26 November 2012 at 2:32 pm #3854AnonymousInactive
Never a problem Ken 😉26 November 2012 at 2:48 pm #3859AnonymousInactive
juryaan, send him a PM. Best not give your email address out buddy.26 November 2012 at 2:49 pm #3860Ron HarperParticipant
I made a wooden one. Several drawings available on the net. Mine works great26 November 2012 at 2:52 pm #3861
thanks for the info Ken.
Lopik - Netherlands26 November 2012 at 3:12 pm #3865George BridgemanParticipant
I use a metal one by Paramo. It’s a vintage (1945) piece you can find on eBay every now and again for about £25 or so. I screwed mine to a piece of 2×4 which I then clamp into my bench vise. It holds the saw really tight and works great.
"To know and not do is to not know"27 November 2012 at 3:33 am #3880AnonymousInactive
It’s funny you should mention the Paramo saw vise as I have one too 🙂 It’s also the same 1945 model and use it on my tenon saws (Back saws of all sizes). I tend to prefer using a longer shop made wooden rig for my hand saws.27 November 2012 at 8:43 am #3889George BridgemanParticipant
I agree, Gary! The smaller Paramo is a pain for handsaws because you have to keep moving the saw as you sharpen. I may get around to doing the same as you and making a larger wooden one at some point so I can sharpen a 28″ saw without having to shuffle it around!
"To know and not do is to not know"27 November 2012 at 10:08 am #3892AnonymousInactive
One very basic set up for hand saws simply involves two 26″ lengths of dressed 4″ x 1-1/2″ timber assembled in the form of a lightweight Moxon vise with 2 coach bolts, washers and wing nuts forming the adjuster. Contour the underside at each end of the vise to allow for saw handles to clear the vise. One side of the resulting saw vise forms the head of a T, which in turn can be clamped within a bench vise.
I don’t like the type Lie Neilsen suggests.27 November 2012 at 11:09 am #3893AnonymousInactive
Thanks Gary, good job buddy 😉27 November 2012 at 11:29 am #3895
Thanks Gary, for the sketchup drawing
Lopik - Netherlands12 December 2012 at 9:33 pm #4660
I have a question about my saw set pliers .
There are some numbers on the inside of the pliers .
I have read that those numbers must be the same as the ppi of the saw
you want to set.
My question is : my dovetailsaw has 15 ppi but the highest number on the pliers is 12.
Can i use this on my saw or do i need some other pliers.
Lopik - Netherlands12 December 2012 at 9:48 pm #4661Joseph SellersKeymaster
There is no need for a higher number on the pliers. Paul suggests setting the saw with it at 12 and theme removing most of the set with a hammer. You can view the video here: https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/saw-sharpening/
Hope this helps.12 December 2012 at 10:44 pm #4663
Thank you Joseph,
I saw the video but didn’t know what the setting was.
Great video,tried this method on my cheap tenonsaw and it can saw wood again.
It is not as sharp yet as my new saw but it is already much better than before.
The biggest problem i have is with the first two inches,in some way i can”t get those as sharp as the rest of the saw.
Will try again tomorrow.
Lopik - Netherlands13 December 2012 at 4:54 pm #4705kellyParticipant
In regards to the saw vice question.
Solid saw chocks simply made
The R Groves saw done
Texas, USA14 December 2012 at 9:18 am #4788AnonymousInactive
I agree set can very readily be adjusted after setting
Somax produce two saw sets, with one for 4 – 12 tpi and the other for 12 – 26 tpi. I think I have one somewhere, but tend to use a similar method to Paul’s for refining set after using my Eclipse.
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