1. I would like an explanation of the adjustment Paul made to the plow cutter as well. I believe to work correctly the inside corner of the cutting iron has to stand just proud of the guide or skate of the plow. When this isn’t the case, the plane will tend to drift away from the piece (toward the fence). The end result is an inside wall to the groove that is not at 90 degrees (as well as a groove that is wider than you want at the top). I believe I self inflicted this on a myself when I noticed that the blade edge and side of one or my plow irons was not at 90 degrees and I “trued” it up. The plow didn’t work well with my “fixed” iron after this. After lots of searching and reading I think I learned this isn’t correct. I get a similar poor result if I have the iron set and locked in without that tiny bit of the corner of the blade proud of the skate. I may be completely incorrect or speaking to a different issue. This said, I’ve never had an issue with my plow binding in the cut. Early on, however, I had challenges with the inside wall of my groove walking out away from the piece.

        I’d love to get Paul’s explanation of what he was doing!

        1. I asked Paul and his reply is below:

          The plough plane cutting iron always protrudes past the side of the skate by the smallest fraction. without this the plough plane will not cut a perpendicular wall and it is impossible for the blade not to protrude past the face of the skate because the groove is made that fraction deeper to make that happen.

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