Door Making episode 4

Door_Making_4

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We’re ready to assemble the door with the hammer and clamp, checking the joints, to get accurate measurements for the panels. Once the panels are cut to size, Paul discussed the options for fitting them to the groove. Paul uses a marking gauge to mark his recess, then rebates the panels, introducing a few different techniques. With that done, there is the final dry run before systematically gluing up the door.

30 Comments

  1. stefandingenouts on 2 March 2016 at 8:28 pm

    Hi Paul,
    Great episode again! I was wondering why you used the pine piece to cut the rebate. Because the veritas you used can rebate directly against (even partly inside) it’s fence if you’d had the rebate on your side of the board, and the depth stop should’ve worked as well as far as I could see.

    Did you just want to show how you could do it with any plough plane (that doesn’t have build in rebate ability), or maybe because you prefer the extra width for stability?

    • thunder52 on 6 March 2016 at 1:32 pm

      you cant register the fence on the face side of the panel, when you go about it in the way you describe it…
      that is his reason…

      • stefandingenouts on 6 March 2016 at 8:40 pm

        Just in case the opposite side isn’t perfectly parallel and flat you mean? I sort of assumed that wouldn’t be a problem for Paul and it would be easily fixed by planing the other side. But, yes, as a general best practice that makes sense.

        • Michael Ostrander on 31 October 2017 at 3:10 am

          Not sure why Paul didn’t just lay the panel on the bench and use a rebate plane to cut all 4 sides. It is what these types of planes are designed for after all. You use the knicker on the cross grain and not on the long grain. Way faster and much less drama.

    • Philip Adams on 1 November 2017 at 4:47 pm

      Hi Stefan (and others),
      Paul used the pine poor mans rebate plane, as we showed how to make it in a seperate video, so those who don’t own a rebate plane can still make the project.
      Best,
      Phil

  2. adrian on 2 March 2016 at 8:42 pm

    Super glue sacrificial support is pure genius. love the idea of not hassling with a router set up.
    Thanks Paul.

  3. Eddy Flynn on 2 March 2016 at 9:16 pm

    thank you for showing how a classic door can look stunning , I love how you say it’s “a simple door” just six joints, seven components, eight grooves, eight rebates and a little precision planing ,simple really .

  4. trooper82 on 2 March 2016 at 11:08 pm

    Very well done Sir! Hope I can make things look so easy someday.

  5. Peter Bernhardt on 3 March 2016 at 1:53 am

    Per Paul’s comment at 50 min mark about using the panel side with the reveal as the outside, that’s exactly what I did with a built-in cabinet I just finished up.

  6. knightlylad on 3 March 2016 at 9:24 pm

    Thank you for the lesson.

  7. jonathanon on 4 March 2016 at 2:58 am

    Will this lovely new cabinet be hanging in the new shop Paul?

  8. jakegevorgian on 4 March 2016 at 7:30 am

    Always a joy watching you, master Paul

  9. hphimmelbauer on 4 March 2016 at 12:44 pm

    Paul asks -“When there will be too much glue?”. Well, let an amateur tell You.
    You remember, You have work-piece ready to glue and run into the cellar. Everything is fine and ready. You put glue on 2 pieces to connect them. Then:
    1. You give a tap with the hammer
    2. You see, glue comes out of the connecting lines and gaps.
    3. You tap again (to be sure and so)
    4. You are spread over with some drops of glue. You look like You had chicken-pox.
    5. You are ready with glueing and go upstairs, where Your wife stares at You with big eyes.
    6. Door bell rings. Your friends come for supper.

  10. Wesley on 7 March 2016 at 6:59 pm

    @hphimmelbauer or when there’s so much excess glue you glue your clamps to your workpiece.

    • hphimmelbauer on 8 March 2016 at 6:58 am

      Oh – why You know, where is Your webcam… Well I use some clamps like Paul has and I have fixed thin wooden plates on it to not damage the wooden pieces. After one – let’s call it experiment – I now use baking paper. This works perfect (but it does not prevent from “chicken-pox”).

  11. António on 1 July 2016 at 2:50 pm

    Thank You WWMC Team!

