Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
The dreaded post squaring movement. Some woods will always just move a round any time the stress changes alot. One of the ways to tackle this in the prep stages. For example if you need to resaw the piece, start with the resaw leaving things thick since you know it is going to move. When working with a piece a peices that will need a 1/4 in or more off the second face after the reference face is flat but not enough to resaw, I will flatten the reference, then just flatten the second face but not to thickness. Let it sit over night or even a week, then reflatten if needed. After that work evenly from both sides till I hit thickness.
Probably already well in to the project now, but, 2×12 are just fine. I use a lot of 2x construction material for building. There are things you have to do with it though to make it work. When selection stock get it as straight and twist free as possible, find stuff will minimal knots, avoid pith boards, and as dry as you can find. 2x’s are often barely dried and case hardened so you have to plan on drying time, cutting thick and planning out twist/cup.
I find them to be great cheapish practice for doing resawing and stock prep for rough cut timber.
” I have tried out western style hand saws and they do not jive with me for some reason I never feel comfortable and relaxed using them. I have tried out western style hand saws and they do not jive with me for some reason I never feel comfortable and relaxed using them” This, this is the only right reason to choose one type of saw over the other. I am the opposite, western work better for me.
Semi-Mandatory on Chris’s design, fully mandatory on a simple top like Paul’s. If you are making it for live indoors, I would run a slight rebate in the lid so that when it close it is just recess a bit into the trunk. This will help create the seal both for dusty and “climate control”. One of the reasons a trunk helps reduce rusting is the will fitted lid seal. It slows temperature change down enough in the chest to help prevent “sweating” on metal tools. This means less chance of the tools rusting.
I just keep these marked in my order lists, 20 extrude brass hinges, and get an oder when every the price drops. The cost ranges from $19 to $100 US. When you buy at the low end it is a dollar a hinge for solid brass hinges and screws.
- This reply was modified 3 years, 1 month ago by ehisey.
A pine joiners tool box is out of pine is going to be near bullet proof and light weight which makes it good around the shop. You don’t want much in the way of extra weight in the chest. I used Sassaphras for my carcass and Cedar for my tills since it will live in a shop that is not bug tight and both woods are insect and rot resistant with out alot of weight.
The counter dovetails in the cracass and skirting make a really strong frame. If you don’t go for pine, I would go a wood you can except getting dingged as it likely will carrying sharp heavy tools around.
As has been said already, Zinser needs to be cut. I was not having the best results with it in the beginning but discovered that cutting it at a ratio of one to one makes it super workable. If you are doing a quicky project it might work to just cut it 2 to 1 instead of 1 to 1.
To correct one idea, the Sealcoat is a topcoat product also as it is just a basic shellac. The Sealcoat name is marketing things. That is one of the my personal favorite things about shellac, under coat top coat, middle coat, it just works at all levels.
@sojansson Thanks for that link. The entire line of Grandsfors have a right proper profile.
-
AuthorPosts