Hand Saws

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Viewing 15 posts - 46 through 60 (of 61 total)
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  • #3854
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Never a problem Ken 😉

    #3859
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    juryaan, send him a PM. Best not give your email address out buddy.

    #3860
    Ron Harper
    Participant

    I made a wooden one. Several drawings available on the net. Mine works great

    #3861
    juryaan
    Participant

    thanks for the info Ken.

    Lopik - Netherlands

    #3865
    George Bridgeman
    Participant

    I use a metal one by Paramo. It’s a vintage (1945) piece you can find on eBay every now and again for about £25 or so. I screwed mine to a piece of 2×4 which I then clamp into my bench vise. It holds the saw really tight and works great.

    George.

    "To know and not do is to not know"

    #3880
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    It’s funny you should mention the Paramo saw vise as I have one too 🙂  It’s also the same 1945 model and use it on my tenon saws (Back saws of all sizes).  I tend to prefer using a longer shop made wooden rig for my hand saws.

    #3889
    George Bridgeman
    Participant

    I agree, Gary! The smaller Paramo is a pain for handsaws because you have to keep moving the saw as you sharpen. I may get around to doing the same as you and making a larger wooden one at some point so I can sharpen a 28″ saw without having to shuffle it around!

    George.

    "To know and not do is to not know"

    #3892
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    One very basic set up for hand saws simply involves two 26″ lengths of dressed 4″ x 1-1/2″ timber assembled in the form of a lightweight Moxon vise with 2 coach bolts, washers and wing nuts forming the adjuster.  Contour the underside at each end of the vise to allow for saw handles to clear the vise.  One side of the resulting saw vise forms the head of a T, which in turn can be clamped within a bench vise.

    I don’t like the type Lie Neilsen suggests.

    #3893
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Thanks Gary, good job buddy 😉

     

    #3895
    juryaan
    Participant

    Thanks Gary, for the sketchup drawing

    nice job

    Lopik - Netherlands

    #4660
    juryaan
    Participant

    I have a question about my saw set pliers .

    There are some numbers on the inside of the pliers .

    I have read that those numbers must be the same as the ppi of the saw

    you want to set.

    My question is : my dovetailsaw has 15 ppi but the highest number on the pliers is 12.

    Can i use this on my saw or do i need some other pliers.

     

     

    Lopik - Netherlands

    #4661
    Joseph Sellers
    Keymaster

    Hi Juryaan,

    There is no need for a higher number on the pliers. Paul suggests setting the saw with it at 12 and theme removing most of the set with a hammer. You can view the video here: https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/saw-sharpening/

    Hope this helps.

    #4663
    juryaan
    Participant

    Thank you Joseph,

    I saw the video but didn’t know what the setting was.

    Great video,tried this method on my cheap tenonsaw and it can saw wood again.

    It is not as sharp yet as my new saw but it is already much better than before.

    The biggest problem i have is with the first two inches,in some way i can”t get those as sharp as the rest of the saw.

    Will try again tomorrow.

     

     

     

    Lopik - Netherlands

    #4705
    kelly
    Participant

    In regards to the saw vice question.
    Solid saw chocks simply made
    http://paulsellers.com/2012/06/solid-saw-chocks-simply-made/

    The R Groves saw done
    http://paulsellers.com/2012/02/the-r-groves-saw-done/

    Texas, USA

    #4788
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    I agree set can very readily be adjusted after setting

    Somax produce two saw sets, with one for 4 – 12 tpi and the other for 12 – 26 tpi.  I think I have one somewhere, but tend to use a similar method to Paul’s for refining set after using my Eclipse.

Viewing 15 posts - 46 through 60 (of 61 total)
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