Making a Frame Saw – Episode 2

Making the Frame Saw 2

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The next steps are to make the saw kerf to accept the blade and position the hole which will take the screw to hold the blade in place. Then Paul shapes the handle using saw and chisel cuts and then the spokeshave, rasp and scraper to refine it and make the saw more comfortable in the hand.

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  1. Frank Joseph on 16 October 2015 at 3:19 pm

    Paul Thank you.
    as always a good video showing how to do a task the correct way and so a beginner can understand it. That is a challenge in its self.

  2. Jim Burcicki on 16 October 2015 at 7:22 pm

    The two things I really wanted to learn about is a rocking chair and a frame saw. The last series on making the chair comes close! and this set of videos on the frame saw is like Christmas comes early this year. 🙂 Thanks Paul and Phil

    • JONATHAN WARREN on 23 October 2015 at 11:58 pm

      last year I started making a rocking chair while attending a course with Paul. Tonight I finally glued it up 🙂 Now only the armrests, the seat (I’ve ordered the foam and leather), and then I have to decide on whether I want to make it a rocker – or a nice comfy front room chair!

  3. fudoka on 16 October 2015 at 8:11 pm

    Whilst the addition of the 1080 resolution is nice I wish you had retained the 720 option as well. The 1080 does generate rather a large file (and download) and I found the 720 resolution gave a reasonable compromise between definition and file size.

    • Philip Adams on 28 October 2015 at 11:55 am

      Thank you all for the kind comments. Episode 3 is now up and available and there is a video still to come re blade and sharpening.

      Paul blogged re the rasp here although it seems they don’t want to ship just one item now. I would be tempted to see if you could order various rasps and files, including saw files, from Tome Feteira to make it up to 6 or 12 if that is allowed:

  4. Joe Kaiser on 16 October 2015 at 8:14 pm

    I must be delusional. I thought he finished out the framesaw last week. I can even clearly remember him shaping the handle and saying something along the lines of

    “Some people like to have a handle of both ends, but on this particular saw I am only going to put a handle on one end. That way I always know the orientation of the teeth when I pick it up”

    • Joe Kaiser on 16 October 2015 at 8:17 pm

      Looking back, it appears they may have split the video up and re-uploaded it…..

    • flatironjoe on 17 October 2015 at 1:15 am

      Looks like they did two versions of this: one for YouTube, and one for WWMC. The YouTube one is short and finishes a simple version of the saw in one episode. The WWMC version is longer, and goes into more detail on each of the steps, and appears to go more into the shaping and such of a “fancier” version, and hence takes multiple episodes.

      • Joe Kaiser on 17 October 2015 at 1:25 am

        ahh ok. that makes sense. I am going to have to re-watch it then 🙂

  5. Mattias Karlsson on 16 October 2015 at 9:38 pm

    What was the name of the rasp maker?


  6. Christophe wloskowicz on 17 October 2015 at 3:58 am

    Thanks Paul for this very interesting video.
    I would like to know where can I buy the blades to frame saw.
    By the way , my grandfather had the frame saw with rotating blades. It was very difficult to sawing.

    • bobeaston on 17 October 2015 at 5:19 pm

      Paul mentioned at 2:02 in the first episode that he is using blades made from breaking up a metal cutting band saw blade, 14 tpi.

  7. Larry Williams on 17 October 2015 at 7:03 am

    Another informative jewel, Paul. Thanks!

  8. johnnyangel on 17 October 2015 at 7:52 am

    Great stuff, and many thanks, but is that really a Tome Feteira rasp? Must say it looks more like an Auriou. Incidentally can’t find price list for Tome Feteira. Any suggestions>


    • Eric Weaver on 17 October 2015 at 8:15 am

      You have to email them for prices.

      • Joe Kaiser on 17 October 2015 at 4:58 pm

        I have Emailed them in the past, and no response.

        • bobeaston on 17 October 2015 at 5:13 pm

          When you don’t get an answer at the manufacturer’s site, do a (Google) search and look for sellers. There are quite a few for Tome Feteria. …, , Amazon, and others.

          • Eric Weaver on 19 October 2015 at 4:58 pm

            Thanks for the rasp sources Bob. I checked AmazonUS and they only have files, no rasps. Of the other two, one has a set of files with one rasp. The other only sells quantities of 6 or 12. Not sure if either ships to the US or how much it would be if they did. Extensive searching for other sources came up with zilch. I did (likely, only says made in Portugal) find their hand cut rasps at Traditionalwoodworker but the prices were about the same as other more noted brands. In short, I don’t think they’re readily available in the US without purchasing a large quantity.

        • barrysutton on 18 October 2015 at 7:02 pm

          I had to email twice before I got a response and then it was to be told that they would only supply in multiples of 12 units. As I am now 60, I declined!

          • Joe Kaiser on 18 October 2015 at 10:22 pm

            after searching online, i couldn’t find anyone who would sell less than 6 units. Oh well, my search for a good rasp continues

          • Colin Williams on 19 October 2015 at 9:19 am

            This is the response I got today.

            Dear Colin,

            thank you very much for your email.

            Min. order quantity: 6 pcs.
            Please inform us if you are interested in those quantities.

            Best regards,
            Cristina Silva
            Customer Service

            Tomé Feteira II, S.A.
            Tel.: (351) 244695103
            Fax: (351) 244695146
            e-mail: [email protected]

        • Peter George on 19 October 2015 at 7:14 pm

          I use these ones that I bought at Lee Valley. I’m not sure where they are made but they work quite well.

