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thats a pretty large desk, should make a nice craft area for her. For that size unless there is a table apron around the perimeter, I would probably add battens underneath to keep it flat. Breadboard ends would work well too, but a lot more work for a craft table.
I have a small space compared to some, but I like it and honestly don’t really feel in want of anything. There are plenty of improvements, cabinets, tills, etc that I plan to make over time. Heck those 2×4 shelves were just supposed to be temporary, but 10 months later….lol. Its just the extended side of my garage. still fit two cars in there and I dont usually even back out my car when woodworking.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 9 months ago by fjhall.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.I started the same as you with the book working wood 1 &2. I built a bench as my first ever project with hand tools. It was a heck of an undertaking for someone who had never used a hand plane, chopped a mortise, cut a tenon. The bench was far from perfect but works and I still have and use it.
When you start working wood, sharpening will be a part of every single project.. before, during, and after. With my first project (workbench) I kept making the mistake of my plane would stop cutting so I would advance the blade further (is this a common newbie mistake?) and you learn that when the plane isnt working, sharpen.
You could just get a norton combination stone and make a strop on a 2×4 with leather and green compund if you dont want to spend the money on diamond stones like paul uses.
I jumped into the deep end the same way as you. It was not a dive, more like a cannonball. But you learn and improve. Mistakes will be made. Hope this helps!
- This reply was modified 6 years, 9 months ago by fjhall.
Paul, appreciate the comment! I used 3 coats of a 2# cut of blonde shellac and then paste wax. The base and underside just got 2 coats of shellac. Im generally not a huge fan of heavily built up finishes, my preference is to get enough coats to look even and smooth and stop there.
[quote quote=313702]“Are you planning a kitchen/dining table or desk?”
Desk. It’s for my daughter and needs to be nock-down, so the idea is to make the stretcher with long through tenons with substantial shoulders and then use wedges to allow it to be disassembled. So, there would be two leg assemblies, the stretcher, and the top. I have some scrap 2×12 construction softwood that I’ll probably use and it will just be a prototype for now.
I’m guessing the vertical columns on your legs go up to horizontal pieces (similar to the feet, but flat) that attach to the table? Is that correct? Did you just screw those to the table through elongated holes and there’s no apron? That’s what I was hoping to do to keep the weight down. Very minimal.
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Yes both sides were basically formed into an “I” for the basic frame. The top and bottom are identical and joined by the vertical board.
You could absolutely screw to the top through elongated holes, but I personally just made some quick turnbuttons using the off-cuts from tenon shoulders and have elongated mortises on the inside of the upper bearers.Thanks for the comments!
Ed- for the trestle stretcher I wanted it at approx knee height so that when I extend my knees my feet can touch the wall without my shins being stopped by hitting the board. I just eyeballed the placement somewhere between the middle and the top that I thought looked OK. Mine could have gone up another inch or two, but i am fine with it.
You will have to keep us updated when you build your table with some pics! Are you planning a kitchen/dining table or desk?
Yes I was able to plane it. The cherry had reversing grain all over it so before I assembled, I went over each piece with a sharp and close set cap iron smoothing plane. I scraped on two glue lines on the top because there was a slight hollow that made my smoothing plane unable to catch it.
Personally I have always have tear out in the recesses when in soft wood like pine. When I try to take as many flips and chops as possible then I end up with just a small bit of tear out right in the center. Hard wood I dont get tear out unless I hit too hard with the hammer and the woods pops out prematurely.
If it were me I would just use some sandpaper and fingertips to smooth it a bit and then put on the finish. I think it will be pretty smooth with a couple coats of finish.
Sharp plane would work too, but that last pic looks like you would have a good bit to remove if you go that route, which is why I’d just sand it.. Here is a box I made almost 2 yrs ago with a knot that is right off the plane with a close set cap iron. This was before applying shellac
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