1. I have wondered about that on previous videos (not yet watched this one).

      Personally I always used the ones with multiple straight cutters emanating from the central point, called “rose head” bits sometimes. It often created multi-sided polygons on the faces and outer edge of my countersunk hole, seemingly due to bad vibration. Experimenting with drill speed and pressure didn’t provide an obvious fix.

      I recently bought a bit that looks like Paul’s, i.e. with a hole diagonally through it, the edge of the hole at the front is very close to the point and acts as a cutter. The rear of the hole acts as an outlet to vent shavings. These are sometimes called “chamfer” countersinks I believe. I’m very pleased with the purchase: it makes a MUCH smoother, and perfectly circular, hole.

      The one I bought was HSS (high speed steel) but unbranded, from a decent highstreet tool shop. I would have preferred a branded one, since I prefer buying quality once, but grabbed this on impulse (tut!).

    2. Hi Andras,

      Paul says:
      The countersink bits I use are actually deburring bits used in metalworking for removing the burrs to holes. Best countersink I ever used, you can get them on eBay for £5 for 3.

      Kind Regards,

  1. ~::-poof-::~
    Yet another reason to favor hand tools over machines 🙂
    At first I thought it was just the battery going out, until it decided all on its own that it didn’t like being a drill, and instead wanted to be an incense burner 😀

  2. I notice Paul is using steel wool to apply the final wax coat. I’ve always heard that steel wool shouldn’t be used with waterborne finishes. Can I assume that this doesn’t create a problem as long as it’s only used for rubbing out the last coat (applying the wax)?

    I did see that Paul was using sandpaper between coats.

    1. I wouldn’t do it. If you get steel fibers in the water born finish or cracks and crevices and later need to make a repair using water born finish, you could have problems. If you never need to bring wet water born materials in contact with the piece again, I suppose it’ll be okay (??), but I wouldn’t want to be in that position when you can just use a different applicator.

  3. A suggestion for gluing and screwing – if you’re like me and find the piece (like the cleat with the glue on it) slides as you attempt to drive the screws and keep the piece from shifting – try dry fitting first – that is, fit the piece into place without the glue, maybe even clamping it. Then undo, add the glue and re-tighten the screws. Not so critical in this case with cleats – as Paul mentions, a little low is OK because it will pull the shelf or top down to it – but often saves a lot of stuffing around later.

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