1. I just wanted a rail that would seal off the top cabinet and then an additional rail to close off the drawer enclosures. It is often harder to install wider rails, get the shoulders right and such like that. I felt it was marginally better to just dow it with what I had than laminate or buy in wider stock I suppose.

      1. Ahh, very good. I like that. Seeing all these things you do really helps open up how I approach my woodworking.

        BTW, I have been using Sketchup to draw up plans. I see you prefer to sketch your plans by hand. Would you consider doing a video on how we may approach designing on our own via your methods? How we can get more proficient, what books to consider, etc.

        Thanks for the reply and I hope your move went well,


  1. I noticed Paul did something very clever that I had not seen or read about. before. When he drilled his pilot holes, he drilled from the backside (unseen side) to the front. Hence any “blowout” from the drilling was taken care of my the countersinking. Saves time and the trouble of backing up the drilling with a piece of wood.

  2. Hi Paul, I was curious as to why you chose to have the back overhang by 1/2 inch…is this simply a design element that you chose to incorporate, or is there a specific purpose for the overhang? Thanks!

  3. Am I crazy for noticing that he made two of the chairs from a previous lesson – both with flat tops. Then used them for helping with assembly. Brilliant.

  4. Not super on topic, but worth mentioning:

    I recently read that the polymers in PVA break down in extreme cold. Theoretically this means if you get PVA on your shirt, you could just put it in the freezer for a while, and it should wash out. Never tried it, but it’s a thought nonetheless.

  5. Hi Paul

    Just wanted to ask if there would be any disadvantage to not making a mortise and tenon frame like this but nailing a plywood back into rebates cut along the sides of the main carcass? Thanks

  6. I’ve really enjoyed this series, and have learned a lot from it. However, I’m also really interested in the chest that sits underneath your tool cabinet in the background. From what I can see, the construction is different – the two stiles that the doors are hung from are much wider than a flat board would be, suggesting the sides are actually panels? If so, presumably the sides are not joined to the top and bottom pieces with dovetails?

    The reason I am particularly interested is because I’ve made my kitchen in the shaker face-frame style, using plywood carcasses, with attached face frames made of 40mm wide stock, and the look is very similar to the chest you have in the background. This is in contrast to the cabinet being made in this video, where the stiles of the cabinet are more like 20mm, ie the thickness of the panel.

    I need to make a freestanding chest similar to the one behind you, which matches the looks of my other units, but I am loathe to return to plywood carcasses and pocket screw face frames – I want to progress to more traditional techniques.

    So I’d love to know how you’d go about making that chest!

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