  12. dpawson on 1 July 2016 at 3:30 pm

    Paul, you have left a gap, panel tenon / frame mortise. 3/8 to 1/4. Not explained? Is that for expansion please? It is a dust trap?

    • Paul Sellers on 4 July 2016 at 11:54 am

      The gap is no more a dust trap than it would be without the rebates edges; just the same, except of course you will need a brush or blower to remove it. I don’t really think that the added possibility of dust bothers me. What it does is as you say, it ensures that there is room for expansion to occur if in the unlikely event it is needed, that’s all. It also allows for a simple approach to using a thick panel without raising the panels too.

      • Chae-Hwa Shon on 1 May 2017 at 11:14 am

        Great!

        I have a question.
        Maybe I missed. I wish to know that the magin in the panel mortise hole. When I see the movie, the length of your panel tenon is about 10mm and it fits into the groove perfectly. So I think no gap between mortise and tenon. If it is so, how could you manage the expanasion of the panel? I also to know that if you have any rule to have margin between panel tenons and mortise grooves.

  13. Jim Heinen on 1 July 2016 at 3:34 pm

    Paul
    Great episode. When you used the super glue, you said there were some flaws with using it, but didn’t discuss them. I’d be interested in hearing your thoughts about that.

    • Paul Sellers on 4 July 2016 at 1:06 pm

      Simple enough, really. I was dismissive of superglue for some time because it seemed something of an amateurish approach to glue-up. That’s 20 years ago. Today I use it for many things and most often not because it’s reversible but separable, yet, if wanted, permanent. I use it for instance to glue temporary soles to things like small router planes or fences to the soles of either wood or metal rebating planes. Many inlay forms can be glued up that way too, though you must be careful as any gaps and many joint lines will show as black lines and this you may or may not want. When I say separable I mean that, similar to animal glues, you can separate the joint lines with a thin bladed knife. You can also use small dabs with accelerator to temporary hold components as needed.

  14. Pawel Janiak on 3 July 2016 at 1:22 pm

    These tools of yours are lucky to be in your hands Paul ? Thank you

  15. Alexandre Freire on 4 July 2016 at 5:25 am

    This man is a poet at work. Amazing.

  16. Jeffrey DiBella on 15 July 2016 at 9:36 pm

    Paul, what does your grease pot consist of? Also does transfer any residual material to the wood?

    • Robert Doors on 11 November 2016 at 2:46 am

      Paul discussed this in another video. He uses 3-in-1 oil, a light machine oil, on a cloth which is stuffed in a can. He has had no problems with any residue affecting finishes – perhaps because he will plane or scrape and sand prior to finishing.

      • sidorenko91 on 2 May 2017 at 4:14 am

        I finally looked up what 3 in 1 oil is. According to wikipedia its spindle oil, which are low viscosity mineral oils, citronella and corrosion resistant.

        The amount transferring to the sole of the tool is very minimal, with any excess being whipped off onto my jeans.

        The rag in a can is totally crucial to my everyday woodworking. As is 3 in 1 oil.

  17. Michael Ostrander on 31 October 2017 at 3:16 am

    I understand there are a lot of ancillary benefits to the haunches on the stiles but the reason these are left on panels utilizing mortise & tenon joinery is to prevent blowing out the end of the stile when you’re levering out the mortise. I’ve made this mistake myself in the past, and it’s a pain to either glue a block in to replace the blown out piece or, even worse, start over and re-create the damaged piece from scratch.

  18. Farris purviance on 14 July 2020 at 7:16 pm

    On your scrub plane you have a 7” arc. The ones you purchase have a 3rd Arc. When watching you use yours on the edge of the one piece I got to wonder if the same result would come from the 3” arc in most scrub planes.

    • Izzy Berger on 24 July 2020 at 10:25 am

      Hi,

      Paul says:
      I think you do get a deeper curve and it does hog off wood much more readily but then that means follow up with the smoothing plane takes more work, I think it’s a matter of personal preference. Try both and alter accordingly or keep 2 separate blades.

      Kind Regards,
      Izzy

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