          I have the 8 inch round and the 8 inch half round.

          • Eric Weaver on 20 October 2015 at 4:52 pm

            I was curious so I emailed LV. They told me they’re made in the Czech Republic but wouldn’t give out the brand. Most likely Narex. Narex does make rasps.

  9. Eric on 17 October 2015 at 2:31 pm

    What brand of rasp did you mention in this episode?

  10. Günter Schöne Jun. on 17 October 2015 at 6:13 pm

    Beautiful video, Paul.
    Can one of the a small radius (because you have a wood chisel taken) take a Spokeshave with round bottom?

  11. Farred on 18 October 2015 at 1:29 am

    So THAT’S how it’s done. What a versatile saw. I made a small version of the frame saw a while back that takes standard coping saw blades. I love it. What a pleasure to use after years of dealing with the deficiencies of metal coping saws, never tightening quite right, etc.

  12. woodturner on 26 October 2015 at 4:56 pm

    Dear Paul, it seems that this series is still not complete since we have not covered the making of the guard for example. when do you anticipate completing this part?

  13. theojo65 on 26 October 2015 at 8:12 pm

    I would love for a third part to the framesaw that shows how to make the guard and maybe tips for tightening the blade. Your videos are outstanding and I appreciate the knowledge you pack into them Paul.

  14. YrHenSaer on 27 October 2015 at 3:10 pm

    As an alternative maker of hand stitched rasps, Noel Liogier in France produces excellent rasps of all types, including one-offs, plus he also makes a range of floats.

    Not sure about selling outside Europe, but his postage costs are quite reasonable, though be careful of your plastic adding exchange-rate commission for Euros.

  15. António on 27 October 2015 at 5:04 pm

    Thanks for another great video!

  16. Frank Ortega on 30 May 2016 at 2:38 am

    Can some one please take a minute and enlighten me on why Paul would have a “not sharp chisel” on his bench?
    What would it be used for?

    Is it just some sort of wedge?

  17. Kevin O'Brien on 1 November 2016 at 4:59 pm

    Really like the marking two lines tip on the mortise gauge.

  18. joeg on 8 November 2017 at 3:26 am

    Episodes 1 and two on frame saw build cut after 5 or 10 minutes

    • Philip Adams on 8 November 2017 at 4:23 pm

      Hello @joeg,
      They seem to be working for me. Could you email us through the contact us here link below? It is easier for us to follow up that way? Many thanks.

  19. Jeremy Gryctz on 6 November 2018 at 3:53 pm

    For the dimensional lumber, is the standard American 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ (1 x 2) fine vs. the 7/8″ x 1 3/4″ for strength and stability? Otherwise I would have to by 2×2 which is really 1.5 x 1.5″ and rip them down to proportion.


  20. deanbecker on 7 November 2018 at 3:39 am

    i made a couple and used 3/4 oak and had no problems been using one for 3 years for all sorts of sawing

  21. Marek Kožuch on 28 August 2020 at 8:16 am

    Hi, Mr. Sellers. I’ve been watching your videos and articles for a long time. It is admirable what you have accomplished and what you are proving. I have one little piece of information about this video. Since I am from Slovakia, in our country, in the whole of CzechoSlovakia, the czechoslovak company Pilana has been the supplier of various saws for decades. So far, it has been producing saw blades, the pattern of which has not changed for decades. They are not expensive, but I think they are good quality and I am convinced that they are worth a try. I use them and I have no problem with wood. I’m talking about frame saw blades. Marek, Slovakia

  22. Rick Dettinger on 13 November 2020 at 7:34 am

    I would like to know what kind of wood Mr Sellers used in the video to make the saw. I don’t think I heard it mentioned.
    It will help when I go to my lumber store to buy something to make the saw out of. I know that the European saws are likely Beach.


  23. Benoît Van Noten on 13 November 2020 at 10:23 am

    Ulmia make them with steamed beech for the handle and limewood for the stretcher.
    For those sold by Dictum: no indication for the handles; stretcher in cedar.
    E.C.E. ones: with hornbeam stretcher.
    As seen in an old Swiss video: Robinia false acacia for the handles if used on a construction site.

  24. Benoît Van Noten on 13 November 2020 at 11:05 am

    In episode 1, When Paul rounds the end of the stretcher, he says it is oak.

  25. Colin Scowen on 13 November 2020 at 3:03 pm

    The bigger one that he showed, with the thicker blade was made from SPF, so I guess it doesn’t matter too much really.

  26. Ed O'Connor on 11 July 2021 at 4:49 pm

    Paul’s tip about using these saws for cutting metal is a great one. I made a frame saw about 20 years ago, but I was never really happy with the result. I tried it this week with a metal cutting blade and am very pleased with the result. I also made a longer version using Paul’s plan, a bimetal bandsaw blade, and the knuckle joint, which is a great improvement.

    I always used to feel like I was tensioning the frame more than the blade with the standard mortise and relieved tenon. It was a moment of pure joy when I tensioned the saw for the first time and watched it pull tight.

    One note: I used nylon line for the saw I built a decades ago, and it’s still going strong. I used cotton on the frame saw. It can be tensioned enough to work with a thicker bandsaw blade, but not enough for the very thin bimetal bandsaw blade I chose. If over-tensioned, the cotton will break in stages. When overtightened to the point of failure, one strand will fail first but the saw is still usable. If tensioned further, the entire string loop will fail completely, and the saw will fall apart. I switched to nylon and I can tension as much as I want with the thin blades.

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