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I think oil would look better (discussed in the ‘finishing’ thread under ‘spoons’) and you could renew the finish easier than with poly, which would likely crack or delaminate over time. Sealing will save the wood from stains and water damage. Most drips will be contained by surface tension on the base of the cup, but you also can carve a lip or moat around the edge, or sand/carve/router down the center to create a taper (like the plates you put under a teacup).
Absorbent coasters are good at preventing dripping from the bottom of the cups when re-lifted, but are usually disposable or washable fabric. Another solution is an uneven surface (eg. carved design or ‘textured’) to capture liquid so when you lift the cup the liquids stay on the coaster.
The space is a bit tight for a large mowing scythe (with new landscape trees as obstacles), and the weeds a mixture of woody stems and grass, but maybe a scythe with a ‘bush blade’ would work. Making the curved handle apparatus would certainly be an advanced woodworking project.
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Mmm hmmm…aright then…I reckon I’ll go get one them Kaiser blades.
(the lady in your video mowed down more in 20 seconds than the string trimmer did in 20 minutes)
I used to have one, from a hardware store, with a tempered serrated steel blade, a bit flimsy. Maybe I can find an old one that can be sharpened.
@Craig – tried those methods. Slowed the invaders down but didn’t stop them.
@Richard – not mattock territory, at least on my side of the line, but plenty of invasive trees on the other side.(Link has a chapter on making a valet’s stand)
More ghastly is hard to imagine, more ghostly, yes. Life can be hard, but I will press on, mostly by folding my coats over the back of a chair until such time as a more civilized option can be imagined.
(also, I did not find the design of which you speak, through no fault of yours, solely my own. I did find a website with enticing photos of perfectly dimensioned walnut and an offer allowing me to purchase an important book. It also came with some associated subroutines that my browser warned me are unsafe. The internet…can’t live with it, can’t kill it.)
“The Shakers avoided ornamentation, so I’d really like to know why the little toes are on the legs.”
The toes helped meet your daughter’s specifications of keeping the legs out of the way of her legs. The footprint of the legs can be reduced because the toes extend their moment arm against the floor.
Nice build. I need to make a large office desk soon and this one has some cool features.
[quote quote=555009]Try googling “valet stand”[/quote]
That’s the ticket. Though they seem to have only one coat holder, possibly for aesthetics or to prevent instability. The design does seem like it could be extended to add more hangers by stepping upward and offsetting them horizontally, but then it starts to get bulky, especially when in use. I guess these traditional designs remained unchanged for a reason.
@Ed +Larry – I’m going to try these tips. Maybe work with the scraper some more (having some sharpening issues as I accidentally bought the 2″ instead of 3″ diamond stone – need to make more sandpaper blocks). The SYP may have been treated but was from the area of the store with all the untreated, need to research that. The construction studs were not treated. I don’t recall how dry they felt but I did use them fairly soon, maybe 2 weeks, after purchasing.
edit: checked the moisture – all wood in the shop give readings of ~12%, the studs in the bench vary by +/-1% and the SYP apron is 12%.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 2 months ago by Brian A.
“Brian, I’m a little concerned about the wax on the bench top as well, since it’s already pretty slick from just planing. I’m thinking that I’m going to sand to 100 grit and use just a BLO/turpentine mix without the wax on the bench top. It can always be added later.
Jim”
That sounds like a good temporary plan. All my bench plans are temporary it seems. I may not even need the 100 grit since my planing has already left some of the boards a bit scruffy (the latter being theorized upon in a different thread currently).
@P McC
“So I gave up on trying to make the benchtop as smooth as a dining room table and began using it for its intended purpose. Woodworking.”
But what if I want to entertain on the bench as well? (joking)
Yes, point taken. Its a bench. If part of it is fuzzy, I can simply focus my gaze on some more aesthetically pleasing part of the garage; perhaps the pile of christmas decorations accumulating in a large pile the corner behind the car?
I also found the Orange or Blue store SYP to be pretty wet. I planed it, then stored it a few weeks, then planed it again. Still not perfectly flat on the face, but the edge at the benchtop is nice and smooth. I noticed that Chris Schwartz has a thing for wet wood benchtops currently. Not many details, but the gist is to just install a wet slab and keep planing it once and a while as it stabilizes. This may apply to the wet SYP.
Yes, these are good ideas. Maybe I need to get the blade(s) sharper. The white wood is VERY soft, but most of the boards are shaving nicely with a good sheen on them. The ones giving me problems are actually darker for some reason, more reddish/brown. Seems like some aspect of tree anatomy may be at play here.
I made the apron out of yellow pine and it planed nicely and is quite hard compared to the white wood, maybe even harder than poplar which I had as the top earlier.
Thanks for tracking that down. I know he’s talked about finishes a number of times but I don’t retain all the information. I didn’t find the MSDS for Ronseal but it looks fairly safe since they just say to wash your hands if it gets on you and nothing about ventilation, and yeah, not likely found in the US. I have some sort of ‘danish oil’ from the Orange store but after getting it home and reading the tiny warning text it seems to have the same old nasty V.O.C.s in it as most Minwax oil-based stuff, requiring cross-ventilation etc. I’m remaking the top. Already finished the base earlier with just BLO and a coat of beeswax, and that has held up fine, but I don’t want wax on the benchtop as I think it might be too slippery.
Mixing in the wax and oil like Jim is doing sounds interesting (as does the European Beech, cool! Mine is construction studs – Douglas Fir probably). Maybe as a mixture it will form less of a slippery topcoat and more penetrating?
There is a search function (the magnifying glass in the upper right). I’ve found the method somewhat circuitous, but you can use it to find a post related to your search term. You can then use the title of the thread that the post was listed under to go back to the forum and search for that thread manually.
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