1. Lots of little tips through out. Only here do I find this kind info from real experience from a real woodworker. The follow through cut for example, and many others. Love how you chat and explain things as you’re working. Very valuable for us new guys. Thanks a million.

  2. This will be great, Paul. I have to say, the quality of the videos just keeps on improving – they were good to start, and just keep getting better. The project will be useful in its own right, but I just love the mentoring and constant guidance toward the level of accuracy and how to get it. Small things like the use of the reference block for keeping the plane true – makes perfect sense of course, but for a newcomer like myself, it wouldn’t jump to mind. Does now!

    1. I think Paul is using the gentleman’s saw by crown Tools. I believe Rockler sells it too. As for the dovetail, I think that jig is 1:7 but could be 1:8… I’ve always used 1:7 on pine and never had any issues.

  3. And I am far away from my little shop tonight so there won’t be any woodworking for me. I was wondering Paul, if you alternste sides of the squaring block when planing the parts square will that ballance out the planing and help keep your ref block square?

      1. Thank you Phillip. I’m reluctant to make suggestions to the master but this one seems to make sense. Maybe I’ll give that a try later today. Thank you for the reply.

  4. Fascinating!

    The mark of a true teacher is, I think, how you can explain constantly what you are doing as you are doing it – even the little bits of misstep like re-truing the squareness of the one edge without missing a beat.

    Talking and explaining all the while and still getting it done faster than seems possible AND having that level of quality. Simply amazing.

    Thank you.

    1. @GREITZERA Hand cut sliding dovetails are done like this because it isn’t hard for us to do when working by hand and because it improves the joint. If the sides were parallel, then they would need to be absolutely perfect and the socket would need to be absolutely the same size or the joint would be too loose or would be too hard to assemble, especially if it were a long dovetail like on a bookshelf. With the tapered sliding dovetail, like Paul is doing here, you get as close as you can, aiming for perfect, but ultimately you tap the two pieces together. The more you tap, the tighter it gets because of the taper. It’s like a wedge. This also means that, if the wood shrinks in the future, then one tap tightens the joint, but with parallel sides, it’s loose forever. At least, I think that’s why! You need to think ahead and maybe give a little extra width to the piece so that, after it is assembled, you can flush the edges with your plane (the front of a bookshelf with the front of the case). If it’s stopped, you need to think about that, too, and give a little extra room in the stop/notch.

    2. Btw, remember that with a normal housing, the joint is uniform in thickness through the depth, so you assemble it by just shoving the parts together. You can make the housing just a little tight so that a little compression leads to a snug joint. With a dovetailed housing, you cannot just press the male part into the socket because of the shape of the tails. You must slide the joint together along the length of the housing. If the sides were parallel and a little snug, you’d build more and more friction as you slide it together and really have trouble in the end. And, as I said before, it would need to be dead perfect. The taper gives the final squeeze to get a tight joint. So, this has to do with differences in how you assemble things, too.

  5. I just started making the pegs. I’m really glad I made the peg template first (like in the video) because I got the angles mixed up. I didn’t realize you have to cut through the 56 degree angle. Getting my head around that was a great mental exercise. Thank you!

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