1. I completely agree, something about my generation just wants to say “to heck with it” and this training to keep going little by little and persevere is much needed. This is true craftsmanship, and I hope it continues its resurgence.

    1. Yes, they are Ashley Iles. I just bought a set of their butt chisels for dovetailing, and they are every bit as nice as you might suspect, beautifully made. Nice to see Paul splurge every now and then … does my heart good.

    2. Sometimes I take my inexpensive chisels and refine the bevel edges by tapering them down to amost a cutting bevel at the very tips. If you noticed, Paul’s chisels have this feature (they are even shiny like a mirror) The inexpensive chisels are easily refined with a file šŸ˜‰

  1. “Life is like wood; it’s comes with knots in it.”

    You said that like you’ve said it a million times, but that was the first I’ve ever heard that. What a great (and very true) saying from a woodworking master!

  2. Paul, could you remind me of why your dovetail recess sits below the surface of the top by that quarter of an inch? My first instinct was that it would have been flush with the top edge.

  3. Phil,

    Many chests would have a profiled edge on the top. Even though Paul’s current design doesn’t call for a profile, this seems an excellent opportunity for him to show us how. Would you please ask Paul if he’d be willing to show us how to use a scratch block and hollows and rounds to do two common profiles along the grain and across the grain, perhaps a thumbnail and maybe a cyma with fillet? This would open up a world of possibilities for us to build variations on this chest, and we could apply it to various tables, too. It is important to see how to work end grain, though. I’ve suggested both a scratch block and hollows and rounds. The scratch block is generally useful, especially for someone without H&R’s, and the H&R’s are suggested, rather than a specialized moulding plane that only cuts one profile, because we’ll get more use from them. That’s why I suggested two different approaches. This would be a natural follow on to the cornice video he did some time back. Thanks!

    1. Hi Ed,
      Thank you for the suggestion. I will mention it to Paul and add it to the list.

      We have discussed showing moulding and moulding planes before. There are so many options and it is a somewhat less fundamental technique, with quite a bit of complexity, so it is not likely to be covered soon. They are also not available to all.

      The beading and marking tool can be used for some aspects:

      1. Thanks, Phil. There are indeed many profiles and many don’t have access to moulding planes, which is why a scratch block demo could be so helpful. Since profiles can be built from hollows and rounds oftentimes, they give versatility and quite a few people in the discussion lists have expressed interest. My hope is that, if we see how to do a couple sample profiles on end grain and along the grain on some scrap hardwood, we’ll be well on our way. Being able to do ornamentation opens many design doors and is expected in many purchased pieces.

      2. Hi Phil just found your comments regarding wooden moulding planes ….very interesting. I have asked for tuition with old moulders and can understand fully your explanation. It would not be possible for all to own a selection.
        I have collected a good number and find many very frustrating….Paul would have an up hill battle teaching there use.
        What Paul could, if I may say, teach is the use of scratch blocks. I’ve seen their construction on Utube using just two pieces of wood clamped over a shaped Stanley knife blade.
        ALSO Paul could show a sticking board in action ……just a piece of wood attached to bench or vice with stock held by a screw either end.
        I have a scratch block as shown in you hyper link ….superb
        Thanks John

  4. Is there a reason *not* to have swapped to the router plane to take down that troublesome bit? It seems to me like it would help ensure it’s parallel to the surface, and avoid the troublesome chisel work…

    1. Hello Andrew, sometimes it is easier to work down tough grain with the chisel as you can feel after the grain a little more. If there is adverse grain, the router plane can still tear out below the depth it is set to. But it is definitely an option to try in some circumstances.

  5. Would you ever consider using a brace and bit in this situation? I.e. Cutting blind dovetails. It “tames” any grain issue and gives you a defined depth to pare to as well as being a little quicker even in the best conditions.

  6. That was the first idea I had when Paul ran into that reverse grain cutting that dovetail. I thought, “I’d probably try to ‘nibble’ it away using the chisel-hinge cutting technique”. Curious if that would actually work, it seems like it would at least to some extent.
    I realize it’s been three years since these comments but I like to rewatch these video series occasionally & sometimes re-read the comments as well.

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