Coat Rack: Episode 2
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The recess template helps ensure an accurate taper and dovetail angle. This is then used to lay out and cut the recesses.
I consider myself a beginner, but learning so much. Thank you, Paul and team.
My question is: why is Paul using 2 different dovetail jigs? Is it important that they are both the same angle 1:7?
Thanks,
Maurice
The dovetail jig that Paul made in the beginning of the video is a template only. You could lay down the ends of the dovetail and Mark from the inside shoulders but I like how Paul did it because it gives you a better visual access to marking.
Sorry, what about the dovetail template that Paul used in episode 1. It is different than the one that he made at the beginning of episode 2. Are they the same angle (1:7) and do they have to be the same? Do I have to make 2 templates? Or can I use a 1:8 template that I own?
Appreciate your help.
I think that the template Paul made in this episode is purely for visual and ballpark of the cut. The idea is to cut as close to the shoulder of the dovetail and adjacent face, then either cleanup from the hook or the housing.
As for the 1:8 dovetail, it would depend on the wood you’re using. If you’re using a hardwood then probably 1:8 would be fine. But I think that 1:7 is the safest way to go.
The template that Paul makes at the beginning of this episode is not to a 1:7. It is not a dovetail template but a template for the taper of the sliding aspect of the joint.
You could use your 1:8 template in place of the dovetail template used in episode 1 if you wish.
You know what else I love about in these series? It’s when Paul invents something and then works on it with confidence and care. You guys are doing a great work! Bravo!
Wouldn’t it be easier to cut off the thinnest 1/8 ” of the dovetail, so you would have a shoulder to conceal the precision of the fit?
The snug fit is what makes this piece solid and strong and also disassemblable. It is also a great piece to improve accuracy.
The master is the master because of his simple magic. I’ve been playing with these since the project was introduced. There are lots of examples in print and on the internet. They probably all work. After today’s lesson I cut a trial and the tail set firmly with minimal detail with the chisel. Cut the first one on the rail of mahogany and again, minimal chisel work and the peg sits plumb square to the rail. Thank you Mr. Sellers.
I abandoned digital calipers for a Starrett dial caliper. Much more reliable, matches other machined tools spot on, and I’m not chasing 1000th of an inch measurements around.
I just want to point out something that wasn’t immediately obvious to me about the jig. I’ve never done one of these before so I watched the video three or four times. It wasn’t until the last time I noticed that when Paul puts the dovetail up against the template to show it off, it looks like the dove tail is way too big. That is because there is a thick and thin measurement at both the top and the bottom of the tail. And I realized you have to take the thin measurement at both ends because you are marking the outer surface of the mating piece where the thinnest part of the dovetail will rest.
At least I hope that’s right! Here goes nothing.