Wall Hung Tool Cabinet – episode 10

Wall_Hung_Tool_Cabinet_10

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The next section is the back frame, which holds the main carcass square and solid. Paul lays out the mortice holes and then it is time to plough the groove and cut the mortice and tenons according to the drawings and using the same techniques as the divider panel. With that together Paul measures up and cuts the plywood panel, before checking the whole frame for fit and gluing up.

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18 Comments

  1. stevewales on 27 January 2016 at 3:54 pm

    😉

  2. garyprott on 27 January 2016 at 6:06 pm

    Very good tips on making the back panel square. I’ve been using the knife cuts now and it is making a big difference. Keep teaching and I’ll keep trying to learn. Thanks guys.

  3. jonathanon on 27 January 2016 at 6:13 pm

    Coming along nicely, My next project sorted.

  4. raze599 on 27 January 2016 at 8:44 pm

    Hi Paul

    Excellent video as always, some helpful tips in this one.

    On a side note, I’ve noticed in your recent videos you’ve been using some new sash clamps. Can I ask who your supplier is for these? Thanks

  5. macbass on 28 January 2016 at 12:54 am

    Is anyone haveing a pause and then play of the video I have a real problem which they say no one is having!

  6. moristar on 28 January 2016 at 8:01 am

    Would you be using small blocks of wood to prevent back panel from wobbling and producing that noise (like you did for drawers in tool chest?)

  7. pigiron on 28 January 2016 at 3:56 pm

    Thanks again, Paul. Not sure why I’m so hesitant to jump into frame and panel joinery. I’ve done grooves, and I’ve hand cut mortise and tenons on table aprons before. Guess it’s time to follow your excellent guidance and just go for it. I still struggle with the usefulness of haunches, but I always use them anyway. Your episode 10 instructions, as always, doesn’t seem to have left anything out.

  8. knightlylad on 29 January 2016 at 9:37 pm

    Thank you for the lesson.

  9. GeorgeRountree on 30 January 2016 at 1:22 pm

    what is the advantage of the frame over rebating plywood (maybe thicker) into the back of the cabinet?

    • davedev on 30 January 2016 at 7:13 pm

      I guess it’s what Paul talked about at the beginning. The frames gives added rigidity to the cabinet. Thick plywood would probably be OK. In fact nothing would be needed if you fixed the cabinet frame directly to a solid wall

    • stevewales on 31 January 2016 at 9:27 am

      George,
      The frame, I suspect is there for a couple of reasons – Paul already mentioned when he was discussing the small dividing panel that it was not Strictly necessary, but he said to view the whole piece as a Training Exercise. Also aesthetically, the frame and panel back is more pleasing to the eye, it will be seen when the tool cupboard is open. Paul also said it would be well to think of the tool cupboard as an Apprentice Piece and also as an advertisement for the quality of your workmanship – Hence the frame and panel over solid plywood for the back

  10. GeorgeRountree on 30 January 2016 at 1:22 pm

    what is the advantage of the frame over rebating plywood (maybe thicker) into the back of the cabinet?

  11. Resi Tomat on 1 February 2016 at 12:26 am

    Dear all,

    we received a couple of comments in reply to slow download. Please, use the comments to comment on the project, any technical issues, please send them directly to:

    https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/contact/

    Happy woodworking, Resi

  12. Daniel Agostinelli on 19 December 2017 at 2:24 am

    What is the hardness of the pencils you use?

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