1. Hi Paul,
    Great episode again! I was wondering why you used the pine piece to cut the rebate. Because the veritas you used can rebate directly against (even partly inside) it’s fence if you’d had the rebate on your side of the board, and the depth stop should’ve worked as well as far as I could see.

    Did you just want to show how you could do it with any plough plane (that doesn’t have build in rebate ability), or maybe because you prefer the extra width for stability?

      1. Just in case the opposite side isn’t perfectly parallel and flat you mean? I sort of assumed that wouldn’t be a problem for Paul and it would be easily fixed by planing the other side. But, yes, as a general best practice that makes sense.

        1. Not sure why Paul didn’t just lay the panel on the bench and use a rebate plane to cut all 4 sides. It is what these types of planes are designed for after all. You use the knicker on the cross grain and not on the long grain. Way faster and much less drama.

  2. thank you for showing how a classic door can look stunning , I love how you say it’s “a simple door” just six joints, seven components, eight grooves, eight rebates and a little precision planing ,simple really .

  3. Paul asks -“When there will be too much glue?”. Well, let an amateur tell You.
    You remember, You have work-piece ready to glue and run into the cellar. Everything is fine and ready. You put glue on 2 pieces to connect them. Then:
    1. You give a tap with the hammer
    2. You see, glue comes out of the connecting lines and gaps.
    3. You tap again (to be sure and so)
    4. You are spread over with some drops of glue. You look like You had chicken-pox.
    5. You are ready with glueing and go upstairs, where Your wife stares at You with big eyes.
    6. Door bell rings. Your friends come for supper.

    1. Oh – why You know, where is Your webcam… Well I use some clamps like Paul has and I have fixed thin wooden plates on it to not damage the wooden pieces. After one – let’s call it experiment – I now use baking paper. This works perfect (but it does not prevent from “chicken-pox”).

    1. The gap is no more a dust trap than it would be without the rebates edges; just the same, except of course you will need a brush or blower to remove it. I don’t really think that the added possibility of dust bothers me. What it does is as you say, it ensures that there is room for expansion to occur if in the unlikely event it is needed, that’s all. It also allows for a simple approach to using a thick panel without raising the panels too.

      1. Great!

        I have a question.
        Maybe I missed. I wish to know that the magin in the panel mortise hole. When I see the movie, the length of your panel tenon is about 10mm and it fits into the groove perfectly. So I think no gap between mortise and tenon. If it is so, how could you manage the expanasion of the panel? I also to know that if you have any rule to have margin between panel tenons and mortise grooves.

  4. Paul
    Great episode. When you used the super glue, you said there were some flaws with using it, but didn’t discuss them. I’d be interested in hearing your thoughts about that.

    1. Simple enough, really. I was dismissive of superglue for some time because it seemed something of an amateurish approach to glue-up. That’s 20 years ago. Today I use it for many things and most often not because it’s reversible but separable, yet, if wanted, permanent. I use it for instance to glue temporary soles to things like small router planes or fences to the soles of either wood or metal rebating planes. Many inlay forms can be glued up that way too, though you must be careful as any gaps and many joint lines will show as black lines and this you may or may not want. When I say separable I mean that, similar to animal glues, you can separate the joint lines with a thin bladed knife. You can also use small dabs with accelerator to temporary hold components as needed.

    1. Paul discussed this in another video. He uses 3-in-1 oil, a light machine oil, on a cloth which is stuffed in a can. He has had no problems with any residue affecting finishes – perhaps because he will plane or scrape and sand prior to finishing.

      1. I finally looked up what 3 in 1 oil is. According to wikipedia its spindle oil, which are low viscosity mineral oils, citronella and corrosion resistant.

        The amount transferring to the sole of the tool is very minimal, with any excess being whipped off onto my jeans.

        The rag in a can is totally crucial to my everyday woodworking. As is 3 in 1 oil.

  5. I understand there are a lot of ancillary benefits to the haunches on the stiles but the reason these are left on panels utilizing mortise & tenon joinery is to prevent blowing out the end of the stile when you’re levering out the mortise. I’ve made this mistake myself in the past, and it’s a pain to either glue a block in to replace the blown out piece or, even worse, start over and re-create the damaged piece from scratch.

  6. On your scrub plane you have a 7” arc. The ones you purchase have a 3rd Arc. When watching you use yours on the edge of the one piece I got to wonder if the same result would come from the 3” arc in most scrub planes.

    1. Hi,

      Paul says:
      I think you do get a deeper curve and it does hog off wood much more readily but then that means follow up with the smoothing plane takes more work, I think it’s a matter of personal preference. Try both and alter accordingly or keep 2 separate blades.

      Kind Regards,

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