26 Comments

    1. Gareth there are far less expensive plow planes to be had out there i would have to be selling a lot of these to go to that expense i know its not ideal to go second hand ,but unless you’re a dab hand at sharpening or setting these tools up id go less at first just to get the feel for it, that is unless you’re 100% sure this is the one for you or you’re loaded haha .

      1. Wise council Eddie and much appreciated. I’ve got an old beat-up plough plane somewhere but the way the Veritas worked in the hands of the master just got my juices flowing. I look at it this way, if I can blow Β£100 at Morrisons on frivolous luxuries like food, I can treat meself to real essentials now and again πŸ˜‰

        1. Hey Gareth, Eddy’s point is a good one, but I like to buy new and look after it. You will use it time and time again.

          So I vote treat your self buddy and enjoy it every time you use it. πŸ˜‰

  1. Hi Paul can you please tell me the TPI of rip and panel saw used when first cutting boards for the corner shelf.

    I know you and the team are busy? but I have left the above question before and others previously …………I do not get a reply…………..can somebody tell me what I am doing wrong please

    1. Ken’s right. 10 TPI will do almost all benchwork. Sorry if we missed some. We try to make certain to answer them all or look to see if someone jumped and gave a good answer in our stead. Don’t give up. We want comments and questions.

  2. Sides don’t appear to be fastened to alleviate wood movement problems.

    I’m not sure if Paul will see this or answer it, but I’ll give it a try anyway.

    The sides are two pieces of wood with a spline joining them. Each piece has a screw securing the side to the case.

    Paul has sized and fit the panels such that the spline edges are pressed against each other. The non-splined edges have the screws.

    So when the wood shrinks, the spline will show and all is well. But if this case is assembled in the winter, and the wood expands, it has no where to go, so troubles abound.

    Shouldn’t the splined boards be assembled with a gap?

  3. Marty,
    You are correct, however, it is summer in England and Paul works in a climate controlled shop where his wood has likely been stored and allowed to adjust. The destination for the piece is likely also in a controlled space.
    In a winter assembly, I would still undersize the spline for the grooves but I would leave a gap so the spline was visible.
    Marty you must live in the southern hemisphere. Without sample boards it would be difficult to predict the gap required.
    Might be worth it to wait until summer.
    Being from Canada, I will be interested to see the glue up. I am a basement worker and my home’s humidity does not change drastically but I still plan for the unexpected.

    1. Thanks for the input Russell.

      I live in Southern California.

      If the shop and destination environment is climate controlled to the extent that the wood movement isn’t a concern, then there would be no reason for Paul to use split panels to begin with.

      The whole design predisposes that there’s going to be wood movement.

      And in the next episode he puts glue just about everywhere. I would have put glue only near the screws so that the panels could move more independently from the shelves.

      I just wish he had addressed the wood movement concerns more (along the lines of my first comment), or maybe add a comment in this thread.

      The problem with these masterclass videos is that he films everything far in advance, so by the time they are showing, he’s off doing other things. The interactions with the members is not what I had hoped for. Oh well.

      1. Marty,
        I do recall a “very” brief discussion on the wood movement in an earlier episode now. Paul didn’t see it as an issue but there was no explanation.
        So I thought about it further.
        The sides and shelves will expand in the same direction, however, I would agree that there would be more over all expansion in the sides as the distance is greater than the depth of the shelf, however the expansion rate across the boards is the same and the 45 degree angle on the shelf would produce the same distance of expansion but along the hypotenuse of the board.
        Note that you can’t mix species for the sides and shelves as the expansion/contraction rates would be different.
        In the end your method will most definitely work.

    1. Hi Ken sorry I did not say rough (as in not smooth) I said rogue. As in not with the herd?? What I was trying to say was that I was surprised to see Paul on Utube as he has such a superb Masterclass and weekly tutorial video free. And that I thought the Utube videos I stumbled upon could be grouped with his Master class selection
      This comment was not in anyway a criticism I was just trying to make a point and it has been picked up by Paul and his team. They have very kindly and graciously taken the time to explain how they operate.
      The more I try to explain the more I get in deeper, I have great respect for all Paul’s hard work and enjoy tremendously his tutorials

  4. nice video once agaiin

    been following the groove planing – you make it look so easy!

    I just wonder how heavy the set is on that plane, it appears to make some quite heavy shavings.
    Not that the exact thickness matters but I tried to adjust mine to produce fairly thin shavings but then it takes much longer to plane to required depth with all the more chances of straying from the line.
    What is the thickness of your shavings Paul ? Maybe I can use that as a reference for mine.

  5. Just take shavings as thick as you feel comfortable with. There is no thickness. More strokes too easy means not enough depth. Add more depth as per what you feel. Those shavings are long since in the bin now..

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