Wall Hung Tool Cabinet – episode 11

Wall_Hung_Tool_Cabinet_11

This is an episode in a paid series. Want to watch it? You just need to sign up as a paid member and you can enjoy this video and many other videos we think you will love.

Paul creates a fill in piece with stub tenons to fit into the space at the bottom of the back panel. Then he removes the haunches at the top of the panel before leveling the panel meeting points with the plane and scraper. Then we’re ready to attach the back to the carcass, making sure to pre drill before screwing on the panel. This completes the main cabinet.

Additional Episodes

Wow! Congratulations for making it this far. A further fifteen videos await you in these subsidiary series. These videos were filmed as part of the Tool Cabinet series and bring the project to completion. We have made them available for free, as they cover some really useful topics.

Making & Fitting a Cornice

Door Making

Shelves

Drawer Making

Posted in ,

18 Comments

  1. stevewales on 3 February 2016 at 4:21 pm

    😉

  2. aintgonnahappen on 3 February 2016 at 10:55 pm

    Hi Paul, why is the bottom back rail made with 2 pieces of wood? I am thinking you just didn’t have any wide enough so you made due? Thanks for the wonderful series! 🙂

    • Paul SellersTeam Member on 5 February 2016 at 12:14 pm

      I just wanted a rail that would seal off the top cabinet and then an additional rail to close off the drawer enclosures. It is often harder to install wider rails, get the shoulders right and such like that. I felt it was marginally better to just dow it with what I had than laminate or buy in wider stock I suppose.

      • aintgonnahappen on 6 February 2016 at 4:13 am

        Ahh, very good. I like that. Seeing all these things you do really helps open up how I approach my woodworking.

        BTW, I have been using Sketchup to draw up plans. I see you prefer to sketch your plans by hand. Would you consider doing a video on how we may approach designing on our own via your methods? How we can get more proficient, what books to consider, etc.

        Thanks for the reply and I hope your move went well,

        Frank

  3. jonathanon on 4 February 2016 at 1:41 am

    That is a really nice cabinet.

    Paul will you be hanging this in your new workshop?

  4. knightlylad on 4 February 2016 at 6:58 pm

    Thank you for the lesson.

  5. Roger Phebey on 4 February 2016 at 7:35 pm

    How do I find this project “Wall Hung Tool Cabinet” and what is the charge?

    • Craig on 4 February 2016 at 9:41 pm

      Roger,
      See the FAQs label at the top of the page?
      Click it.
      Craig

  6. Korneel Valcke on 4 February 2016 at 8:49 pm

    The ease, speed and accuracy of cutting the haunches really made my jaw drop…
    I hope that one day I will have a fraction of that skill 🙂

  7. KevinDHart on 5 February 2016 at 3:34 pm

    I noticed Paul did something very clever that I had not seen or read about. before. When he drilled his pilot holes, he drilled from the backside (unseen side) to the front. Hence any “blowout” from the drilling was taken care of my the countersinking. Saves time and the trouble of backing up the drilling with a piece of wood.

  8. hayes on 7 February 2016 at 2:13 pm

    Hi Paul, I was curious as to why you chose to have the back overhang by 1/2 inch…is this simply a design element that you chose to incorporate, or is there a specific purpose for the overhang? Thanks!

    • stefandingenouts on 19 February 2016 at 9:00 pm

      He did the same with the bookshelf. I think he said it was so the screws had a bit more wood around them for strength. I’ m wondering if this is a common practice in some styles though? I’ve never seen it before.

  9. mikeprutz on 8 February 2016 at 5:22 am

    Am I crazy for noticing that he made two of the chairs from a previous lesson – both with flat tops. Then used them for helping with assembly. Brilliant.

  10. Mooncabbage on 13 February 2016 at 3:37 pm

    Not super on topic, but worth mentioning:

    I recently read that the polymers in PVA break down in extreme cold. Theoretically this means if you get PVA on your shirt, you could just put it in the freezer for a while, and it should wash out. Never tried it, but it’s a thought nonetheless.

    • stefandingenouts on 19 February 2016 at 8:58 pm

      same with gum 🙂

    • David R. on 22 February 2016 at 7:48 pm

      IIRC Paul mentioned in one of the last few episodes, that you can get rid of glue from fabric by applying vinegar to it. Haven’t tried it yet, so use at your own risk. 🙂

  11. raze599 on 11 April 2016 at 4:45 pm

    Hi Paul

    Just wanted to ask if there would be any disadvantage to not making a mortise and tenon frame like this but nailing a plywood back into rebates cut along the sides of the main carcass? Thanks

  12. Tom Davies on 9 November 2017 at 10:22 am

    I’ve really enjoyed this series, and have learned a lot from it. However, I’m also really interested in the chest that sits underneath your tool cabinet in the background. From what I can see, the construction is different – the two stiles that the doors are hung from are much wider than a flat board would be, suggesting the sides are actually panels? If so, presumably the sides are not joined to the top and bottom pieces with dovetails?

    The reason I am particularly interested is because I’ve made my kitchen in the shaker face-frame style, using plywood carcasses, with attached face frames made of 40mm wide stock, and the look is very similar to the chest you have in the background. This is in contrast to the cabinet being made in this video, where the stiles of the cabinet are more like 20mm, ie the thickness of the panel.

    I need to make a freestanding chest similar to the one behind you, which matches the looks of my other units, but I am loathe to return to plywood carcasses and pocket screw face frames – I want to progress to more traditional techniques.

    So I’d love to know how you’d go about making that chest!

Leave a Comment

You must be logged in to post a comment.