Sellers Home Side Cupboard: Episode 6
Posted 23 November 2022
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There are lots of different elements to developing a twist-free door, and each step we take ensures that the doors come out as planned. We chop the mortise holes out first, because we always fit the tenons to the mortise and rarely the mortise to the tenon. As we progress each tenon, we choose different methods of cutting both mortise and tenon to show the options available to us as hand tool enthusiasts. With door making, it’s the small things that matter the most, so we’re hoping that by bringing you in close with the skills of the videographers, you will see exactly what determines the most positive outcome for your doors.
Great! Loved to see how Paul dealt with the split. Also how he used a small wedge to support the back edge while trimming!
Watching you work and correct any problems is so very instructive. Thanks again Paul.
More good content WWMC team – thank you. Just a suggestion, if you include footage of Paul doing something, like at 1.58 to 2.08 (file and grinding the plane iron), it would good to include an explanation of why.
I’m assuming that Paul was grinding a slight relief on the sides of his plow cutter possibly because it may have been binding in the cut at lower depths.
I agree, really good content.
cheers
I would like an explanation of the adjustment Paul made to the plow cutter as well. I believe to work correctly the inside corner of the cutting iron has to stand just proud of the guide or skate of the plow. When this isn’t the case, the plane will tend to drift away from the piece (toward the fence). The end result is an inside wall to the groove that is not at 90 degrees (as well as a groove that is wider than you want at the top). I believe I self inflicted this on a myself when I noticed that the blade edge and side of one or my plow irons was not at 90 degrees and I “trued” it up. The plow didn’t work well with my “fixed” iron after this. After lots of searching and reading I think I learned this isn’t correct. I get a similar poor result if I have the iron set and locked in without that tiny bit of the corner of the blade proud of the skate. I may be completely incorrect or speaking to a different issue. This said, I’ve never had an issue with my plow binding in the cut. Early on, however, I had challenges with the inside wall of my groove walking out away from the piece.
I’d love to get Paul’s explanation of what he was doing!
I asked Paul and his reply is below:
The plough plane cutting iron always protrudes past the side of the skate by the smallest fraction. without this the plough plane will not cut a perpendicular wall and it is impossible for the blade not to protrude past the face of the skate because the groove is made that fraction deeper to make that happen.