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Hi Tom
Looks like you did shift things around while marking or you cut the half blinds on the outside of the line… Does your dovetail saw leave approximately that size of a kerf?
I’d guess you plane the rebate on the tail board and cut tails first, so it could very well be marking error (marking knife has 2 bevels like the Stanley Paul uses?)
Just my guessing…
Looks like my first attempt where I had cut out the wrong side of the marked lines….
DiegoI have a York vise (the biggest) and I’m quite happy with it.
I can and do recommend to keep the threads clean from (saw)dust before closing the vise !
If you don’t the half nut that engages the the threads will clog up quite fast..Oh and do mark the bars relative position to the moving jaw, in case you have to take it apart.
Don’t ask me how I know that one…Got mine from fine-tools btw
Diego
Sorry for the late reply… but better late then never.
That chip reflector is only needed when using the tongue cutter as the second skate isn’t used.
Try find a copy of the user manual online.
The flexing is possibly because the 3/16 cutter is a bit bent or the cutter isn’t fully seated on the sloped bed.
On mine the cutters all have some front/back play (for lack of better word) so I have to make sure to install the cutters flat on the back side against the ‘frog’ or that sloped bed. If you can see light while peeking after the cutter through the side of the plane, that’s where your problem is…That and some extra tension on that screw (I use pliers, GENTLY) should do the trick….
Btw my 50 hardly ever leaves its box, it’s really hard to use it for all advertised tasks it can do. That’s why you can find many complete hardly used ones. I only use it for beading nowadays.
The record ploughs are a joy by contrast!
HTH Diego
If I might…
From my experience most store wood is almost square but usually twisted so you can’t really depend on it…
It usually isn’t dry enough either so it might ‘move’ while in your shop/house and do stupid wood tricks.That said, planing seems easy when someone else is doing it but I’m a firm believer anyone can get it right.
For table parts only 2 faces need to be square to each other to get your table together ok. So don’t sweat on it too much.
Set your plane shallow when you’re close and check often for square to see what’s happening. It’s not that hard… After a while you’ll hear Paul’s voice inside your head giving you advice.
😀
DiegoI’ve done something like you describe…
Frame and panel around. M&T joints for all parts of the carcass.
The top is held on like a table top with turnbuttons. The bottom is shiplapped and screwed onto one rail.
Just start drawing, then a scale drawing and some true size details of the important joints will get you there.
I’ve just used the relevant tidbits from Paul’s videos where needed like make a sofa table, door making, door hanging…Diego
- This reply was modified 6 years, 4 months ago by Alien8.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 4 months ago by Alien8.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 4 months ago by Alien8.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.Hi Terry
Welcome to the group! You’re in for an adventure. If you get frustrated about the stuff you’re trying to make, you just need the practice… And a bit of patience. Trying to rush things usually doesn’t help.
Based on my learning curve, you will be able to generate a lot of firewood in the beginning. Hope you have a stove 😜Please do post pics about your high end firestarters, someone will usually chime in with some sound advice.
Have fun !
DiegoMaybe a goose chase but is it possible that the chipbraker iron (which engages the yoke) is too flat?
I’ve had similar problems in the past and found the tip somewhere to bend the chipbraker slightly so the business end and the opposite end are only touching when the blade and chipbreaker aren’t screwed together.
Basically like an arched chipbreaker. Not much, about a 1/32″ or 1/16″ is enough !
Never had problems since…Diego
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