was studied for emerald ash borer (EAB) and other flathead borers, longhorned beetles, bark beetles, and weevils. Temperatures and times tested included the ISPM-15 (International Standards for Phytosanitary Measures) standard of 56°C core temperature for 30 minutes.
    Expected Outcomes
    Our results provide information on the effectiveness of approved heat treatment protocols for killing woodboring insects and provide information on the temperatures and time required to kill specific species. These results are useful to regulatory personnel and resource managers when setting guidelines and determining treatment protocols for sanitizing firewood and other wood products.

    Research Results
    We found that the lethal temperature required to kill woodboring insects varies considerably among families and even genera. Most insects were killed when subjected to the ISPM-15 temperature treatment of 56°C core temperature for 30 minutes. The most heat tolerant insect we tested was a Chrysobothris sp. (Coleoptera: Buprestidae), in which two individuals survived treatments of 60°C core for 30 minutes. Given this, the current firewood heat treatment approved by the USDA Animal and Plant Health Inspections Service (APHIS) of 60°C core for 60 minutes appears to be sufficient for sanitizing firewood and similar treatment temperatures and times should be considered for all wood products.”

    It’s standard for imported and exported woods in the US that they be subjected to kiln drying to international standard ISPM-15 , not to dry the wood, but to kill insects.

    Some species are sold with insect damage as an “enhanced feature”. Among these are “pecky” Bolivian walnut and American “pecky” cypress. Currently, there is an ash dye off caused by Beatles that is destroying American ash forests and the wood is treated in this manner, as is a Pine Beattie Die off that stains the pine heartwood a distinctive blue color. Even the box stores have gotten into the act selling this stuff.

    • Terry Baxter on 28 December 2021 at 1:41 pm

      Many thanks indeed. I’ve started to excise the affected parts and burned them. All of the hard wood looks sound as nails 😊

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