Wall Hung Tool Cabinet – episode 10
Posted 27 January 2016
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The next section is the back frame, which holds the main carcass square and solid. Paul lays out the mortice holes and then it is time to plough the groove and cut the mortice and tenons according to the drawings and using the same techniques as the divider panel. With that together Paul measures up and cuts the plywood panel, before checking the whole frame for fit and gluing up.
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Very good tips on making the back panel square. I’ve been using the knife cuts now and it is making a big difference. Keep teaching and I’ll keep trying to learn. Thanks guys.
Coming along nicely, My next project sorted.
Hi Paul
Excellent video as always, some helpful tips in this one.
On a side note, I’ve noticed in your recent videos you’ve been using some new sash clamps. Can I ask who your supplier is for these? Thanks
I think the ones you are referring to are available from Axminster UK here. http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-trade-clamps-sash-clamp-ax945578
They are much better than the ones Paul uses in this video and don’t need the strengthening wood down the middle, but also are more expensive. Ho hum.
That link is to a completely different clamp. Paul talks about his here https://paulsellers.com/2011/11/4473/. The brand can be seen on this video and is Hilka. I can’t find exact equivalents on sale now but the closest Axminster offering would be these http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-trade-clamps-aluminium-sash-clamp-ax945389. I suspect that the attraction of that style (and the Hilkas) is their light weight and the speed of adjustment of the latched head. Mine have steel bars and a pinned head and they are heavy and awkward. However I don’t use them often enough to justify getting the aluminium versions.
Is anyone haveing a pause and then play of the video I have a real problem which they say no one is having!
Have you tried pressing the HD button to get it to play at a lower quality?
Would you be using small blocks of wood to prevent back panel from wobbling and producing that noise (like you did for drawers in tool chest?)
Thanks again, Paul. Not sure why I’m so hesitant to jump into frame and panel joinery. I’ve done grooves, and I’ve hand cut mortise and tenons on table aprons before. Guess it’s time to follow your excellent guidance and just go for it. I still struggle with the usefulness of haunches, but I always use them anyway. Your episode 10 instructions, as always, doesn’t seem to have left anything out.
Thank you for the lesson.
what is the advantage of the frame over rebating plywood (maybe thicker) into the back of the cabinet?
I guess it’s what Paul talked about at the beginning. The frames gives added rigidity to the cabinet. Thick plywood would probably be OK. In fact nothing would be needed if you fixed the cabinet frame directly to a solid wall
George,
The frame, I suspect is there for a couple of reasons – Paul already mentioned when he was discussing the small dividing panel that it was not Strictly necessary, but he said to view the whole piece as a Training Exercise. Also aesthetically, the frame and panel back is more pleasing to the eye, it will be seen when the tool cupboard is open. Paul also said it would be well to think of the tool cupboard as an Apprentice Piece and also as an advertisement for the quality of your workmanship – Hence the frame and panel over solid plywood for the back
what is the advantage of the frame over rebating plywood (maybe thicker) into the back of the cabinet?
Dear all,
we received a couple of comments in reply to slow download. Please, use the comments to comment on the project, any technical issues, please send them directly to:
https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/contact/
Happy woodworking, Resi
What is the hardness of the pencils you use?
Hello Daniel. They are HB no2’s.